Before we start, the arm on the rudder post (tiller), was designed to be on the right side of the post. Make sure that the end of the tiller clears the right side wall as it swings through its arch. If not, trim a little off the tiller end to help it clear without rubbing.
What the ???? It is possible to put the tiller on upside down so the tiller points to the left side, but normally the rubber grommet that it passes through will bind more if it is on the wrong side. So if you want to be a “lefty”, make sure that it moves through the rubber grommet smoothly without jamming the grommet too far to one side. AND, always mount the tiller with the screw facing to the rear.
These instructions will guide you through centering the rudder to the radio system. There are three adjustments to make, but once made, should not ever need to be changed.
1 – Servo end of system. On the forward end of the steering p/p-rod, you will find an arm (servo horn) which attaches to the steering servo . Using a small Phillips head screwdriver, remove the screw, and work the arm off the steering servo post.
Turn “On” the transmitter and then the boat switch. Make sure that the transmitter “fine tune” adjustment (slider button below the right stick on transmitter) is in the middle. Move the transmitter right-stick left and right a couple of times, and then release allowing the servo to come to rest in the middle of its range.
Reinstall the horn onto the steering servo so that the arm is pointed straight to the left (when viewing boat from the back). Again, fit it on the post of the servo so that it is perpendicular to the centerline of the boat, pointing to the left.
2 – Tiller to rudder post attachment. You will note that the rudder has a flat spot ground into the rudder post. Loosen the screw and make sure that the orientation of the tiller has the screw directly into the flat.
3 – Adjust length of p/p rod. Leave the radio system “On”. View the boat from the rear and determine if the rudder is in the same plane as the keel fin. If it is not aligned, follow the next few steps.
Note: When you remove the set screw, the rudder is likely to drop out of the boat. If you have a boat with a brass (metal) tube through which the rudder post mounts, it should be lubricated. Vaseline is fine. You do not need to lubricate the rudder post if you have the new black plastic tube installed in your boat.
If the rudder is cocked one way or the other, make note of whether the rod needs to be shortened or lengthened to bring the rudder back to center. For instance, if you have the tiller mounted, as advised, on the right side of the rudder post, AND the rudder trailing edge is on the left side, then the rod needs to be shortened, and vice versa. Turning the tiller/clevis clockwise as viewed from the rear, will shorten the rod and vice versa.
How much to adjust is by trial and error. Remove the tiller from the rudder post by slacking the screw. In our example with the rudder trailing edge to the left, we need to shorten the rod. Leaving the tiller attached to the rod clevis, simply turn the tiller clockwise two-three turns and then reattach to the rudder post to see how much you moved the rudder. Repeat this procedure until you have the rudder centered.
Remember to leave the radio system “On” while doing this adjustment.
That’s it. As long as you always center the tiller screw on the flat in the rudder post, your rudder should always be centered. When sailing, if you want to make a correction to “center”, you have the “fine-tune” slider below the steering stick as a fine tune.