RC Laser ~ It’s Unique!

I know, I know – sounds like a little smoke, maybe even a few mirrors – but one thing you will find out right up front ~ we tell it like it is.

We will TRY to be humble, but we ask YOU to compare feature for feature against any other RC sailboat. If you don’t see just how unique this boat is, let us explain.

Unique – adj. 1. existing as the only one of a kind. 2. having no equal; unparalleled. That is what Webster says.

The unique qualities of the RC Laser stem from the brilliant production design by Jon Elmaleh. He wanted a boat that would perform well, and be easy for the owner to enjoy, no matter what the boat was asked to do.

Poly Hull  The choice of the polyethylene hull has produced the most remarkable owner benefit of all. And yes, it is unique, as not one other model sailboat in the world is produced using this material.

Cost  Using poly material means the boat could be uniformly mass-produced in one homogeneous piece using a blow molding system. The reason others don’t copy this process is because of the high expense of building the molds. HOWEVER, once done, the resulting value is head and shoulders above all the rest. It is the main reason why no other ready-to-sail 42″” model sailboat is available for such a low cost.

Durability  The poly hull has written the book on durability. Not only is the boat indestructible on the water, it is unbelievably resistant to damage when being handled or transported ashore. No other boat would dare be checked as baggage on a commercial airliner packed only in a soft, zippered bag! Now think about that – if the boat can take that kind of punishment, how bulletproof is it in the hands of the kids, or thrown below on your big boat, or stored in the motor home.

One Piece and Watertight  The RC Laser is molded (deck and hull) in one piece. Except for a 1/16″ hole in the transom, used for pressure equalization, the boat is completely watertight. And, yes, it is hollow.

Electronics Compartment  The engineering jewel of this boat is the electronics compartment. We have all fought with different ways to keep electronics dry, but this boat took the effort to a new level. When the boat is molded, it has a “cockpit”” molded into the deck. A well-designed deck plate is then permanently sealed over this cockpit. The result is the driest, most accessible electronics area in any RC boat. Only those that operate RC equipment around water understand just how important this is – especially when sailed in salt water.

Mr. Peanut  Yes, it is a source of gentle ribbing that the cockpit hatch (entry through the deck plate) is remarkably similar to the plastic cap found on a peanut can. The male section of the hatch, which is molded as a 1″ “tower” in the deck plate, ensures a positive snap shut hatch that is very easy to open and close, while being the tightest, most reliable, seal of any hatch in model sailing. It may not be the most aesthetically pleasing hatch, but owners really don’t care – it works so well.

Servo Installation  The RC Laser control system is truly unique. Above deck “clothes line” type sail control lines are not uncommon, but attaching the servos to the underside of the deck plate with molded posts, is truly ingenious. Each servo has standard 4-hole mounting flanges. However, instead of screwing them to supports like other boats do, we have four posts molded to the underside of the deck plate. Simply slide the servo up onto the four tapered posts until it seats against the beveled deck exit hole, and then jam the supplied rubber block between the bottom of the servo and the cockpit floor. Voila! To remove the servo, pull out the block, and the servo drops right out.

Steering  Basic steering is true to the full sized Laser with an outboard rudder. But that is where similarity stops. A tiller is mounted on the aft deck with a pivot point directly above the rudder gudgeon. The gudgeon is molded into the bottom of the hull right at the transom. The pintle on the rudder fits up into the gudgeon and at the same time the two upper prongs snap up into the tiller. Rods connect the yoke of the tiller to the servo yoke for simple, but accurate control. How how ingenious! Snap, it’s mounted and ready to go.

Keel Installation  The RC Laser is ballasted by 4 # of lead, on a molded 16″ long keel fin. The top of the keel fin fits up from the bottom through a keel trunk that goes completely through to the deck. On the top of the keel fin is a wing lock that turns 90 degrees to snap into place on the deck to hold the keel firmly in the boat. Snap, it’s in – snap, it’s out!

Maststep ”That mast is coming outta there when I roll out”, I thought to myself the first time I saw the mast step. How WRONG could I be. But I am often asked about this simple step and its ultimate ability to carry, and keep, the rig in the boat. Remember, I told you that the hull and deck are completely watertight, so how about the mast step???

First, the well for the maststep is molded into the deck. To give it the guts to support an unstayed mast, the bottom of the well is fused, in the molding process, to the bottom of the hull.

The mast step itself is a molded piece of hard plastic with a hole in the middle to support the mast, and allow it to turn freely. The mast step fitting is a press fit into the well. This design is so sound, that we have never had a mast step failure – never!

But what keeps the mast in the hole during a pitchpole or roll out? Who knows? But trust me, I have done it all, and more than once, and I have never seen a mast leave the step under any sailing condition. The only downside is that the boat cannot be lifted from the water by the mast!

Boom Vang  No performance sailor would be caught dead without a boom vang to control sail shape – right? Well the RC Laser doesn’t have one! Instead, it has a rigid gooseneck and a very strong aluminum boom, which performs the role of boom vang to a T (or is that an L).

The vertical part of the gooseneck fitting surrounds, and is glued to, the tapered fiberglass mast. The boom fits snugly into the horizontal part of the gooseneck and is kept in place by the outhaul tension. The “web” on the gooseneck fitting does not allow any flex of the fitting. Consequently, the boom is “vanged” by the rigid gooseneck and because the mast is free to turn in the maststep, the boom actually turns the mast as the sail is trimmed. And tough – I have a box full of spare gooseneck fittings but have never had to replace one yet!

Freestanding Rig  Ahhhh, the simplicity and power of the bendy mast. Certainly, the bendy mast sail system is widely acclaimed for its high performance. However, in the last 30 years or so, technology has helped produce higher performance freestanding masts – masts that do not need stays to hold them up. The two-piece mast in the RC Laser is a masterful piece of work – with the strength that allows you to sail in impossible winds, and the flexibility to drive the boat through the puffs with the grace of a swan.

The RC Laser mast is not just a tube but a carefully produced, tapered fiberglass, two-piece mast. It is unique in the model sailing world.

Sail Design  The authorized sails for the RC Laser are all single panel sails, made to one plan, by one manufacturer. So what’s so cool about that???

Material  Sure it looks like Rice Paper – but it wears like iron. The material is best likened to a material that you see used in express envelopes. You know, the ones you absolutely can’t rip open!! It is actually polyester film laminated to polyester tissue. A brand name for this polyester film is Mylar®. The leech of the sail is two pieces of this material bonded together to form a leech that will not fray nor stretch.

The unique result – a sail that will never tear, mildew, or lose its shape. Unless your dog eats it, you will likely never need a new sail.

Design  It’s all in the luff round. Anyone that has designed sails for a bendy mast will tell you that it is no easy task to get the sail to fit the mast when the mast is bending all over the place. That effort becomes even more pronounced when you bring it down to the size of a 42″ boat. To make it work on the RC Laser, the sleeve that goes over the mast is relatively deep (fore and aft). When there isn’t much wind, the mast is standing up straight inside the sleeve. If you look closely you will notice that the sail extends well in front of the mast about half way up. In this case, the luff round is touching the mast at the head and the foot only, causing the “round” arch forward of the mast. Even though it looks a little strange, the stiffness of the sail allows this “leading edge of the wing” to be very effective.

As the wind picks up, the mast begins to bend and eventually fits right along the precut luff round of the sail! Coooool! Unique?? You bet!

Conclusion Is there any wonder why the RC Laser is earning the respect of more and more sailors every day.

Terrific engineering, unmatched material toughness, and a commitment to mass production, produces a boat like no other in the world – affordable, transportable, simple, performance based, and FUN!

It is a truly UNIQUE model boat!

 
Post Tagged with “laser sailboat”, “nirvana radio”, “radio controlled sailboats”, “rc laser sailboat”, “rc laser”, “rc sailboat”, “rc sailboats”, “rc sailing”, “sailboat drawing”, seawind

RC Laser – RTS Version

$585.00

The finest one-design RC sailboat in the world. Over 9,000 sold in North America alone…

For a limited time, we are offering free shipping for the RC Laser to any address in the continental US via UPS Ground.

SKU: LRTS
Posted in RC Laser.
Tagged as hobby, rc laser, retirement, sailboat, sailing.

Product Description

The standard RC Laser package is ready to sail in less than 5 minutes.

Included in the standard boat are the following parts:

Hull – blow molded polypropylene, one part (not sandwiched together). Virtually indestructible.

Standard Mast (for B, C, D Sails) – Two-part, tapered, composite, free-standing mast with fixed gooseneck attached.

Standard Boom (also called the “long” boom used for A sail and B sail) – supplied with three adjusters for trimming the sail and attaching the mainsheet.

B Sail – This is the mid range sail good for sailing in winds up to 20 mph.

Keel – A molded keel fin with lead ballast attached. Comes with a plastic fairing shield installed over lead. A wing-lock fitting at top of the fin provides easy through-boat installation in a snap!

Rudder – molded with integral prongs that snap into the tiller to hold in place. Pintle and gudgeon for outboard mounting.

Boat Stand – Used for displaying boat ~ not for use outside in the wind.

Carry/Storage Bag – This custom bag has a pocket for each boat part, including the transmitter. It is made of heavy grade nylon material with a full zipper. Includes shoulder and hand-carry straps.

Electronics – All boats come with class-approved steering and sail servos installed, a battery holder, and a wire harness with on-deck switch.

Radio Equipment – the RTS (ready-to-sail) version comes with a 2.4 ghz transmitter and installed receiver. The PNP version does not include a transmitter and receiver, so you can use your own.

Not included: 12 AA batteries that will power the boat and radio equipment for 5-6 hours.

 

We are always asked, “What else do I need?”. So we have made up three specially-priced packages based on how you intend to use your boat.

  • RC Laser Recreational Package $65.00 Add to cart

Recreational Package: For those that intend to use your boat for the sheer relaxation of sailing across the pond. You are not interested in racing for the time being.

This package includes our failsafe Recharge System to make sure your batteries are always fully charged and ready for your next sail. Included is a special charger that charges a custom battery pack for the boat, AND the batteries in the transmitter all ~ at the same time ~ and then drops off to a trickle charge to keep the batteries topped-up until your next sail. No need to remove any batteries from the boat or the transmitter!!

The other item included is Speed Clips. These stainless-steel clips make rigging the boat a snap, giving you a durable double-cross clip that cannot accidentally pull apart.

 

  • RC Laser Club Competitive Package $189.00 Add to cart

Club Competitive: This package is for those of you that want to compete at the local level. It provides what we recommend to all of our local fleets.

This package includes the Recreational Package, above, plus a couple more items to ready your boat for local racing (or just more options for sailing in different velocities of winds.

Additional sails – Included is the largest sail (A) for light wind sailing, with its special 14” taller mast. You also get the smaller C Sail for when the wind really picks up. (The standard boat comes with the B sail for medium winds) If you are sailing with the gang up at the lake, you will want to be competitive and this set of sails does just that. Everyone will be impressed when you pull out a sail to match the current wind …

 

  • RC Laser National Competitive Package $379.00 Add to cart

National Competitive: If you aspire to travel to compete in our many regional and national level regattas, you need to be prepared for anything. Changing sails is something that you need to do quickly between races – so here is the most popular set-up.

This package includes both Recreational and Club Competitive packages above, plus:

D Sail (the smallest sail available for when it blows like H___!

Extra Spars – To change sails quickly, you want each sail rigged on its own mast and boom. So you get an additional long boom for the A sail, and two short booms for the C and D sail. Plus we add two extra masts for the C and D sail.

Sail Bag – And last you need something to carry and protect all four rigged sails. Our sail bag is custom made with four compartments, one for each sail rig. The heavy outside cover has a zipper base for access, and a shoulder strap for carrying.

Buying in quantity makes a difference with SailRC. Get together with friends, community or marina to buy a higher quantity and receive greater savings. All must ship at the same time to the same address using a single payment.

Quantity Price Per Boat Savings per Boat
1 $585
2-3 $562 $23
4-7 $526 $59
8+ $480 $105

Features:

  • Hull and deck molded in one piece polypropylene
  • Mast is tapered fiberglass composite, two piece
  • Sail is sleeved to slide over the mast. Sail is made of non-woven polyester composite film
  • Mast is stepped into a non-captive deck step that allows mast to swivel. There is no standing rigging
  • Gooseneck fitting is fixed so boom vang is not necessary
  • Keel and rudder snap in and out in an instant – no tools
  • Easy access to radio compartment via snap-lid port
  • Easy to adjust stainless outhaul sliders on boom
  • All parts are interchangeable and inexpensive to replace
  • Full On Board electronics to include class approved servos for sail and steering
  • Two channel AM Radio system (drum sail winch, steering servo installed)
  • Batteries not included – requires 8 or 12 ea AA batteries, either alkaline or rechargeable
  • Boat is corrosion resistant and salt water safe

Below are the specifications of this terrific model. There are many more articles on the Skippers Log about this remarkable RC sailboat as well.

Specifications:

Length Deck 41.5″
Length Waterline 37.75″
Beam 13.5″
Draft 17″
Main Hoist 50″
Mast top above deck 54″
Bottom of keel to top of mast 73″
Sail Area
A 949 sq. in.
B 710 sq. in.
C 600 sq. in.
D 525 sq. in.
Displacement 9 lbs.

SailRC

First, and foremost, we stand behind the products that we sell and service. The way we do that tells a lot about our company ethic and unending desire to serve our customers.

POLICIES

Satisfaction Guarantee

Your satisfaction is guaranteed. If you are not satisfied with any product purchased directly from SailRC, please return it for a refund based on the following terms:

  • Product must be returned (ship date) within 30 days of original receipt of product.
  • Product must be in resalable condition. That includes repacking of all parts in original packing, as originally packed, with complete paperwork included, and with no indication of use.
  • Shipping costs are not refundable.
  • Return shipping damage is the responsibility of the returning customer.
  • Restocking fee – 10% of cost of goods

~~~~~~~~~~~~

Warranty

SailRC is NOT the manufacturer of any product we sell. Therefore, we do not carry the ultimate responsibility for the warranty. However, we do everything possible to insure that you get prompt and fair service.

Specifically – we want you to contact us first with any product question or problem – see Contact Page. Steve will arrange a phone call to move quickly through your issue and provide exact instructions.

SailRC may intervene between you and the manufacturer if we have a warranty support arrangement with that manufacturer.

Warranty Statement: Warranty on products sold and shipped by SailRC covers failure of any part that is caused by defect in workmanship or materials when the product is used as intended*.

*Use as intended Model boats and boat equipment are intended to sail on water. They are not intended to withstand collisions with each other or any other obstruction. Electronics are not intended to get wet!

What is not covered Damage caused by misuse, abuse, improper care, accident, modification, shipping, wear and tear, or repair by anyone other than the manufacturer or their representative. Damage to metal parts due to use in salt water.

Warranty Fine Print

Registration & Proof of Purchase Proof of purchase is critical to a warranty claim. Please register your boat with SailRC within one month of purchase and keep your original receipt.

Electronics SailRC is not a warranty service station for any electronics company. We are pretty good at troubleshooting most of our electronics but even we have a hard time keeping up with new technology. We will troubleshoot your issue on the phone and if we cannot resolve your issue, we will send you directly to a manufacturer’s service rep to get a resolution (either repair or replacement). We will NOT be sending you overseas to any manufacturer – all service centers we use are in the US!

Shipping Damage All items shipped by SailRC are insured for full value. If your boat, or accessories, are damaged during shipping from us to you, it is important to contact SailRC immediately for claims processing.

Important If something is damaged in shipping, most of the time the outside box shows evidence of rough handling. We need pictures of damage to the box.

Again, we are not responsible for damage in shipping but we facilitate getting a resolution in your favor.

Warranty Shipping – The customer is responsible for all costs of shipping a warranty item to and from a warranty station.

No Return If a part fails, many times we can made a decision based on your photograph sent via email. In this case, we may avoid having to return the broken part for review. So take good pictures and send

Replacement Parts Any shipping involved with warranty parts is paid by the owner.

If SailRC ships a warranty replacement part before a faulty part is returned to SailRC, or the manufacturer, the owner will be charged for the replacement. When the part is properly returned and deemed replaceable under warranty, then a credit will be issued to owner’s credit card.

Term We do not set the term of warranty service on our products but we sometimes offer extended warranty coverage. Below are just some of the warranty terms for the products we handle.

RC Laser Out There Technologies (OTT), a US company, produces the RC Laser and warrants each new boat for six months from the verified date of purchase. In North America, SailRC manages all RC Laser warranty services.

If you have any questions about anything on this page, please email us.

Nirvana Ready To Sail – Blue

$299.00

Nirvana has a huge history in club sailing in the US. Since the first introduction in 2003, it has been a “best buy” as attributed to over 12,000 Nirvanas being sold in the US to date.

In 2012, the Nirvana Class held their first national championships bringing Nirvana racing to the “bigs.” What this means is Nirvana has what it takes – excellent scale “looks,” a great well-proportioned design that produces agile and powerful performance, and the forgiving durability of well-made and assembled parts.

Ready to Sail means this boat comes with all electronics including the radio transmitter and receiver. All you need is batteries.

Make sure to read the specifications and description below and the “See Trial” article in the Skipper’s Log.

For a limited time, we are offering free shipping to any address in the continental US via UPS Ground.

Nirvana is available in three hull colors: Blue, Red and Yellow. 

SKU: NMTBLU
Posted in Nirvana, The Nirvana.
Tagged as nirvana, nirvana, Nirvana II, Nirvana RC Sailboat, RC sailboat, RC sailing, sailboat.

After a short hiatus, the Nirvana is back. Yep, this is the same Nirvana that was first produced in 2003, and that has enjoyed huge popularity in the US.

The new version of Nirvana has some very subtle tweaks, most would be unnoticeable to the average sailor. Certainly, this 2014 version is class legal for racing and still maintains her scale good looks. Even though there was a period when this boat was dubbed Nirvana II, she is simply referred to today as Nirvana.

Nirvana remains a value leader with a great design and “big boat” look, as well as remarkable race-course performance. Nirvana is a true one-design boat. This means that Nirvanas are never obsoleted by newer production. All parts remain interchangeable.

Yes, we have attended to a couple of troublesome parts that seemed to break in rough weather or severe racing conditions. These parts we re-formulated so they are much stronger.

This 32” model is produced to look like a real sailboat, from the extremely durable polyester sails to the look of her cabin trunk. Also note the deep fin keel with lead bulb that allows this boat to sail well in high winds (up to 22 mph). No other model in this category can come close in performance or appearance. This model will not capsize.

The rig, keel, and rudder are all quick release so the boat may be reduced to an easy-to-carry package in a moment. When displayed on her boat stand (included), she is 32” long, 64” high (bottom of keel to top of mast), and nearly 8” wide. Nirvana is available in three colors. Only 12 AA batteries are needed to sail this boat for up to 5 hours.

You will absolutely love this boat whether you display on your mantle or race it in your club fleet – or both! Make sure to read my current Nirvana “See Trial” posted now on the Skipper’s log.

  • 32” Long, Ready-to-Sail, not a kit
  • All electronics included and installed
  • “Quik rig” system allows quick and easy unrigging
  • Polyester sails that will not stretch, tear, or mildew
  • Self-righting, lead ballasted deep keel
  • Inexpensive interchangeable parts
  • Includes display stand

Buying in quantity makes a difference with SailRC. Get together with friends, community or marina to buy a higher quantity and receive greater savings. All must ship at the same time to the same address using a single payment.

Quantity Price Per Boat Savings per Boat
1 $299
2-3 $272 $27
4-7 $244  $55
8+ $231  $68

Hull
Length overall: 32 inches

Height
Bottom of keel to top of mast: 64 inches

Beam
maximum width: 7.75 inches

Weight
Sailing weight w/batteries: 5.5 pounds

Draft
Depth of water needed to sail: 13″

Sail Area
Total of main and jib: 525 square inches

For more expanded information on the features of the Nirvana, check out a couple of articles:

  • Features
  • Nirvana Class International Racing Rule

First, and foremost, we stand behind the products that we sell and service. The way we do that tells a lot about our company ethic and unending desire to serve our customers.

POLICIES

Satisfaction Guarantee

Your satisfaction is guaranteed. If you are not satisfied with any product purchased directly from SailRC, please return it for a refund based on the following terms:

  • Product must be returned (ship date) within 30 days of original receipt of product.
  • Product must be in resalable condition. That includes repacking of all parts in original packing, as originally packed, with complete paperwork included, and with no indication of use.
  • Shipping costs are not refundable.
  • Return shipping damage is the responsibility of the returning customer.
  • Restocking fee – 10% of cost of goods

~~~~~~~~~~~~

Warranty

SailRC is NOT the manufacturer of any product we sell. Therefore, we do not carry the ultimate responsibility for the warranty. However, we do everything possible to insure that you get prompt and fair service.

Specifically – we want you to contact us first with any product question or problem – see Contact Page. Steve will arrange a phone call to move quickly through your issue and provide exact instructions.

SailRC may intervene between you and the manufacturer if we have a warranty support arrangement with that manufacturer.

Warranty Statement: Warranty on products sold and shipped by SailRC covers failure of any part that is caused by defect in workmanship or materials when the product is used as intended*.

*Use as intended Model boats and boat equipment are intended to sail on water. They are not intended to withstand collisions with each other or any other obstruction. Electronics are not intended to get wet!

What is not covered Damage caused by misuse, abuse, improper care, accident, modification, shipping, wear and tear, or repair by anyone other than the manufacturer or their representative. Damage to metal parts due to use in salt water.

Warranty Fine Print

Registration & Proof of Purchase Proof of purchase is critical to a warranty claim. Please register your boat with SailRC within one month of purchase and keep your original receipt.

Electronics SailRC is not a warranty service station for any electronics company. We are pretty good at troubleshooting most of our electronics but even we have a hard time keeping up with new technology. We will troubleshoot your issue on the phone and if we cannot resolve your issue, we will send you directly to a manufacturer’s service rep to get a resolution (either repair or replacement). We will NOT be sending you overseas to any manufacturer – all service centers we use are in the US!

Shipping Damage All items shipped by SailRC are insured for full value. If your boat, or accessories, are damaged during shipping from us to you, it is important to contact SailRC immediately for claims processing.

Important If something is damaged in shipping, most of the time the outside box shows evidence of rough handling. We need pictures of damage to the box.

Again, we are not responsible for damage in shipping but we facilitate getting a resolution in your favor.

Warranty Shipping – The customer is responsible for all costs of shipping a warranty item to and from a warranty station.

No Return If a part fails, many times we can made a decision based on your photograph sent via email. In this case, we may avoid having to return the broken part for review. So take good pictures and send to Steve@SailRC.com.

Replacement Parts Any shipping involved with warranty parts is paid by the owner.

If SailRC ships a warranty replacement part before a faulty part is returned to SailRC, or the manufacturer, the owner will be charged for the replacement. When the part is properly returned and deemed replaceable under warranty, then a credit will be issued to owner’s credit card.

Term We do not set the term of warranty service on our products but we sometimes offer extended warranty coverage. Below are just some of the warranty terms for the products we handle.

Nirvana High Definition Radio Control (HDRC) manufactures Nirvana in China. They warrant each boat for 90 days from the verified date of  purchase. In North America, SailRC manages all Nirvana warranty services.

Nirvana’s Host of Features

Over the years, I have been pleased to be involved with the upgrades to this design. Most of these upgrades are to make the boat more robust, and easier to maintain.

Below are the features of this boat that stand it apart from other RC sailboats in this price range. These features are definitely owner benefits right out of the box.

The Box itself is a work of art. Packing a ready-built sailboat is difficult at best, but Nirvana makes it look easy. Inside the box is a full size foam clamshell-pack molded to accept each part of the boat in its own secure place. That includes the transmitter. Even the top of the two-part mast comes mounted in the top of the mainsail, and fit in the box in such a way as to allow the sail to curve around the rounded end of the clamshell to protect it from creasing. Polyester film makes a terrific sail, but it holds creases – thus the extra attention to the design and installation of these special sails. Loosen a few pieces of tape, and assemble according to little letter tags stuck to the pieces – all according to the diagrams in the manual, and you are out sailing in 30 minutes!

Sails Nirvana sails are made of the same material pioneered by the RC Laser in 1996. They are made from a polyester film bonded to a polyester fiber. The result is a sail that will not tear, stretch or mildew. So the only enemy is sunshine.  However, even sailing every day, these sails will last for many years. Most other model sails in this price range are almost throwaways – but not these sails, they are terrific.

Attractive Oh yeah, a lot of boats are nice looking, but my ongoing attraction to this RC sailboat is that it looks like a real racer/cruiser like the majority of sailors have crewed on all their lives. A cabin trunk with portholes, realistic main hatch decals, and a cockpit with seat boards. How cool. And the toe rail sets off the deck line and gives that real-boat look. (Toe rails keep real sailors from sliding off the edge of the deck) And the paint job is just terrific, shiny and bright. The only thing I personally don’t like are all the Megatech and Nirvana decals all over the place. So the first thing I do is to peel them all off and leave the boat looking sleek instead of like a floating billboard.

In the picture above you see the owner’s boat name on the side (having removed many of the original decals). BTW, you can remove the sticky from the decals with Goo Gone, works great and it doesn’t damage the paint finish.

 

Keel The first thing that struck me about the keel was how deep it is. It’s simple. To keep a sailboat on it’s feet, you need a counterbalance to the wind in the sails. The deeper the keel, the less lead you need at the bottom. The less weight the boat carries, the faster it will go through the water. So deep is beautiful! Oh, and the lead is cased in a hard plastic shell to protect it (lead is soft), and to give it a smooth surface. Very nice touch.

Rigging Did I say modern yet? Well this boat has a modern rig – meaning it has the high aspect (tall) rig of the go-fast full sized boats of today ~ it’s authentic, cool looking, efficient, and powerful. Remember what I said about the deep keel?? This is the rig to match. And it is clean, aerodynamically speaking, with a foil sleeve along the leading edges of both sails. No other boat has that.

Mast & Booms I love the sheet length adjuster arrangement (easily sets the sheet length for proper trimming by the servos). And the spars (mast and booms), are gorgeous. Highly polished black carbon fiber reinforced tubes are seeeexxxxxy! And they are strong and light. Not some wimpy aluminum tube like you get on others. The mast is two part and it is tapered, getting smaller at the top ~ something else you won’t find on any other boats in the price range.

Balanced Unlike many little boats (boats under 36″), this boat is amazingly well balanced. Only a racing skipper knows what this means to performance. But to the first time boat owner it means easy control with the boat doing all the right things when the skipper makes a mistake. This boat is a joy to sail and will leave other slugs in her wake as she slides gracefully through the water.

Sits Well   This is no good term for this feature – the boat just sits in the water well. Upright and alert, properly ballasted fore and aft. This hull has a “bustle” in her “git-along” that allows her to carry her weight aft (which helps keep the bow up when sailing downwind) and yet she puts her hull lines to work sailing to windward in just the right way. What am I talking about??? I won’t bore you with the technology here, but when you see this boat sail, you will know what I mean.

Performance Nirvana is really impressive. I did all the test sailing against a race warrior CR 914. The boat points very well, tacks fast and clean, tracks like she is riding a rail, and has bursts of speed to equal much larger boats. And down wind when many models look like submarines in full dive mode, she keeps her head up and flies over the waves.

Tell us how you feel Steve! – Do you get the idea I am impressed with this boat??? Well, I have sailed just about all of the models on the market at one time or another, and I race some of the best at the national level. But when I get my Nirvana out, I am always impressed with her good manners, her good looks, and her surprisingly good performance. You will love this boat – or I will take it back, simple as that.

Nirvana Race Tuning

Nirvanas are uniformly produced and regulated by a rule that prevents owners from modifying their boats in such a way as to gain a boat speed advantage.  Therefore, to get the best boat speed for the conditions, you need to understand tuning.

Tuning is a skipper skill that is learned and perfected with practice. Not all successful sailors agree on every aspect of tuning, but we generally agree on the basics.  Exact settings are not useful – it is the concepts that count, along with building experience.

 

Vocabulary/Definitions

I have laid out some terminology so that we are all talking about the same parts.

Stays – Stays run fore and aft on the Nirvana. They adjust the top of the mast forward and back. The forward stay is called the forestay! How odd. It can also be correctly called a jib stay in this case because it runs through the luff of the jib.

Shrouds – Often referred to as side stays but that is generally because you have forgotten the word Shroud. These lines/wires support the mast sideways.

Sheets – These are the lines that trim the sails. The line to the jib is the jib sheet, and the line to the mainsail is the mainsheet.

Outhauls – These are lines attached to the clew (lower, rear corner) of each sail. We have two lines attached to each clew on each sail. The aft one is the outhaul, the other is a leech tension line, or take down. Outhauls on Nirvanas are normally attached to O-rings on their respective booms.

Halyards – The line that holds the sail up.  In models we don’t actually have running halyards, per se, since we never lower the sails.  Instead we just tie them up, but for reference, that is the halyard. These lines are attached to the top (head) of each sail.

Downhauls – Downhauls are not generally needed on Nirvanas.  The stiffness of polyethylene sails does not allow the sail to bunch up along the luff, nor is the downhaul capable of stretching the luff (polyethylene does not stretch).  If used at all, a downhaul is simply a preventer to keep the luff of the sail down in place.  There is no downhaul on the Nirvana as produced.

Rake – Rake indicates the lean of the mast fore and aft. Not to be mistaken with mast bend.

Twist – If you look up (or down) the leach (trailing edge) of each sail, twist is the curve from side to side. A lot of twist appears as an “S”, where very little twist is nearly straight.

Slot – When sailing to windward (into the wind), slot is the amount of space the wind has to pass between the jib and main.

Balance – For the purposes of this article, balance refers to how well the boat self steers. A perfectly balanced boat has a small, but noticeable, demand to turn into the wind if the steering is left neutral. See Weather Helm.

Weather Helm – is the tendency of the boat to turn into the wind – actually the amount of weather helm is measured in the amount of effort put into holding the boat in a straight line. If you are turning your rudder any sizeable amount to prevent the boat from turning into the wind, the rudder is causing unnecessary drag slowing the boat down. To correct, you need to “balance” the boat.

Sails – The three edges of the sail are: leading edge – luff; trailing edge – leech; bottom edge – foot.  The three corners are: top (luff/leech) – head; bottom (luff/foot) – tack; bottom (leech/foot) – clew.

Draft – In this tuning article, draft is the amount of belly/camber placed in the sails by moving the outhaul connection on the boom forward ~ not the other meaning for draft (the amount of water that your boat needs to keep from running aground).

Boom Vang – When the wind strikes the sail, the boom wants to rise, allowing the sail to “twist” out of shape. The jib pivot attachment provides a cantilever effect to keep the rear end of the jib boom from rising but the mainsail needs a physical line connected to the boom and the bottom of the mast. That is the boom vang.

 

Tuning Concepts

These concepts are the same for most boats whether models or crewed boats.

Balance – For optimum performance, a boat must be balanced so that it has a slight tendency to turn into the wind if steering is left in a neutral position. If the boat turns away from the wind, or turns violently into the wind, balance is not correct.

Balance is affected by quite a number of variables. But we will only address those variables that you can adjust easily, mainly the rigging and the sail set.

The overall effort of the sails is consolidated to a single point called the “center of effort” (CE).  For you, the CE is someplace, and it is not worth figuring it out.  All you know is that you can adjust the CE forward and aft by changing the angle of the rig.

The boat itself has a center of collective forces, but you cannot change that as the position and size of the rudder, keel, and the shape of the hull are all fixed in the original design.

So all you can adjust is the rake (lean) of the mast, and the trim of the sails (draft, angle).

Specifically, there are three adjustments that move the center of effort of the sails fore and aft – the draft of the sails, the rake of the mast, and the position of the jib (forestay).

Rake – If you find that your boat has too much weather helm (wants to round into the wind violently), your rig may be raked too far aft.   (top of mast behind the foot of the mast). If your boat tends to turn away from the wind when your steering is centered, then you have lee helm. In this case, your rake is too far forward.

I highly recommend with Nirvana that you stand the mast straight up and down to start, as best you can see it – not leaning forward or aft. In this position, the boat is fairly well balanced in most conditions.  Step back from the boat and view the mast in relation to the keel fin.  They should be parallel.

To adjust rake, concentrate on the direction you are moving the head of the mast.  Move forward if you want to lessen weather helm, aft to increase.  How much is the question.

You can only know this by actually sailing the boat.  It helps to have a steady breeze the day you experiment so that the wind velocity factor doesn’t muddy the waters.

One thing I like to do is test the extremes, so I will normally rake the mast forward about an inch from vertical.  That should produce a marked difference in helm.  And then slowly move the rake aft until I get the desired gradual heading to windward with the rudder in neutral position.

Jib Pivot – We all jest over what the pivot line that connects the jib boom to the foredeck is called. Some call it the jib tack, some the jib takedown or downhaul, some (like me) simply call it the jib pivot. Whatever you call it, the deck fitting it attaches to cannot be moved (by class regulation), but the connection to the jib boom can be made adjustable. As the boat is delivered, the jib pivot line is tied through a hole in the jib boom, but you can substitute a string ring connector to help with what follows.

If the pivot is further back on the boom, then that means the sail is further forward in relation to the boat. The sail being further forward moves the center of effort of the jib further forward, which, in turn, moves the entire sail plan’s center of effort further forward. Remember that moving the center of effort further forward lessens weather helm, the same as raking forward.

Draft – Drafting your sails is a double-edged sword. In light winds, you need to draft your sails (put belly in them) because these sails have no shape of their own. Curvature (draft) is power to drive the boat through the wind and water in lighter winds.   Another aspect of draft is that it moves the center of effort aft – increasing weather helm.  This is fine in light winds but when the wind starts to blow harder, if you don’t remove draft from your sails, you will find your boat fighting to head into the wind (weather helm) and she will bog down with all the rudder drag.

To put draft into your sails, move the clew adjustment ring on the booml forward.  This will allow the foot of the sail to develop more curve (camber) while maintaining leech tension. On the Nirvana, as initially rigged, the outhaul goes to an O ring which you slide forward. The leech tension line stays a fixed length (around the boom and through the clew grommet)

Drafting is done on both sails with more draft used in light winds and less and less as the wind velocity increases. You will know when to reduce the draft in your sails by the trouble you are having steering the boat.

Sail Twist/Boom Vang – The rig on the jib boom of a model is considerably different that on a crewed boat.  The jib pivot is connected part way aft on the boom.  Therefore the tension on the forestay at the forward end of the jib boom uses the jib pivot to cantilever tension into the leech of the jib which helps with sail shape in most wind conditions.

Often we talk about leech tension on the mainsail using the term “twist” ~ more twist or less twist. So let’s make sure you know what you are trying to do with the amount of twist you allow.

Generally, in light winds you want very little twist in the leech of your mainsail. That is because the leech of the sail is your driving force to windward and you need the sail from bottom to top. As the wind increases and you start sailing the boat with the rail down, it is wise to add more twist. This allows the top sections of the sail leech to “open”, spilling wind from the top of the sail. This keeps the driving force of the bottom of the sail while spilling wind up high where it does more to heel the boat compared to driving it.

Two things affect twist in the mainsail. The first is the angle of trim on the outhaul. If equal tension is placed on the foot and the leech of the sail (45 degree angle on outhaul), then the leech of the sail will tend to twist more because the leech of the sail is much longer than the foot.  So in light winds, sliding the outhaul forward a bit will put more tension on the leech than on the foot, keeping the twist in the sail to a minimum.

Second is the tension on the boom vang. The boom vang holds the boom down which maintains the tension you have set in the leech of the. Without the boom vang, the boom will rise, slacking the leech and cause the sail to lose all power.  When talking about the jib, the jib pivot cantilever acts like a boom vang keeping the leech taught as the wind increases.

The only variation to keeping the boom vang set tight is in rough seas or puffy wind. In these conditions, the boom vang should be slackened slightly to allow the sail to twist (breath). As the boat hobby-horses through the waves or is hit by puffs, the sail will twist and straighten which pumps the boat through the water, while keeping her on her feet.

 

Boat Speed

As I mentor other model sailors, the thing I emphasize most is BOAT SPEED!!! Without boat speed it doesn’t make any difference how good a tactician you are, or how well you have tuned your boat.

So what is boat speed – how do you measure it? Unfortunately when you are out sailing by yourself, you don’t always recognize subtle differences in boat speed. So you usually need to be sailing with another boat close by so you can gauge relative boat speed. There are some visual clues that you should learn, things you can see when you are not right next to another boat.

Heel angle – Often when you are sailing to windward, the angle of heel is an indicator of whether you are sailing with your sails at the right angle of attack (angle to the oncoming wind).  It is possible to sail on an angle too close to the wind, but still with the sails not luffing.  In this case, it is the change in angle of heel that is the indicator.  So whenever your boat is sailing along and then stands up, only two things can be the reason.  One is that the wind, or the boat, has changed direction and the pressure in the sails has reduced because the angle of attack is not correct.  You will hear the term “pinching” to describe sailing too close to the wind.  Your reaction must be to turn away from the direction of the wind slightly and see if the boat heels again and picks up speed.

The other reason for an abrupt decrease in angle of heel is that the wind has momentarily decreased.  So if you turn away from the wind as above, and the heel does not increase, resume your original heading until the wind returns.

Unfortunately, observing the angle of heel does not help sailors understand that they are not pointing high enough (close enough) to the angle of the wind.  In this case, your sails are full, and they look good, and you have an angle of heel based on the wind velocity.  Even though the sails become less efficient in this position (to big an angle of attack), it is not boat speed that is the problem but the boat direction.  So if you are sailing with other boats, and you are sailing at a different angle to the wind than a boat near you, and about the same speed, the boat sailing closer to the wind will clearly arrive at the windward mark first.

Both the issue of sailing too close to the wind (small angle of attack), and two far off the wind (wide angle of attack) is almost impossible to read in the sails.  In the “too close” to the wind issue, use heel to help you.  In “too far off”, you must rely on others sailing near you to see if you are close enough to the wind.  Of course a good technique when sailing to windward is to occasionally head closer to the wind to see for sure that you are maintaining your proper angle of attack.  If you head up and your boat stands up, you know you were sailing at the best angle of attack, and you should immediately fall off and continue sailing.  This is often called “feeling” for the wind.

I have not mentioned telltales.  Properly placed telltales can help you with being too far off the wind, but do practically nothing to help you with being “too close” to the wind.  When you are too far off the wind telltales attached to the jib will show you by “winding up” the leeward telltale.  When both jib telltales are streaming you know you are close enough to the wind, but unfortunately, they will both stream if you are headed right into the wind!

Side-slip. If you see your boat going slightly sideways compared to similar boats nearby – we sometimes call this “crabbing”, you need to slack your sails a little, turn away from the wind slightly, and get your boat speed up. Proper boat speed keeps the fins in the water (keel and rudder) from stalling. When the boat slows and you have wind pressure in the sails, the fins can stall causing side-slip or crabbing. You will learn to see this and avoid it.

Over steering – Many sailors slow their progress with way too much steering.  Practice steering with a steady hand so that your boat changes direction without jerky movements.  Rapid steering adjustments are just like putting on the brakes because when you turn the rudder quickly, it drags through the water momentarily.  Besides, there is less distance between two points if you sail a straight line!

Practice, practice, practice – Adjustments to your boat and proper handling based on your visuals of the boat, all take practice. NOTHING takes the place of “stick time”. The more you sail, the more you will learn the visual clues talked about here. You will learn the adjustments we have spoken about above because you will have done some trial and error. And, you will have learned to keep your Boat Speed up so that your boat will handle better and win more races for you. Good luck.

Your comments or questions are always welcomed, as I can never seem to remember everything I want to write.  But these guides will help you get to the top of the fleet if you practice, practice, practice!!!!

Nirvana in Salt Water?

The Megatech manual says “no!”, but we say “yes!”

We (SailRC) have always contended that Nirvana is as suitable in salt water as any boat in her price range, if not even more suitable.  “Price range” has to do with the quality of the “stainless” steel used in this boat, and some of the other corrosive metals like the rudder post.  The composite construction of the hull/deck, keel, rudder, spars and sails is as good as boats three times the expense.

Electronics do get wet in most sailboats, even very expensive ones – so you need to adopt procedures for maintenance that maintain electronics that are prone to getting wet or working in a damp atmosphere.

Getting wet with salt water and fresh water causes the same immediate issues.  The difference with salt water is that when the water dries the salt remains to attract more moisture.  So sailing in salt water adds the extra maintenance step to rinse salt water off boat (and electronics if they have gotten wet) before drying.

I carry a small fresh water spray bottle to wash salt water off the electronics if they get wet while sailing.  Then after preliminary drying, I always stick a hairdryer (on low) in the electronics compartment for 15-20 minutes to completely heat and dry all the electrical fittings and servos.

Another trick for maintaining electronics is to drown them in Corrosion X at least once a season to keep a protective barrier on your working electrics.  Do NOT use WD 40 or similar.  Corrosion X is the product and it has recently been sold by Home Depot.

The rudder post on Nirvana is a problem, especially around salt water, because of the dissimilar metals used.  The rudder post is a mild steel, and the shaft log is brass.  If not lubricated faithfully, the post will freeze into the shaft log (tube), requiring considerable effort to free and repair.  I make sure to remove the rudder every day or two when sailing in salt water to make sure the lubricant I use is evident and doing the job. ALWAYS lubricate before storing for more than a week!  Any light grease is good, I use Vaseline.

The other metal parts on the boat (screws, wires, etc) may “bleed” a little if not cleaned and dried after sailing, but that is more aesthetic damage than physical.

Bottom line, you can safely enjoy your boat in salt water – it just takes a little care afterwards (as with all boats) to keep certain parts operational.

Nirvana Class International Racing Rule

Published 2/1/12
The radio controlled Nirvana was designed and engineered for production by Jon Elmaleh in 2003. Nirvana is produced by Megatech International Inc, hereinafter referred to as the builder.

The Nirvana is a One-Design class model sailboat whose specifications are regulated by the builder to insure uniform performance and quality control worldwide. This rule only pertains to those owners who wish to race their boat.

 

 

SECTION A – FUNDAMENTAL RULES STRUCTURE

A.1 One-Design Clause – The primary purpose of this class rule is to regulate all Nirvana sailboats throughout the world, used for racing, to be equal in all characteristics that affect performance.
Modifications -No modification, removal, or additions shall be made to any manufactured boat part unless it is specifically detailed in this document.
Manufactured Standard -Only boat parts manufactured by the builder (OEM) shall be used. (Hull, Keel, Rudder, Mast, Booms, Hatches, Cockpit seats, Sails)
A.2 Definitions
    Abbreviations
IRCNCA – International Nirvana Class Association
RRS – Racing Rules Of Sailing
MT – Megatech International- licensed builder
ISAF – International Sailing Federation
NA – National Authority
Language
English – The official language of the class is English and in case of dispute over translation the English text shall prevail.
Clarification -the word “shall” is mandatory and the word “may” is permissive.

A.3 Authority – The builder is the final authority for the terms and wording of this rule.

Rules Committee– – The builder may appoint a rules committee of knowledgeable boat owners. This committee shall advise the builder on rules issues raised by owners.
Owner Input – Any class boat owner, or group of owners, may propose a rule change, or rules discrepancy, to the Rules Committee for consideration. The Rules committee may propose such rule changes to the builder.
Legal Responsibility – Neither the ISAF, nor any NA, nor any recognized measurer is under any legal responsibility with respect to these class rules for accuracy of measurement, and no claim arising from them will be entertained.
Certificate – No measurement certificate is requiredhowever, boats are subject to inspection by the race committee at any time during a regatta or series to determine compliance with these regulations.
SECTION B – ORGANIZATION
B.1 Administration of the Class
Country or Regional Class Secretaries shall be appointed by the builder, or may be elected by a vote of class members when a sizeable, builder recognized, organization is formed in that particular country/region.
Communications – Communications to class members on class business shall be by web site, national affiliation publications and email where available.
SECTION C – AUTHORIZED MODIFICATIONS 
C.1 Electronic Equipment
Servos – No servo shall be modified electronically or mechanically from its factory default performance torque, speed and travel. However, other servos may be installed as long as their performance factors are not greater than listed here:
Sail Servo – Max torque in oz/in = 122/153 (4.8v/6.0v); Speed = .24/.20 (4.8v/6.0v) Only arm winches are authorized
Steer Servo – No restrictions.
On-Board Batteries – Nirvana electronics shall be powered by either 4 ea alkaline AA cells (6 v), or 4 ea NiCad/Nickel Metal Hydride rechargeable AA cells (4.8 v).
Antenna – The receiver antenna may be installed in any manner.
C.2 Hull & Deck
Hull Finish – The hull may be repaired, sanded, filled, and painted as long as the hull shape is not modified from the original in any way.
Hull & Deck Decoration – Any means is suitable – self-adhesive letters, tape, decals, or paint, may be used on the deck and hull.
Bow Bumpers – Class legal bow bumpers may be required by local authority for any competitive sailing.  There is only one class legal bow bumper.
Drain Hole – Drain holes may be installed in the bow or stern for draining the hull.
C.3 Underwater Appendages 
Keel and Rudder – The keel fin and bulb, and the rudder may be sanded and painted. The shape of the keel and rudder shall not be changed in any way. No filet is authorized where the keel fin enters the ballast or the hull.
C.4 Rigging
Rigging Lines – Lines used for mainsheet, jib sheet, outhauls, halyards, topping lifts, downhauls, boom vang, stays and shrouds may be of any material deemed suitable by the boat owner.
Booms – Standard booms may be shortened for better clearance but sail dimensions of the standard sails may not be altered. Additional sheet adjustment holes may be added to the boom. Alternate fittings for sail attachment and adjustment may be installed.
Fasteners – Clips or hooks of any kind may be used to fasten lines but should be of closed design so they do not catch rigging of near-by boats.
Mast Head Fitting (Crane) – The mast head crane may be drilled to provide alternate backstay attachment positions.
Gooseneck & Boom Vang Fittings – The gooseneck and boom vang mast fittings shall be used, however, the gooseneck swivel and the boom vang mechanism may be altered or substituted. The location of boom fitting, for the boom vang, shall not be changed.
Jib Swivel Fitting – The jib swivel deck fitting shall not be moved. The swivel, itself, may be of any configuration and length, and the location of the attachment point on the jib boom may be adjustable.
Topping Lifts – Topping lifts may be fitted to main and jib booms.
Down Hauls – Downhaul lines may be attached to each sail via one grommet at a time.
Halyards – Halyards may be attached to each sail via one grommet at a time.
Sheet Exit Hole – The location, size and shape of the exit hole in the electronics compartment starboard wall, through which the sheets pass, may be modified.
Sheet Attachment to Boom – Sheets may be attached to the boom by any fittings or method.
Shroud Rail Fittings – Shroud attachment fittings, and location on the rail, are optional, but shall be no further aft than 17″ measured from the front of the toe rail to the eye of the fitting, measured along the toe rail.
Wind Vanes & Tell Tales – Any type of wind direction indicator may be attached to the top of the mast, and tell tales may be used on the sails at owner’s descretion.
C.5 – SAILS
Attachments – Wind Flow indicators may be attached to any point of the sails and may be made of any material.
Repair – Sail damage may be repaired as long as repair does not stiffen or alter the size of the sail.
Sail Numbers – Nirvana sail numbers are a specific size, color and font and are located on the sails as specified in the Sail Number addendum attached to these rules.
Sail Graphics – Sails may be decorated using decals, tape or markers, but such markings shall not interfere with easy identification of the sail numbers or the class logo. Sail decorations may not significantly stiffen or change the shape/size of the sail.
Class Logo – The font, size, and location are as designated on the Sail Number addendum, when adopted.
Grommets – Grommets may be installed at any location on the clew, tack, or head, of either sail, however only one grommet at each corner of the sail may be used at one time.
Battens – Battens are optional, but if used shall be positioned, and be of the same dimensions, as on the standard OEM sails.

D. MISCELLANEOUS RACING RESTRICTIONS

Crew – The crew shall consist of one person, but may be more with special permission of the Race Committee.
E. PENDING RULE CHANGES
Minimum Weight – A minimum weight shall be determined. As soon as the appropriate investigation is complete, a suitable minimum weight will be designated. In the interim, all boats will sail with all original equipment on board except for those exceptions listed in C. above.
Sails – Smaller sails are being designed and tested to determine suitability for heavy weather sailing.

Tuning Tips for the RC Laser

Guidelines by Jon Elmaleh
as edited by Abigail Kelly and Steve Lang

The incredibly good design and engineering of the RC Laser leaves the skipper with a relatively small range of performance adjustments. Because there are so few, they are fairly critical.  What follows are basic guidelines to help you achieve greater performance from your RC Laser.

Adjusting sail shape is very important especially with respect to foot curve and leech twist. Knowing how much of each is based on practice and competition.  Basically, in a light wind, more foot curve and a less leach twist are best.  In a heavy wind, aim for less foot curve and more leech twist.

How are these sail adjustments made?
At the aft end of the boom are two sliders.  The forward one is for tensioning, the aft slider adjusts the angle of outhaul tension on the sail.  If you slide the aft slider forward, the tension angle is more down than out.  So tensioning in this position tightens the leech, and allows the foot to curve away from the boom (foot curve).  This produces draft that powers the boat in light wind.

As the aft slider is moved further aft, the angle of tension changes to distribute the tension more equally on the leech and the foot of the sail.  In this position, a puff of wind bends the mast causing the leach to twist spilling air – which helps the boat stay upright.  The lower section of the sail stays properly trimmed to help power the boat through the puff.

What is the proper amount of foot curve for a given wind condition?
A good indicator is boat balance (helm pressure).  If the boat is able to sail itself to windward with little or no steering correction (neutral helm), then the foot curve is about right. Too much weather helm (the boat rotating into the wind) indicates that you need to flatten the foot curve. A leeward helm (the boat falling off the wind) shows a need for an increased foot curve.

Sailing in choppy water
Increasing leech twist helps prevent stalling the sail as the boat pitches through the waves.  Because waves do not always relate to current wind velocity, this is a tricky setting to make. Don’t worry about a little windward helm in choppy conditions since it helps you find the wind.

Proper boom position
Most top sailors agree that sailing upwind with the boom just inside the aft corner of the stern is the proper location.  Pulling the sail further inboard (pinching) produces a boat that goes upwind at a closer angle, but it travels much slower through the water.  This position is only useful for short distances to get around a mark or obstacle.  With the boom just inside the aft corner of the boat, you will find the RC Laser develops the best speed, and angle to windward.

Electronic boom positioning
It is often difficult to see the position of the boom from shore while you are sailing.  Therefore, the following electronic and sheet adjustments allow you to know where the boom is by the position of your transmitter controls.

With the radio system on, place the sail control lever (left) all the way down (the full-in position).  Set the fine tune slider next to the control lever, in the middle of its range.

Now adjust the length of the mainsheet (black string) so that the boom is positioned just inside the corner of the transom (should be done with the sail mounted).

The idea is that when you sail to windward, you push the sail lever all the way down and put the fine tune slider in the middle.  That is your base position where your sail will be properly set for most of your windward sailing.

If you need to pinch up to pass an obstacle or a mark, move the slider down and it will bring in the sail to the centerline of the boat.  If you have been slowed by waves, tacking, or another boat, you may want to push the fine tune slider up to let the sail out a little as you foot off to gain speed.

Mast bend
In light winds do not tension the outhaul to the point where it bends the mast.  At the opposite end of the scale, when the wind is blowing hard, slide your aft slider all the way aft, and you will tension the sail so that there is little or no foot curve.  Tension the outhaul to bend the mast so it pretty well fills out the luff pocket (leading edge of the sail).  Obviously there is a lot of variation based on the wind speed.

When to Switch Sails?
Basically, when you begin to dive while sailing downwind, you should switch to a smaller sail. Many sailors carry big sails too long, and their performance is compromised by loss of control.  There is very little difference in boat speed between sail sizes in the crossover wind ranges and keeping control is often the deciding factor.  Experience will help you determine the best time to change.

Steering
Concentrate on steering your boat in a straight line – remember the shortest distance between two points is a straight line.  Over-steering is a common mistake in model sailboats.  Focus on smoothing out your steering and you will earn big rewards in performance.

Also remember that every time you turn sharply, the rudder acts as a brake, slowing your boat speed.

Slight Changes
Tuning is done by degrees. Shades of adjustment make a difference.  Tuning is not a mystery, but one that takes practice until you find the groove.  These guidelines are just that, the parameters within which you will find the right combination to get the very best performance from your boat.

On the other hand, you can have a perfectly tuned boat and move your thumb in the wrong direction and . . .   J  So don’t fret over tuning, follow the basic guidelines and it will come to you.

RC Laser Manual – Diagrams and How To’s

Every once in a while, we are asked for another copy of the manual that comes with every new RC Laser.

We are posting it here to help existing RC Laser owners with their boats and for new owners of a used RC Laser. Your RC Laser will likely last longer than the manual…so rest assured, we will keep it available online.

For those of you who do not have an RC Laser yet – this will give you an idea of how great the RC Laser is.

***Please Note! The manual does need to be updated. We have included the 2012 addendum to cover a few of these changes.***

This is in the format of a printed book to be stapled down the middle. Watch the page numbers to follow it online or print it and staple it to read it in order.

RC Laser Manual 2006

RC Laser Manual Addendum 2012

This entry was posted in RC Laser on  by Theresa Rae Gay.

Nirvana

Product Specifications

Hull
Length overall: 32 inches

Height
Bottom of keel to top of mast: 64 inches

Beam
maximum width: 7.75 inches

Weight
Sailing weight w/batteries: 5.5 pounds

Draft
Depth of water needed to sail: 13″

Sail Area
Total of main and jib: 525 square inches

For more expanded information on the features of the Nirvana, check out a couple of articles:

RC Laser

The Finest Radio Controlled Sailboat in the World

Below are the specifications of this terrific model followed by some of the feature highlights. There are many more articles on the Skippers Log about this remarkable types of sailboat as well.

Specifications:

Length Deck 41.5″
Length Waterline 37.75″
Beam 13.5″
Draft 17″
Main Hoist 50″
Mast top above deck 54″
Bottom of keel to top of mast 73″
Sail Area
A
B
C
D
949 sq. in.
710 sq. in.
600 sq. in.
525 sq. in.
Displacement 9 lbs.

 

Features:

  • Hull and deck molded in one piece polypropylene
  • Mast is tapered fiberglass composite, two piece
  • Sail is sleeved to slide over the mast. Sail is made of non-woven polyester composite film
  • Mast is stepped into a non-captive deck step that allows mast to swivel. There is no standing rigging
  • Gooseneck fitting is fixed so boom vang is not necessary
  • Keel and rudder snap in and out in an instant – no tools
  • Easy access to radio compartment via snap-lid port
  • Easy to adjust stainless outhaul sliders on boom
  • All parts are interchangeable and inexpensive to replace
  • Full On Board electronics to include class approved servos for sail and steering
  • Two channel AM Radio system (drum sail winch, steering servo installed)
  • Batteries not included – requires 8 or 12 ea AA batteries, either alkaline or rechargeable
  • Boat is corrosion resistant and salt water safe

Charger

$17.00

NX83 Delta Peak Charger – for your rechargeable RC needs

*Please note, this will not work with the transmitter that comes with the 2014 Nirvana as there is no place to plug it in. We apologize.

SKU: CHARGER
Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Accessories.
Tagged as NX83, rechargeable batteries, Transmitter, trickle charger, spektrum, JST.

NX83 Delta Peak Charger. This is a trickle charger that brings TX and RX cells up to full strength over night, and then continues to hold all batteries at peak strength without fear of overcharging.

For the RC Laser:
One charger lead plugs into either the 5-pack RC Laser rechargeable battery or the battery holder for the receiver. The other lead plugs into the transmitter. Therefore, no batteries need to be handled at all. Lights on the charger indicate that proper connection is made.

For the Nirvana (not 2014 version*), Seawind and most other RC sailboats:
One charger lead plugs into the battery holder for the receiver. The other lead plugs into the transmitter. Therefore, no batteries need to be handled at all. Lights on the charger indicate that proper connection is made.

*We are sorry to say that the 2014 Nirvana transmitter does NOT have a place to plug the charger into.

The lead that plugs into the transmitters has an option for either positive (most transmitters) or negative (Spektrum transmitters). Check to see if your transmitter has a place to plug it in and you are all set!

Check out our recharge kits – great way to get batteries and charger at a special price.
RC Laser 8 (includes 5 pack for boat plus 8 AA for TX)
RC Laser 4 (includes 5 pack for boat plus 4 AA for TX)
Nirvana 8 (includes 8 AA for boat plus 8 AA for TX) – also for Seawind, Fairwind and other RC sailboats
Nirvana 4* (includes 4 AA for boat plus 8 AA for TX) – also for Seawind, Fairwind and other RC sailboats
*2014 Nirvana does NOT have a place to plug the charger into – we apologize.

SailRC is not a warranty service station for any electronics company. We are pretty good at troubleshooting most of our electronics but even we have a hard time keeping up with new technology. We will troubleshoot your issue on the phone and if we cannot resolve your issue, we will send you directly to a manufacturer’s service rep to get a resolution (either repair or replacement). We will NOT be sending you overseas to any manufacturer – all service centers we use are in the US!

Wind Vane

$16.00 $14.00

Very light and sensitive wind vane for the top of the mast.

SKU: WIND
Posted in Miscellaneous, Nirvana, Accessories, RC Laser, Accessories, Explorer, Accessories, Dragon Force, Accessories, Accessories.
Tagged as Nirvana wind vane, RC Laser wind vane, top of mast wind vane, Wind vane.

Very light and sensitive vane, attaches to sail (RC Laser) or Masthead (Nirvana and any other boat).

This masthead vane is painted with florescent yellow on one side and day glow orange on the other to read it better from shore. It is very light weight and has a slick balancing pin in the nose. It is easily installed to the top of the A sail for the RC laser, or directly into the masthead fitting for the Nirvana. Primarily used for light wind racing conditions.

Recommended for Racing.

Boat Stand for the Nirvana

$19.00

To display your Nirvana

Custom-made wooden scissor stand with keel support.

2 left as of July 9, 2013.

Wind Vane

$16.00 $14.00

Very light and sensitive wind vane for the top of the mast.

SKU: WIND
Posted in Miscellaneous, Nirvana, Accessories, RC Laser, Accessories, Explorer, Accessories, Dragon Force, Accessories, Accessories.
Tagged as Nirvana wind vane, RC Laser wind vane, top of mast wind vane, Wind vane.

Very light and sensitive vane, attaches to sail (RC Laser) or Masthead (Nirvana and any other boat).

This masthead vane is painted with florescent yellow on one side and day glow orange on the other to read it better from shore. It is very light weight and has a slick balancing pin in the nose. It is easily installed to the top of the A sail for the RC laser, or directly into the masthead fitting for the Nirvana. Primarily used for light wind racing conditions.

Recommended for Racing.

Sail Numbers for Nirvana Sails

$8.00

Class approved sail numbers for the Nirvana.

 

SKU: NNUM
Posted in Nirvana, Sail/Rigging, Accessories.
Tagged as decal, RC Laser sail numbers, sail numbers decals.

As directed by the Nirvana Racing Rules, the sail number specs are:

  • Height: 3″ tall
  • Font: Arial Rounded MT Bold
  • Color: Black

Each sail number is one piece – i.e. if your sail number is 24, one sticker has 24 on it rather than one sticker with a 2 and one sticker with an 4.

Sail numbers are sold by the pair as each jib sail needs two (to be seen from both sides of the sail).

If you are buying a new boat, each boat receives a hull number of which the last two numbers are your sail numbers. We will provide the 2 digit sail number to the sign maker for your sail numbers.

If you already have a boat, please signify what sail numbers we need to print for you. Sail numbers are 2 digit.

NOTE: Shipping is included in the price for decals.

CD for Race Countdown

$16.00

Two CD set, one 1 minute, One Staggered Start

SKU: START
Posted in Accessories, RC Laser, Accessories, Accessories.
Tagged as race start countdown, race start signal, staggered start CD, Start CD.

Two CD set, one 1 minute, One Staggered Start

Now a set of two CDs (1 minute & staggered start) – Professionally produced – cannon start signal with auto stop.

Our very popular Start Sequence CD has been improved in 2011 with a second CD for handicapping skippers via use of a staggered start system popularly called RYGG*. Both CDs run at the touch of the “Play” button and automatically stop after the race start. They are immediately ready to restart by the press of the “Play” button.

Both professionally recorded CDs feature a very accurate “click” track, and verbal announcement every ten seconds plus a count down of the final 10 seconds. The start signal is a terrific recording of a cannon fire.

RYGG – stands for Red, Yellow, Green, Go. After the 1 minute countdown the announcer says “Red Start, Yellow Start next” and another 10 seconds passes, before a similar statement begins the Green start sequence and then the final start. This allows clubs to use this very easy to use handicapping system to give novice sailors a head start. Each club determines how a skipper qualifies to move up. Our personal club runs races twice a week and we recalculate positions (Red, Yellow, Green) after each day. Our system is available upon request.

The handicap system is run all the time during club races, allowing any new skipper to jump in at any time and be treated fairly by the system. Enjoy this reliable club racing development handicap system, and the standard upper level regatta 1 minute start countdown.

Tiller with Set Screw

$5.00

Fits over the top of the Nirvana rudder to hold it in place and to allow the servo to connect with the rudder.

SKU: NTILLER
Posted in Hull, Nirvana.
Tagged as nirvana tiller, Nirvana tiller with set screw.

Keel with Ballast

$45.00

Keel with ballast for the Nirvana.

SKU: NKEEL
Posted in Nirvana, Hull, Nirvana Showroom.
Tagged as keel with ballast, Nirvana keel.

Let us know your choice in the comment section of the checkout. If we have that color, we will send it. If not, we will send what we have.

It is class legal to paint your hull, rudder and keel.

Includes wing latch, keel fin, ballast and ballast cover assembled.

Hull

$99.00

The Nirvana hull without electronics installed. Fittings are included.

SKU: NHULL
Posted in Nirvana, Hull.
Tagged as Nirvana hull.
Nirvana blue hull with deck decals and fittings but no electronics installed.

Hatch Cover – Hard

$12.00

The hatch cover that helps to make the Nirvana look so realistic.

SKU: NHC
Posted in Hull, Nirvana.
Tagged as hard hatch cover, nirvana hatch cover.

This is the hard cover that fits over the pliable hatch cover.

As of July 9, 2013, we have 2 with decals and 22 without decals.

Sail Set

$25.00

Main and Jib sails

SKU: NSAIL
Posted in Nirvana, Nirvana Showroom, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as jib sail, main sail, Nirvana main and jib sails, Nirvana sail set, sails.

The only class legal main and jib sails for the Nirvana.

Only 14 left as of July 9, 2013.

Sail Numbers for Nirvana Sails

$8.00

Class approved sail numbers for the Nirvana.

SKU: NNUM
Posted in Nirvana, Sail/Rigging, Accessories.
Tagged as decal, RC Laser sail numbers, sail numbers decals.

As directed by the Nirvana Racing Rules, the sail number specs are:

  • Height: 3″ tall
  • Font: Arial Rounded MT Bold
  • Color: Black

Each sail number is one piece – i.e. if your sail number is 24, one sticker has 24 on it rather than one sticker with a 2 and one sticker with an 4.

Sail numbers are sold by the pair as each jib sail needs two (to be seen from both sides of the sail).

If you are buying a new boat, each boat receives a hull number of which the last two numbers are your sail numbers. We will provide the 2 digit sail number to the sign maker for your sail numbers.

If you already have a boat, please signify what sail numbers we need to print for you. Sail numbers are 2 digit.

NOTE: Shipping is included in the price for decals.

O Ring, Set of 2

$2.00

O-rings help to hold the sheet hook in chosen hole on booms.

SKU: NORING
Posted in Nirvana, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as Nirvana booms, Nirvana O rings, O ring set, O-ring.
For the booms to hold the sheets in place.

Boom Vang “L” Fitting

$4.00

Boom Vang Mast Pivot (“L” fitting) – At the bottom of the boom vang tackle is a fitting that pivots in the mast tang to which is tied the boom vang line. Does not come with wire keeper.

SKU: NVANGL
Posted in Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as Nirvana Boom Vang L Fitting.

Boom Slider, Round

$2.00

Sliders – Black plastic fittings that fit the Nirvana booms. There are two kinds, “oval” and “round”. The “oval” slider is used to pass the hook completely through. The “round” slider is where the hook hooks into.

SKU: NSLIDERR
Posted in Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as Round boom slider for Nirvana.

Boom Slider, Oval

$2.00

Sliders – Black plastic fittings that fit the Nirvana booms. There are two kinds, “oval” and “round”. The “oval” slider is used to pass the hook completely through. The “round” slider is where the hook hooks into.

SKU: NSLIDERO
Posted in Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as oval shaped boom slider for nirvana.

Battery Holder

$6.00

Perfect generic battery holder. It comes with our RC Laser and fits in the Nirvana and other RC sailboats.

SKU: HOLDER
Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Nirvana, RC Laser.
Tagged as accessories, Battery Holder, electronics, holds batteries on board, nirvana, rc laser, sailing.
Holds 4 AA cells.

Servo, Steering – 311

$11.00

Only class legal steering servo for the RC Laser or upgrade for the Nirvana (class legal for Nirvana as well).

SKU: 311
Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Nirvana, RC Laser.
Tagged as 311, RC Laser servo, RC Laser steering servo.

The Hitec HS-311 Servo.

Steering Servo for the RC Laser and can also be used as an upgrade for the Nirvana Steering Servo.

Servo, Sail – Hitec 645

$39.00

Upgrade for the sail servo on the Nirvana – class legal.

SKU: N645
Posted in Electronics, Nirvana.
Tagged as 645 servo, Nirvana sail servo, sail servo.

Charger

$17.00

NX83 Delta Peak Charger – for your rechargeable RC needs

*Please note, this will not work with the transmitter that comes with the 2014 Nirvana as there is no place to plug it in. We apologize.

SKU: CHARGER
Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Accessories.
Tagged as NX83, rechargeable batteries, Transmitter, trickle charger, spektrum, JST.

NX83 Delta Peak Charger. This is a trickle charger that brings TX and RX cells up to full strength over night, and then continues to hold all batteries at peak strength without fear of overcharging.

For the RC Laser:
One charger lead plugs into either the 5-pack RC Laser rechargeable battery or the battery holder for the receiver. The other lead plugs into the transmitter. Therefore, no batteries need to be handled at all. Lights on the charger indicate that proper connection is made.

For the Nirvana (not 2014 version*), Seawind and most other RC sailboats:
One charger lead plugs into the battery holder for the receiver. The other lead plugs into the transmitter. Therefore, no batteries need to be handled at all. Lights on the charger indicate that proper connection is made.

*We are sorry to say that the 2014 Nirvana transmitter does NOT have a place to plug the charger into.

The lead that plugs into the transmitters has an option for either positive (most transmitters) or negative (Spektrum transmitters). Check to see if your transmitter has a place to plug it in and you are all set!

Check out our recharge kits – great way to get batteries and charger at a special price.
RC Laser 8 (includes 5 pack for boat plus 8 AA for TX)
RC Laser 4 (includes 5 pack for boat plus 4 AA for TX)
Nirvana 8 (includes 8 AA for boat plus 8 AA for TX) – also for Seawind, Fairwind and other RC sailboats
Nirvana 4* (includes 4 AA for boat plus 8 AA for TX) – also for Seawind, Fairwind and other RC sailboats
*2014 Nirvana does NOT have a place to plug the charger into – we apologize.

SailRC is not a warranty service station for any electronics company. We are pretty good at troubleshooting most of our electronics but even we have a hard time keeping up with new technology. We will troubleshoot your issue on the phone and if we cannot resolve your issue, we will send you directly to a manufacturer’s service rep to get a resolution (either repair or replacement). We will NOT be sending you overseas to any manufacturer – all service centers we use are in the US!

Boat Stand – RC Laser

$39.00

Display your RC Laser on this stand

SKU: LSTAND
Posted in Accessories, RC Laser.
Tagged as aluminum, boat stand, display, Made especially for RC Laser.

Aluminum and fabric scissor stand.

This stand is designed for displaying your RC Laser indoors. When folded, it fits inside the RC Laser bag for transport.

Note: The RC Laser should never be left in the boat stand outside as the wind may tip the stand over allowing the boat to land on the rudder. This will result in damaging the teeth on the steering servo.

Very few in stock.

Wind Vane

$16.00 $14.00

Very light and sensitive wind vane for the top of the mast.

SKU: WIND
Posted in Miscellaneous, Nirvana, Accessories, RC Laser, Accessories, Explorer, Accessories, Dragon Force, Accessories, Accessories.
Tagged as Nirvana wind vane, RC Laser wind vane, top of mast wind vane, Wind vane.

Very light and sensitive vane, attaches to sail (RC Laser) or Masthead (Nirvana and any other boat).

This masthead vane is painted with florescent yellow on one side and day glow orange on the other to read it better from shore. It is very light weight and has a slick balancing pin in the nose. It is easily installed to the top of the A sail for the RC laser, or directly into the masthead fitting for the Nirvana. Primarily used for light wind racing conditions.

Recommended for Racing.

Speed Clips

$5.00 $3.00

Allows you to drop the mast in, slide the sail over it and clip it in – ready to sail!

SKU: LSPEED
Posted in RC Laser, Accessories, Sail/Rigging, RC Laser Showroom.
Tagged as RC Laser rigging, Speed clips, speed rigging.

Speed clips are a great timesaver each time you rig your boat to sail. Put one on each sail to connect to the sheet and one on the main sheet to connect to the boom.

Package of 5.

Sail Cover

$85.00

A nice bag to hold all of your RC Laser rigged sails.

SKU: LSAILCVR
Posted in RC Laser, Accessories, Sail/Rigging.
Bag to hold all of your rigged sails for the RC Laser.
  1. The four RC Laser sails rigged on respective masts and booms, with sail cover folded up in front. Note there are no hard ribs in the sail cover.
  2. Inside the sail cover are 3 full sized sail separator panels, shown here in gold.
  3. Insert sails into the proper compartment, with the strap side up on the cover, and the mast down. Recommend marking the bottom of each gooseneck fitting with the letter of the sail: A, B, C, D.
  4. Zip the foot end of the cover closed which secures each rig from sliding out the end of the cover.
  5. Shoulder strap makes it easy to carry your sails hands-free. Also, the cover with the sails can be hung on a single hook on any wall. At the sailing site, simply unzip the cover, and lay flat on the ground where sails can be changed easily.

CD for Race Countdown

$16.00

Two CD set, one 1 minute, One Staggered Start

SKU: START
Posted in Accessories, RC Laser, Accessories, Accessories.
Tagged as race start countdown, race start signal, staggered start CD, Start CD.

Two CD set, one 1 minute, One Staggered Start

Now a set of two CDs (1 minute & staggered start) – Professionally produced – cannon start signal with auto stop.

Our very popular Start Sequence CD has been improved in 2011 with a second CD for handicapping skippers via use of a staggered start system popularly called RYGG*. Both CDs run at the touch of the “Play” button and automatically stop after the race start. They are immediately ready to restart by the press of the “Play” button.

Both professionally recorded CDs feature a very accurate “click” track, and verbal announcement every ten seconds plus a count down of the final 10 seconds. The start signal is a terrific recording of a cannon fire.

RYGG – stands for Red, Yellow, Green, Go. After the 1 minute countdown the announcer says “Red Start, Yellow Start next” and another 10 seconds passes, before a similar statement begins the Green start sequence and then the final start. This allows clubs to use this very easy to use handicapping system to give novice sailors a head start. Each club determines how a skipper qualifies to move up. Our personal club runs races twice a week and we recalculate positions (Red, Yellow, Green) after each day. Our system is available upon request.

The handicap system is run all the time during club races, allowing any new skipper to jump in at any time and be treated fairly by the system. Enjoy this reliable club racing development handicap system, and the standard upper level regatta 1 minute start countdown.

Tiller with Bushing

$7.00

Don’t lose the bushing!

SKU: LTILLER
Posted in Hull, RC Laser.
Tagged as RC Laser tiller, RC Laser tiller with bushing, tiller.

Speed Clips

$5.00 $3.00

Allows you to drop the mast in, slide the sail over it and clip it in – ready to sail!

SKU: LSPEED
Posted in RC Laser, Accessories, Sail/Rigging, RC Laser Showroom.
Tagged as RC Laser rigging, Speed clips, speed rigging.

Speed clips are a great timesaver each time you rig your boat to sail. Put one on each sail to connect to the sheet and one on the main sheet to connect to the boom.

Package of 5.

Sail Cover

$85.00

A nice bag to hold all of your RC Laser rigged sails.

SKU: LSAILCVR
Posted in RC Laser, Accessories, Sail/Rigging.
Bag to hold all of your rigged sails for the RC Laser.
  1. The four RC Laser sails rigged on respective masts and booms, with sail cover folded up in front. Note there are no hard ribs in the sail cover.
  2. Inside the sail cover are 3 full sized sail separator panels, shown here in gold.
  3. Insert sails into the proper compartment, with the strap side up on the cover, and the mast down. Recommend marking the bottom of each gooseneck fitting with the letter of the sail: A, B, C, D.
  4. Zip the foot end of the cover closed which secures each rig from sliding out the end of the cover.
  5. Shoulder strap makes it easy to carry your sails hands-free. Also, the cover with the sails can be hung on a single hook on any wall. At the sailing site, simply unzip the cover, and lay flat on the ground where sails can be changed easily.

Sail – C Sail

$59.00 $38.00

Best for winds 18 – 28 mph.

Sail Number

Pair of Sail Numbers (one pair per sail)

SKU: LCSAIL
Posted in RC Laser, Sail/Rigging.

Sail for racing in winds over 18 mph.

The C sail (600 sq in) fits on the standard mast and is used for winds 18-28 mph. It uses the standard mast and boom even though you may want to consider getting a shorter boom (17″ is the class minimum) to use this sail in heavier winds.

Recommended for racing.

Sail – B Sail

$59.00

The standard sail for the RC Laser. All come with this sail – many need only this one sail!

SKU: LBSAIL
Posted in RC Laser, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as RC Laser B sail, RC Laser standard sail.

This sail is good for winds through 18 mph.

The RC Laser comes standard with the B sail. This sail has 710 sq in of sail area.

Sail – A Sail

$69.00

This is the only sail that needs its own mast since it is so tall.

SKU: LASAIL
Posted in RC Laser, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as A sail, low wind sail, RC Laser A Sail.

This is the sail only, no mast nor boom. This is the only sail that will NOT fit on the standard B mast.

The A sail is 949 sq in and is used to achieve full hull speed for the boat when winds speeds are below 9 mph.

Rig – A Rig

$105.00

Must have the A Mast to sail with the A Sail.

SKU: LARIG
Posted in RC Laser, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as A Mast, A Rig, LARIG, RC Laser A Sail.

Sail and mast for racing in winds under 9 mph.

The A rig includes the A sail (949 sq in) and a complete new mast (14″ taller than the standard mast). This rig is used when winds are below 9 mph to achieve full hull speed for the boat. Use the standard boom.

Recommended for racing.

Mast – B Mast

$38.00

Fits B, C and D sails.

SKU: LBMAST
Posted in RC Laser, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as B Mast, Mast B, RC Laser standard mast.

Standard mast that comes with every new RC Laser. Fits B, C and D sails.

Active RC Laser racers have three total – one fully rigged for B sail, one fully rigged for C sail and another fully rigged for D sail. Ensures quick changes for strategy!

Mast – A Mast

$48.00

Only mast that fits the height of the A Sail

SKU: LAMAST
Posted in RC Laser, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as A Mast, Mast A, Mast for A Sail, RC Laser A Mast.

For A Sail only. Used with regular boom.

Also available as part of the A Rig (better value than buying A Mast and A Sail separately).

 

Country Designator Decal for RC Laser Sails

$8.00

Class approved country designator decals as of 2011 RC Laser International Racing Rules.

SKU: LCDDECAL
Posted in RC Laser, Sail/Rigging, Decals.
Tagged as decal, RC Laser sail numbers, RC Laser country designator sail decal.

As directed by the RC Laser Class International Racing Rules – June 2011, the country designator decal specs are:

  • Height: 2.5″ tall
  • Font: Arial Rounded MT Bold
  • Color: Black

Each decal is one piece – i.e. if your country is USA, one sticker has USA on it rather than one sticker with a U, another with an S and the third with an A.

Sail numbers are sold by the pair as each sail needs two (to be seen from both sides of the sail). Order one pair for each sail you have.

Shipping is included in decal pricing.

Want to see directions for placement of the sail decals? Click here and scroll to the last couple of pages.

Sail – B Sail, Blemished

$25.00

For the RC Laser. Sail in perfect condition except for discoloration. Appears slightly yellow in areas.

SKU: LBSAILB
Posted in Sea Flea Market.
Tagged as RC Laser Blemished B Sail, sailboat, sailing.

Battery Holder

$6.00

Perfect generic battery holder. It comes with our RC Laser and fits in the Nirvana and other RC sailboats.

SKU: HOLDER
Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Nirvana, RC Laser.
Tagged as accessories, Battery Holder, electronics, holds batteries on board, nirvana, rc laser, sailing.
Holds 4 AA cells.

Servo, Steering – 311

$11.00

Only class legal steering servo for the RC Laser or upgrade for the Nirvana (class legal for Nirvana as well).

SKU: 311
Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Nirvana, RC Laser.
Tagged as 311, RC Laser servo, RC Laser steering servo.

The Hitec HS-311 Servo.

Steering Servo for the RC Laser and can also be used as an upgrade for the Nirvana Steering Servo.

Servo, Sail – 785

$49.00

Only servo authorized by the RC Laser class rule.

SKU: L785
Posted in Electronics, RC Laser.
Tagged as 785, RC Laser servo, sail servo.
This servo is the only servo authorized by the RC Laser Class rule. Also the boat is molded to accept only this servo. It is strong for sailing in the heaviest of winds and has an excellent reputation for durability.

Charger

$17.00

NX83 Delta Peak Charger – for your rechargeable RC needs

*Please note, this will not work with the transmitter that comes with the 2014 Nirvana as there is no place to plug it in. We apologize.

SKU: CHARGER
Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Accessories.
Tagged as NX83, rechargeable batteries, Transmitter, trickle charger, spektrum, JST.

NX83 Delta Peak Charger. This is a trickle charger that brings TX and RX cells up to full strength over night, and then continues to hold all batteries at peak strength without fear of overcharging.

For the RC Laser:
One charger lead plugs into either the 5-pack RC Laser rechargeable battery or the battery holder for the receiver. The other lead plugs into the transmitter. Therefore, no batteries need to be handled at all. Lights on the charger indicate that proper connection is made.

For the Nirvana (not 2014 version*), Seawind and most other RC sailboats:
One charger lead plugs into the battery holder for the receiver. The other lead plugs into the transmitter. Therefore, no batteries need to be handled at all. Lights on the charger indicate that proper connection is made.

*We are sorry to say that the 2014 Nirvana transmitter does NOT have a place to plug the charger into.

The lead that plugs into the transmitters has an option for either positive (most transmitters) or negative (Spektrum transmitters). Check to see if your transmitter has a place to plug it in and you are all set!

Check out our recharge kits – great way to get batteries and charger at a special price.
RC Laser 8 (includes 5 pack for boat plus 8 AA for TX)
RC Laser 4 (includes 5 pack for boat plus 4 AA for TX)
Nirvana 8 (includes 8 AA for boat plus 8 AA for TX) – also for Seawind, Fairwind and other RC sailboats
Nirvana 4* (includes 4 AA for boat plus 8 AA for TX) – also for Seawind, Fairwind and other RC sailboats
*2014 Nirvana does NOT have a place to plug the charger into – we apologize.

SailRC is not a warranty service station for any electronics company. We are pretty good at troubleshooting most of our electronics but even we have a hard time keeping up with new technology. We will troubleshoot your issue on the phone and if we cannot resolve your issue, we will send you directly to a manufacturer’s service rep to get a resolution (either repair or replacement). We will NOT be sending you overseas to any manufacturer – all service centers we use are in the US!