Nirvana Ready To Sail – Blue


Nirvana has a huge history in club sailing in the US. Since the first introduction in 2003, it has been a “best buy” as attributed to over 12,000 Nirvanas being sold in the US to date.

In 2012, the Nirvana Class held their first national championships bringing Nirvana racing to the “bigs.” What this means is Nirvana has what it takes – excellent scale “looks,” a great well-proportioned design that produces agile and powerful performance, and the forgiving durability of well-made and assembled parts.

Ready to Sail means this boat comes with all electronics including the radio transmitter and receiver. All you need is batteries.

Make sure to read the specifications and description below and the “See Trial” article in the Skipper’s Log.

For a limited time, we are offering free shipping to any address in the continental US via UPS Ground.

Nirvana is available in three hull colors: Blue, Red and Yellow. 

Posted in Nirvana, The Nirvana.
Tagged as nirvana, nirvana, Nirvana II, Nirvana RC Sailboat, RC sailboat, RC sailing, sailboat.

After a short hiatus, the Nirvana is back. Yep, this is the same Nirvana that was first produced in 2003, and that has enjoyed huge popularity in the US.

The new version of Nirvana has some very subtle tweaks, most would be unnoticeable to the average sailor. Certainly, this 2014 version is class legal for racing and still maintains her scale good looks. Even though there was a period when this boat was dubbed Nirvana II, she is simply referred to today as Nirvana.

Nirvana remains a value leader with a great design and “big boat” look, as well as remarkable race-course performance. Nirvana is a true one-design boat. This means that Nirvanas are never obsoleted by newer production. All parts remain interchangeable.

Yes, we have attended to a couple of troublesome parts that seemed to break in rough weather or severe racing conditions. These parts we re-formulated so they are much stronger.

This 32” model is produced to look like a real sailboat, from the extremely durable polyester sails to the look of her cabin trunk. Also note the deep fin keel with lead bulb that allows this boat to sail well in high winds (up to 22 mph). No other model in this category can come close in performance or appearance. This model will not capsize.

The rig, keel, and rudder are all quick release so the boat may be reduced to an easy-to-carry package in a moment. When displayed on her boat stand (included), she is 32” long, 64” high (bottom of keel to top of mast), and nearly 8” wide. Nirvana is available in three colors. Only 12 AA batteries are needed to sail this boat for up to 5 hours.

You will absolutely love this boat whether you display on your mantle or race it in your club fleet – or both! Make sure to read my current Nirvana “See Trial” posted now on the Skipper’s log.

  • 32” Long, Ready-to-Sail, not a kit
  • All electronics included and installed
  • “Quik rig” system allows quick and easy unrigging
  • Polyester sails that will not stretch, tear, or mildew
  • Self-righting, lead ballasted deep keel
  • Inexpensive interchangeable parts
  • Includes display stand

Buying in quantity makes a difference with SailRC. Get together with friends, community or marina to buy a higher quantity and receive greater savings. All must ship at the same time to the same address using a single payment.

Quantity Price Per Boat Savings per Boat
1 $299
2-3 $272 $27
4-7 $244  $55
8+ $231  $68

Length overall: 32 inches

Bottom of keel to top of mast: 64 inches

maximum width: 7.75 inches

Sailing weight w/batteries: 5.5 pounds

Depth of water needed to sail: 13″

Sail Area
Total of main and jib: 525 square inches

For more expanded information on the features of the Nirvana, check out a couple of articles:

  • Features
  • Nirvana Class International Racing Rule

First, and foremost, we stand behind the products that we sell and service. The way we do that tells a lot about our company ethic and unending desire to serve our customers.


Satisfaction Guarantee

Your satisfaction is guaranteed. If you are not satisfied with any product purchased directly from SailRC, please return it for a refund based on the following terms:

  • Product must be returned (ship date) within 30 days of original receipt of product.
  • Product must be in resalable condition. That includes repacking of all parts in original packing, as originally packed, with complete paperwork included, and with no indication of use.
  • Shipping costs are not refundable.
  • Return shipping damage is the responsibility of the returning customer.
  • Restocking fee – 10% of cost of goods



SailRC is NOT the manufacturer of any product we sell. Therefore, we do not carry the ultimate responsibility for the warranty. However, we do everything possible to insure that you get prompt and fair service.

Specifically – we want you to contact us first with any product question or problem – see Contact Page. Steve will arrange a phone call to move quickly through your issue and provide exact instructions.

SailRC may intervene between you and the manufacturer if we have a warranty support arrangement with that manufacturer.

Warranty Statement: Warranty on products sold and shipped by SailRC covers failure of any part that is caused by defect in workmanship or materials when the product is used as intended*.

*Use as intended Model boats and boat equipment are intended to sail on water. They are not intended to withstand collisions with each other or any other obstruction. Electronics are not intended to get wet!

What is not covered Damage caused by misuse, abuse, improper care, accident, modification, shipping, wear and tear, or repair by anyone other than the manufacturer or their representative. Damage to metal parts due to use in salt water.

Warranty Fine Print

Registration & Proof of Purchase Proof of purchase is critical to a warranty claim. Please register your boat with SailRC within one month of purchase and keep your original receipt.

Electronics SailRC is not a warranty service station for any electronics company. We are pretty good at troubleshooting most of our electronics but even we have a hard time keeping up with new technology. We will troubleshoot your issue on the phone and if we cannot resolve your issue, we will send you directly to a manufacturer’s service rep to get a resolution (either repair or replacement). We will NOT be sending you overseas to any manufacturer – all service centers we use are in the US!

Shipping Damage All items shipped by SailRC are insured for full value. If your boat, or accessories, are damaged during shipping from us to you, it is important to contact SailRC immediately for claims processing.

Important If something is damaged in shipping, most of the time the outside box shows evidence of rough handling. We need pictures of damage to the box.

Again, we are not responsible for damage in shipping but we facilitate getting a resolution in your favor.

Warranty Shipping – The customer is responsible for all costs of shipping a warranty item to and from a warranty station.

No Return If a part fails, many times we can made a decision based on your photograph sent via email. In this case, we may avoid having to return the broken part for review. So take good pictures and send to

Replacement Parts Any shipping involved with warranty parts is paid by the owner.

If SailRC ships a warranty replacement part before a faulty part is returned to SailRC, or the manufacturer, the owner will be charged for the replacement. When the part is properly returned and deemed replaceable under warranty, then a credit will be issued to owner’s credit card.

Term We do not set the term of warranty service on our products but we sometimes offer extended warranty coverage. Below are just some of the warranty terms for the products we handle.

Nirvana High Definition Radio Control (HDRC) manufactures Nirvana in China. They warrant each boat for 90 days from the verified date of  purchase. In North America, SailRC manages all Nirvana warranty services.

Nirvana’s Host of Features

Over the years, I have been pleased to be involved with the upgrades to this design. Most of these upgrades are to make the boat more robust, and easier to maintain.

Below are the features of this boat that stand it apart from other RC sailboats in this price range. These features are definitely owner benefits right out of the box.

The Box itself is a work of art. Packing a ready-built sailboat is difficult at best, but Nirvana makes it look easy. Inside the box is a full size foam clamshell-pack molded to accept each part of the boat in its own secure place. That includes the transmitter. Even the top of the two-part mast comes mounted in the top of the mainsail, and fit in the box in such a way as to allow the sail to curve around the rounded end of the clamshell to protect it from creasing. Polyester film makes a terrific sail, but it holds creases – thus the extra attention to the design and installation of these special sails. Loosen a few pieces of tape, and assemble according to little letter tags stuck to the pieces – all according to the diagrams in the manual, and you are out sailing in 30 minutes!

Sails Nirvana sails are made of the same material pioneered by the RC Laser in 1996. They are made from a polyester film bonded to a polyester fiber. The result is a sail that will not tear, stretch or mildew. So the only enemy is sunshine.  However, even sailing every day, these sails will last for many years. Most other model sails in this price range are almost throwaways – but not these sails, they are terrific.

Attractive Oh yeah, a lot of boats are nice looking, but my ongoing attraction to this RC sailboat is that it looks like a real racer/cruiser like the majority of sailors have crewed on all their lives. A cabin trunk with portholes, realistic main hatch decals, and a cockpit with seat boards. How cool. And the toe rail sets off the deck line and gives that real-boat look. (Toe rails keep real sailors from sliding off the edge of the deck) And the paint job is just terrific, shiny and bright. The only thing I personally don’t like are all the Megatech and Nirvana decals all over the place. So the first thing I do is to peel them all off and leave the boat looking sleek instead of like a floating billboard.

In the picture above you see the owner’s boat name on the side (having removed many of the original decals). BTW, you can remove the sticky from the decals with Goo Gone, works great and it doesn’t damage the paint finish.


Keel The first thing that struck me about the keel was how deep it is. It’s simple. To keep a sailboat on it’s feet, you need a counterbalance to the wind in the sails. The deeper the keel, the less lead you need at the bottom. The less weight the boat carries, the faster it will go through the water. So deep is beautiful! Oh, and the lead is cased in a hard plastic shell to protect it (lead is soft), and to give it a smooth surface. Very nice touch.

Rigging Did I say modern yet? Well this boat has a modern rig – meaning it has the high aspect (tall) rig of the go-fast full sized boats of today ~ it’s authentic, cool looking, efficient, and powerful. Remember what I said about the deep keel?? This is the rig to match. And it is clean, aerodynamically speaking, with a foil sleeve along the leading edges of both sails. No other boat has that.

Mast & Booms I love the sheet length adjuster arrangement (easily sets the sheet length for proper trimming by the servos). And the spars (mast and booms), are gorgeous. Highly polished black carbon fiber reinforced tubes are seeeexxxxxy! And they are strong and light. Not some wimpy aluminum tube like you get on others. The mast is two part and it is tapered, getting smaller at the top ~ something else you won’t find on any other boats in the price range.

Balanced Unlike many little boats (boats under 36″), this boat is amazingly well balanced. Only a racing skipper knows what this means to performance. But to the first time boat owner it means easy control with the boat doing all the right things when the skipper makes a mistake. This boat is a joy to sail and will leave other slugs in her wake as she slides gracefully through the water.

Sits Well   This is no good term for this feature – the boat just sits in the water well. Upright and alert, properly ballasted fore and aft. This hull has a “bustle” in her “git-along” that allows her to carry her weight aft (which helps keep the bow up when sailing downwind) and yet she puts her hull lines to work sailing to windward in just the right way. What am I talking about??? I won’t bore you with the technology here, but when you see this boat sail, you will know what I mean.

Performance Nirvana is really impressive. I did all the test sailing against a race warrior CR 914. The boat points very well, tacks fast and clean, tracks like she is riding a rail, and has bursts of speed to equal much larger boats. And down wind when many models look like submarines in full dive mode, she keeps her head up and flies over the waves.

Tell us how you feel Steve! – Do you get the idea I am impressed with this boat??? Well, I have sailed just about all of the models on the market at one time or another, and I race some of the best at the national level. But when I get my Nirvana out, I am always impressed with her good manners, her good looks, and her surprisingly good performance. You will love this boat – or I will take it back, simple as that.

Nirvana Race Tuning

Nirvanas are uniformly produced and regulated by a rule that prevents owners from modifying their boats in such a way as to gain a boat speed advantage.  Therefore, to get the best boat speed for the conditions, you need to understand tuning.

Tuning is a skipper skill that is learned and perfected with practice. Not all successful sailors agree on every aspect of tuning, but we generally agree on the basics.  Exact settings are not useful – it is the concepts that count, along with building experience.



I have laid out some terminology so that we are all talking about the same parts.

Stays – Stays run fore and aft on the Nirvana. They adjust the top of the mast forward and back. The forward stay is called the forestay! How odd. It can also be correctly called a jib stay in this case because it runs through the luff of the jib.

Shrouds – Often referred to as side stays but that is generally because you have forgotten the word Shroud. These lines/wires support the mast sideways.

Sheets – These are the lines that trim the sails. The line to the jib is the jib sheet, and the line to the mainsail is the mainsheet.

Outhauls – These are lines attached to the clew (lower, rear corner) of each sail. We have two lines attached to each clew on each sail. The aft one is the outhaul, the other is a leech tension line, or take down. Outhauls on Nirvanas are normally attached to O-rings on their respective booms.

Halyards – The line that holds the sail up.  In models we don’t actually have running halyards, per se, since we never lower the sails.  Instead we just tie them up, but for reference, that is the halyard. These lines are attached to the top (head) of each sail.

Downhauls – Downhauls are not generally needed on Nirvanas.  The stiffness of polyethylene sails does not allow the sail to bunch up along the luff, nor is the downhaul capable of stretching the luff (polyethylene does not stretch).  If used at all, a downhaul is simply a preventer to keep the luff of the sail down in place.  There is no downhaul on the Nirvana as produced.

Rake – Rake indicates the lean of the mast fore and aft. Not to be mistaken with mast bend.

Twist – If you look up (or down) the leach (trailing edge) of each sail, twist is the curve from side to side. A lot of twist appears as an “S”, where very little twist is nearly straight.

Slot – When sailing to windward (into the wind), slot is the amount of space the wind has to pass between the jib and main.

Balance – For the purposes of this article, balance refers to how well the boat self steers. A perfectly balanced boat has a small, but noticeable, demand to turn into the wind if the steering is left neutral. See Weather Helm.

Weather Helm – is the tendency of the boat to turn into the wind – actually the amount of weather helm is measured in the amount of effort put into holding the boat in a straight line. If you are turning your rudder any sizeable amount to prevent the boat from turning into the wind, the rudder is causing unnecessary drag slowing the boat down. To correct, you need to “balance” the boat.

Sails – The three edges of the sail are: leading edge – luff; trailing edge – leech; bottom edge – foot.  The three corners are: top (luff/leech) – head; bottom (luff/foot) – tack; bottom (leech/foot) – clew.

Draft – In this tuning article, draft is the amount of belly/camber placed in the sails by moving the outhaul connection on the boom forward ~ not the other meaning for draft (the amount of water that your boat needs to keep from running aground).

Boom Vang – When the wind strikes the sail, the boom wants to rise, allowing the sail to “twist” out of shape. The jib pivot attachment provides a cantilever effect to keep the rear end of the jib boom from rising but the mainsail needs a physical line connected to the boom and the bottom of the mast. That is the boom vang.


Tuning Concepts

These concepts are the same for most boats whether models or crewed boats.

Balance – For optimum performance, a boat must be balanced so that it has a slight tendency to turn into the wind if steering is left in a neutral position. If the boat turns away from the wind, or turns violently into the wind, balance is not correct.

Balance is affected by quite a number of variables. But we will only address those variables that you can adjust easily, mainly the rigging and the sail set.

The overall effort of the sails is consolidated to a single point called the “center of effort” (CE).  For you, the CE is someplace, and it is not worth figuring it out.  All you know is that you can adjust the CE forward and aft by changing the angle of the rig.

The boat itself has a center of collective forces, but you cannot change that as the position and size of the rudder, keel, and the shape of the hull are all fixed in the original design.

So all you can adjust is the rake (lean) of the mast, and the trim of the sails (draft, angle).

Specifically, there are three adjustments that move the center of effort of the sails fore and aft – the draft of the sails, the rake of the mast, and the position of the jib (forestay).

Rake – If you find that your boat has too much weather helm (wants to round into the wind violently), your rig may be raked too far aft.   (top of mast behind the foot of the mast). If your boat tends to turn away from the wind when your steering is centered, then you have lee helm. In this case, your rake is too far forward.

I highly recommend with Nirvana that you stand the mast straight up and down to start, as best you can see it – not leaning forward or aft. In this position, the boat is fairly well balanced in most conditions.  Step back from the boat and view the mast in relation to the keel fin.  They should be parallel.

To adjust rake, concentrate on the direction you are moving the head of the mast.  Move forward if you want to lessen weather helm, aft to increase.  How much is the question.

You can only know this by actually sailing the boat.  It helps to have a steady breeze the day you experiment so that the wind velocity factor doesn’t muddy the waters.

One thing I like to do is test the extremes, so I will normally rake the mast forward about an inch from vertical.  That should produce a marked difference in helm.  And then slowly move the rake aft until I get the desired gradual heading to windward with the rudder in neutral position.

Jib Pivot – We all jest over what the pivot line that connects the jib boom to the foredeck is called. Some call it the jib tack, some the jib takedown or downhaul, some (like me) simply call it the jib pivot. Whatever you call it, the deck fitting it attaches to cannot be moved (by class regulation), but the connection to the jib boom can be made adjustable. As the boat is delivered, the jib pivot line is tied through a hole in the jib boom, but you can substitute a string ring connector to help with what follows.

If the pivot is further back on the boom, then that means the sail is further forward in relation to the boat. The sail being further forward moves the center of effort of the jib further forward, which, in turn, moves the entire sail plan’s center of effort further forward. Remember that moving the center of effort further forward lessens weather helm, the same as raking forward.

Draft – Drafting your sails is a double-edged sword. In light winds, you need to draft your sails (put belly in them) because these sails have no shape of their own. Curvature (draft) is power to drive the boat through the wind and water in lighter winds.   Another aspect of draft is that it moves the center of effort aft – increasing weather helm.  This is fine in light winds but when the wind starts to blow harder, if you don’t remove draft from your sails, you will find your boat fighting to head into the wind (weather helm) and she will bog down with all the rudder drag.

To put draft into your sails, move the clew adjustment ring on the booml forward.  This will allow the foot of the sail to develop more curve (camber) while maintaining leech tension. On the Nirvana, as initially rigged, the outhaul goes to an O ring which you slide forward. The leech tension line stays a fixed length (around the boom and through the clew grommet)

Drafting is done on both sails with more draft used in light winds and less and less as the wind velocity increases. You will know when to reduce the draft in your sails by the trouble you are having steering the boat.

Sail Twist/Boom Vang – The rig on the jib boom of a model is considerably different that on a crewed boat.  The jib pivot is connected part way aft on the boom.  Therefore the tension on the forestay at the forward end of the jib boom uses the jib pivot to cantilever tension into the leech of the jib which helps with sail shape in most wind conditions.

Often we talk about leech tension on the mainsail using the term “twist” ~ more twist or less twist. So let’s make sure you know what you are trying to do with the amount of twist you allow.

Generally, in light winds you want very little twist in the leech of your mainsail. That is because the leech of the sail is your driving force to windward and you need the sail from bottom to top. As the wind increases and you start sailing the boat with the rail down, it is wise to add more twist. This allows the top sections of the sail leech to “open”, spilling wind from the top of the sail. This keeps the driving force of the bottom of the sail while spilling wind up high where it does more to heel the boat compared to driving it.

Two things affect twist in the mainsail. The first is the angle of trim on the outhaul. If equal tension is placed on the foot and the leech of the sail (45 degree angle on outhaul), then the leech of the sail will tend to twist more because the leech of the sail is much longer than the foot.  So in light winds, sliding the outhaul forward a bit will put more tension on the leech than on the foot, keeping the twist in the sail to a minimum.

Second is the tension on the boom vang. The boom vang holds the boom down which maintains the tension you have set in the leech of the. Without the boom vang, the boom will rise, slacking the leech and cause the sail to lose all power.  When talking about the jib, the jib pivot cantilever acts like a boom vang keeping the leech taught as the wind increases.

The only variation to keeping the boom vang set tight is in rough seas or puffy wind. In these conditions, the boom vang should be slackened slightly to allow the sail to twist (breath). As the boat hobby-horses through the waves or is hit by puffs, the sail will twist and straighten which pumps the boat through the water, while keeping her on her feet.


Boat Speed

As I mentor other model sailors, the thing I emphasize most is BOAT SPEED!!! Without boat speed it doesn’t make any difference how good a tactician you are, or how well you have tuned your boat.

So what is boat speed – how do you measure it? Unfortunately when you are out sailing by yourself, you don’t always recognize subtle differences in boat speed. So you usually need to be sailing with another boat close by so you can gauge relative boat speed. There are some visual clues that you should learn, things you can see when you are not right next to another boat.

Heel angle – Often when you are sailing to windward, the angle of heel is an indicator of whether you are sailing with your sails at the right angle of attack (angle to the oncoming wind).  It is possible to sail on an angle too close to the wind, but still with the sails not luffing.  In this case, it is the change in angle of heel that is the indicator.  So whenever your boat is sailing along and then stands up, only two things can be the reason.  One is that the wind, or the boat, has changed direction and the pressure in the sails has reduced because the angle of attack is not correct.  You will hear the term “pinching” to describe sailing too close to the wind.  Your reaction must be to turn away from the direction of the wind slightly and see if the boat heels again and picks up speed.

The other reason for an abrupt decrease in angle of heel is that the wind has momentarily decreased.  So if you turn away from the wind as above, and the heel does not increase, resume your original heading until the wind returns.

Unfortunately, observing the angle of heel does not help sailors understand that they are not pointing high enough (close enough) to the angle of the wind.  In this case, your sails are full, and they look good, and you have an angle of heel based on the wind velocity.  Even though the sails become less efficient in this position (to big an angle of attack), it is not boat speed that is the problem but the boat direction.  So if you are sailing with other boats, and you are sailing at a different angle to the wind than a boat near you, and about the same speed, the boat sailing closer to the wind will clearly arrive at the windward mark first.

Both the issue of sailing too close to the wind (small angle of attack), and two far off the wind (wide angle of attack) is almost impossible to read in the sails.  In the “too close” to the wind issue, use heel to help you.  In “too far off”, you must rely on others sailing near you to see if you are close enough to the wind.  Of course a good technique when sailing to windward is to occasionally head closer to the wind to see for sure that you are maintaining your proper angle of attack.  If you head up and your boat stands up, you know you were sailing at the best angle of attack, and you should immediately fall off and continue sailing.  This is often called “feeling” for the wind.

I have not mentioned telltales.  Properly placed telltales can help you with being too far off the wind, but do practically nothing to help you with being “too close” to the wind.  When you are too far off the wind telltales attached to the jib will show you by “winding up” the leeward telltale.  When both jib telltales are streaming you know you are close enough to the wind, but unfortunately, they will both stream if you are headed right into the wind!

Side-slip. If you see your boat going slightly sideways compared to similar boats nearby – we sometimes call this “crabbing”, you need to slack your sails a little, turn away from the wind slightly, and get your boat speed up. Proper boat speed keeps the fins in the water (keel and rudder) from stalling. When the boat slows and you have wind pressure in the sails, the fins can stall causing side-slip or crabbing. You will learn to see this and avoid it.

Over steering – Many sailors slow their progress with way too much steering.  Practice steering with a steady hand so that your boat changes direction without jerky movements.  Rapid steering adjustments are just like putting on the brakes because when you turn the rudder quickly, it drags through the water momentarily.  Besides, there is less distance between two points if you sail a straight line!

Practice, practice, practice – Adjustments to your boat and proper handling based on your visuals of the boat, all take practice. NOTHING takes the place of “stick time”. The more you sail, the more you will learn the visual clues talked about here. You will learn the adjustments we have spoken about above because you will have done some trial and error. And, you will have learned to keep your Boat Speed up so that your boat will handle better and win more races for you. Good luck.

Your comments or questions are always welcomed, as I can never seem to remember everything I want to write.  But these guides will help you get to the top of the fleet if you practice, practice, practice!!!!

Nirvana in Salt Water?

The Megatech manual says “no!”, but we say “yes!”

We (SailRC) have always contended that Nirvana is as suitable in salt water as any boat in her price range, if not even more suitable.  “Price range” has to do with the quality of the “stainless” steel used in this boat, and some of the other corrosive metals like the rudder post.  The composite construction of the hull/deck, keel, rudder, spars and sails is as good as boats three times the expense.

Electronics do get wet in most sailboats, even very expensive ones – so you need to adopt procedures for maintenance that maintain electronics that are prone to getting wet or working in a damp atmosphere.

Getting wet with salt water and fresh water causes the same immediate issues.  The difference with salt water is that when the water dries the salt remains to attract more moisture.  So sailing in salt water adds the extra maintenance step to rinse salt water off boat (and electronics if they have gotten wet) before drying.

I carry a small fresh water spray bottle to wash salt water off the electronics if they get wet while sailing.  Then after preliminary drying, I always stick a hairdryer (on low) in the electronics compartment for 15-20 minutes to completely heat and dry all the electrical fittings and servos.

Another trick for maintaining electronics is to drown them in Corrosion X at least once a season to keep a protective barrier on your working electrics.  Do NOT use WD 40 or similar.  Corrosion X is the product and it has recently been sold by Home Depot.

The rudder post on Nirvana is a problem, especially around salt water, because of the dissimilar metals used.  The rudder post is a mild steel, and the shaft log is brass.  If not lubricated faithfully, the post will freeze into the shaft log (tube), requiring considerable effort to free and repair.  I make sure to remove the rudder every day or two when sailing in salt water to make sure the lubricant I use is evident and doing the job. ALWAYS lubricate before storing for more than a week!  Any light grease is good, I use Vaseline.

The other metal parts on the boat (screws, wires, etc) may “bleed” a little if not cleaned and dried after sailing, but that is more aesthetic damage than physical.

Bottom line, you can safely enjoy your boat in salt water – it just takes a little care afterwards (as with all boats) to keep certain parts operational.

Nirvana Class International Racing Rule

Published 2/1/12
The radio controlled Nirvana was designed and engineered for production by Jon Elmaleh in 2003. Nirvana is produced by Megatech International Inc, hereinafter referred to as the builder.

The Nirvana is a One-Design class model sailboat whose specifications are regulated by the builder to insure uniform performance and quality control worldwide. This rule only pertains to those owners who wish to race their boat.




A.1 One-Design Clause – The primary purpose of this class rule is to regulate all Nirvana sailboats throughout the world, used for racing, to be equal in all characteristics that affect performance.
Modifications -No modification, removal, or additions shall be made to any manufactured boat part unless it is specifically detailed in this document.
Manufactured Standard -Only boat parts manufactured by the builder (OEM) shall be used. (Hull, Keel, Rudder, Mast, Booms, Hatches, Cockpit seats, Sails)
A.2 Definitions
IRCNCA – International Nirvana Class Association
RRS – Racing Rules Of Sailing
MT – Megatech International- licensed builder
ISAF – International Sailing Federation
NA – National Authority
English – The official language of the class is English and in case of dispute over translation the English text shall prevail.
Clarification -the word “shall” is mandatory and the word “may” is permissive.

A.3 Authority – The builder is the final authority for the terms and wording of this rule.

Rules Committee– – The builder may appoint a rules committee of knowledgeable boat owners. This committee shall advise the builder on rules issues raised by owners.
Owner Input – Any class boat owner, or group of owners, may propose a rule change, or rules discrepancy, to the Rules Committee for consideration. The Rules committee may propose such rule changes to the builder.
Legal Responsibility – Neither the ISAF, nor any NA, nor any recognized measurer is under any legal responsibility with respect to these class rules for accuracy of measurement, and no claim arising from them will be entertained.
Certificate – No measurement certificate is requiredhowever, boats are subject to inspection by the race committee at any time during a regatta or series to determine compliance with these regulations.
B.1 Administration of the Class
Country or Regional Class Secretaries shall be appointed by the builder, or may be elected by a vote of class members when a sizeable, builder recognized, organization is formed in that particular country/region.
Communications – Communications to class members on class business shall be by web site, national affiliation publications and email where available.
C.1 Electronic Equipment
Servos – No servo shall be modified electronically or mechanically from its factory default performance torque, speed and travel. However, other servos may be installed as long as their performance factors are not greater than listed here:
Sail Servo – Max torque in oz/in = 122/153 (4.8v/6.0v); Speed = .24/.20 (4.8v/6.0v) Only arm winches are authorized
Steer Servo – No restrictions.
On-Board Batteries – Nirvana electronics shall be powered by either 4 ea alkaline AA cells (6 v), or 4 ea NiCad/Nickel Metal Hydride rechargeable AA cells (4.8 v).
Antenna – The receiver antenna may be installed in any manner.
C.2 Hull & Deck
Hull Finish – The hull may be repaired, sanded, filled, and painted as long as the hull shape is not modified from the original in any way.
Hull & Deck Decoration – Any means is suitable – self-adhesive letters, tape, decals, or paint, may be used on the deck and hull.
Bow Bumpers – Class legal bow bumpers may be required by local authority for any competitive sailing.  There is only one class legal bow bumper.
Drain Hole – Drain holes may be installed in the bow or stern for draining the hull.
C.3 Underwater Appendages 
Keel and Rudder – The keel fin and bulb, and the rudder may be sanded and painted. The shape of the keel and rudder shall not be changed in any way. No filet is authorized where the keel fin enters the ballast or the hull.
C.4 Rigging
Rigging Lines – Lines used for mainsheet, jib sheet, outhauls, halyards, topping lifts, downhauls, boom vang, stays and shrouds may be of any material deemed suitable by the boat owner.
Booms – Standard booms may be shortened for better clearance but sail dimensions of the standard sails may not be altered. Additional sheet adjustment holes may be added to the boom. Alternate fittings for sail attachment and adjustment may be installed.
Fasteners – Clips or hooks of any kind may be used to fasten lines but should be of closed design so they do not catch rigging of near-by boats.
Mast Head Fitting (Crane) – The mast head crane may be drilled to provide alternate backstay attachment positions.
Gooseneck & Boom Vang Fittings – The gooseneck and boom vang mast fittings shall be used, however, the gooseneck swivel and the boom vang mechanism may be altered or substituted. The location of boom fitting, for the boom vang, shall not be changed.
Jib Swivel Fitting – The jib swivel deck fitting shall not be moved. The swivel, itself, may be of any configuration and length, and the location of the attachment point on the jib boom may be adjustable.
Topping Lifts – Topping lifts may be fitted to main and jib booms.
Down Hauls – Downhaul lines may be attached to each sail via one grommet at a time.
Halyards – Halyards may be attached to each sail via one grommet at a time.
Sheet Exit Hole – The location, size and shape of the exit hole in the electronics compartment starboard wall, through which the sheets pass, may be modified.
Sheet Attachment to Boom – Sheets may be attached to the boom by any fittings or method.
Shroud Rail Fittings – Shroud attachment fittings, and location on the rail, are optional, but shall be no further aft than 17″ measured from the front of the toe rail to the eye of the fitting, measured along the toe rail.
Wind Vanes & Tell Tales – Any type of wind direction indicator may be attached to the top of the mast, and tell tales may be used on the sails at owner’s descretion.
Attachments – Wind Flow indicators may be attached to any point of the sails and may be made of any material.
Repair – Sail damage may be repaired as long as repair does not stiffen or alter the size of the sail.
Sail Numbers – Nirvana sail numbers are a specific size, color and font and are located on the sails as specified in the Sail Number addendum attached to these rules.
Sail Graphics – Sails may be decorated using decals, tape or markers, but such markings shall not interfere with easy identification of the sail numbers or the class logo. Sail decorations may not significantly stiffen or change the shape/size of the sail.
Class Logo – The font, size, and location are as designated on the Sail Number addendum, when adopted.
Grommets – Grommets may be installed at any location on the clew, tack, or head, of either sail, however only one grommet at each corner of the sail may be used at one time.
Battens – Battens are optional, but if used shall be positioned, and be of the same dimensions, as on the standard OEM sails.


Crew – The crew shall consist of one person, but may be more with special permission of the Race Committee.
Minimum Weight – A minimum weight shall be determined. As soon as the appropriate investigation is complete, a suitable minimum weight will be designated. In the interim, all boats will sail with all original equipment on board except for those exceptions listed in C. above.
Sails – Smaller sails are being designed and tested to determine suitability for heavy weather sailing.


Product Specifications

Length overall: 32 inches

Bottom of keel to top of mast: 64 inches

maximum width: 7.75 inches

Sailing weight w/batteries: 5.5 pounds

Depth of water needed to sail: 13″

Sail Area
Total of main and jib: 525 square inches

For more expanded information on the features of the Nirvana, check out a couple of articles:

Boat Stand for the Nirvana


To display your Nirvana

Custom-made wooden scissor stand with keel support.

2 left as of July 9, 2013.

Wind Vane

$16.00 $14.00

Very light and sensitive wind vane for the top of the mast.

Posted in Miscellaneous, Nirvana, Accessories, RC Laser, Accessories, Explorer, Accessories, Dragon Force, Accessories, Accessories.
Tagged as Nirvana wind vane, RC Laser wind vane, top of mast wind vane, Wind vane.

Very light and sensitive vane, attaches to sail (RC Laser) or Masthead (Nirvana and any other boat).

This masthead vane is painted with florescent yellow on one side and day glow orange on the other to read it better from shore. It is very light weight and has a slick balancing pin in the nose. It is easily installed to the top of the A sail for the RC laser, or directly into the masthead fitting for the Nirvana. Primarily used for light wind racing conditions.

Recommended for Racing.

Sail Numbers for Nirvana Sails


Class approved sail numbers for the Nirvana.


Posted in Nirvana, Sail/Rigging, Accessories.
Tagged as decal, RC Laser sail numbers, sail numbers decals.

As directed by the Nirvana Racing Rules, the sail number specs are:

  • Height: 3″ tall
  • Font: Arial Rounded MT Bold
  • Color: Black

Each sail number is one piece – i.e. if your sail number is 24, one sticker has 24 on it rather than one sticker with a 2 and one sticker with an 4.

Sail numbers are sold by the pair as each jib sail needs two (to be seen from both sides of the sail).

If you are buying a new boat, each boat receives a hull number of which the last two numbers are your sail numbers. We will provide the 2 digit sail number to the sign maker for your sail numbers.

If you already have a boat, please signify what sail numbers we need to print for you. Sail numbers are 2 digit.

NOTE: Shipping is included in the price for decals.

CD for Race Countdown


Two CD set, one 1 minute, One Staggered Start

Posted in Accessories, RC Laser, Accessories, Accessories.
Tagged as race start countdown, race start signal, staggered start CD, Start CD.

Two CD set, one 1 minute, One Staggered Start

Now a set of two CDs (1 minute & staggered start) – Professionally produced – cannon start signal with auto stop.

Our very popular Start Sequence CD has been improved in 2011 with a second CD for handicapping skippers via use of a staggered start system popularly called RYGG*. Both CDs run at the touch of the “Play” button and automatically stop after the race start. They are immediately ready to restart by the press of the “Play” button.

Both professionally recorded CDs feature a very accurate “click” track, and verbal announcement every ten seconds plus a count down of the final 10 seconds. The start signal is a terrific recording of a cannon fire.

RYGG – stands for Red, Yellow, Green, Go. After the 1 minute countdown the announcer says “Red Start, Yellow Start next” and another 10 seconds passes, before a similar statement begins the Green start sequence and then the final start. This allows clubs to use this very easy to use handicapping system to give novice sailors a head start. Each club determines how a skipper qualifies to move up. Our personal club runs races twice a week and we recalculate positions (Red, Yellow, Green) after each day. Our system is available upon request.

The handicap system is run all the time during club races, allowing any new skipper to jump in at any time and be treated fairly by the system. Enjoy this reliable club racing development handicap system, and the standard upper level regatta 1 minute start countdown.

Tiller with Set Screw


Fits over the top of the Nirvana rudder to hold it in place and to allow the servo to connect with the rudder.

Posted in Hull, Nirvana.
Tagged as nirvana tiller, Nirvana tiller with set screw.

Keel with Ballast


Keel with ballast for the Nirvana.

Posted in Nirvana, Hull, Nirvana Showroom.
Tagged as keel with ballast, Nirvana keel.

Let us know your choice in the comment section of the checkout. If we have that color, we will send it. If not, we will send what we have.

It is class legal to paint your hull, rudder and keel.

Includes wing latch, keel fin, ballast and ballast cover assembled.



The Nirvana hull without electronics installed. Fittings are included.

Posted in Nirvana, Hull.
Tagged as Nirvana hull.
Nirvana blue hull with deck decals and fittings but no electronics installed.

Hatch Cover – Hard


The hatch cover that helps to make the Nirvana look so realistic.

Posted in Hull, Nirvana.
Tagged as hard hatch cover, nirvana hatch cover.

This is the hard cover that fits over the pliable hatch cover.

As of July 9, 2013, we have 2 with decals and 22 without decals.

Sail Set


Main and Jib sails

Posted in Nirvana, Nirvana Showroom, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as jib sail, main sail, Nirvana main and jib sails, Nirvana sail set, sails.

The only class legal main and jib sails for the Nirvana.

Only 14 left as of July 9, 2013.

Sail Numbers for Nirvana Sails


Class approved sail numbers for the Nirvana.

Posted in Nirvana, Sail/Rigging, Accessories.
Tagged as decal, RC Laser sail numbers, sail numbers decals.

As directed by the Nirvana Racing Rules, the sail number specs are:

  • Height: 3″ tall
  • Font: Arial Rounded MT Bold
  • Color: Black

Each sail number is one piece – i.e. if your sail number is 24, one sticker has 24 on it rather than one sticker with a 2 and one sticker with an 4.

Sail numbers are sold by the pair as each jib sail needs two (to be seen from both sides of the sail).

If you are buying a new boat, each boat receives a hull number of which the last two numbers are your sail numbers. We will provide the 2 digit sail number to the sign maker for your sail numbers.

If you already have a boat, please signify what sail numbers we need to print for you. Sail numbers are 2 digit.

NOTE: Shipping is included in the price for decals.

O Ring, Set of 2


O-rings help to hold the sheet hook in chosen hole on booms.

Posted in Nirvana, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as Nirvana booms, Nirvana O rings, O ring set, O-ring.
For the booms to hold the sheets in place.

Boom Vang “L” Fitting


Boom Vang Mast Pivot (“L” fitting) – At the bottom of the boom vang tackle is a fitting that pivots in the mast tang to which is tied the boom vang line. Does not come with wire keeper.

Posted in Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as Nirvana Boom Vang L Fitting.

Boom Slider, Round


Sliders – Black plastic fittings that fit the Nirvana booms. There are two kinds, “oval” and “round”. The “oval” slider is used to pass the hook completely through. The “round” slider is where the hook hooks into.

Posted in Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as Round boom slider for Nirvana.

Boom Slider, Oval


Sliders – Black plastic fittings that fit the Nirvana booms. There are two kinds, “oval” and “round”. The “oval” slider is used to pass the hook completely through. The “round” slider is where the hook hooks into.

Posted in Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as oval shaped boom slider for nirvana.

Battery Holder


Perfect generic battery holder. It comes with our RC Laser and fits in the Nirvana and other RC sailboats.

Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Nirvana, RC Laser.
Tagged as accessories, Battery Holder, electronics, holds batteries on board, nirvana, rc laser, sailing.
Holds 4 AA cells.

Servo, Steering – 311


Only class legal steering servo for the RC Laser or upgrade for the Nirvana (class legal for Nirvana as well).

SKU: 311
Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Nirvana, RC Laser.
Tagged as 311, RC Laser servo, RC Laser steering servo.

The Hitec HS-311 Servo.

Steering Servo for the RC Laser and can also be used as an upgrade for the Nirvana Steering Servo.

Servo, Sail – Hitec 645


Upgrade for the sail servo on the Nirvana – class legal.

SKU: N645
Posted in Electronics, Nirvana.
Tagged as 645 servo, Nirvana sail servo, sail servo.



NX83 Delta Peak Charger – for your rechargeable RC needs

*Please note, this will not work with the transmitter that comes with the 2014 Nirvana as there is no place to plug it in. We apologize.

Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Accessories.
Tagged as NX83, rechargeable batteries, Transmitter, trickle charger, spektrum, JST.

NX83 Delta Peak Charger. This is a trickle charger that brings TX and RX cells up to full strength over night, and then continues to hold all batteries at peak strength without fear of overcharging.

For the RC Laser:
One charger lead plugs into either the 5-pack RC Laser rechargeable battery or the battery holder for the receiver. The other lead plugs into the transmitter. Therefore, no batteries need to be handled at all. Lights on the charger indicate that proper connection is made.

For the Nirvana (not 2014 version*), Seawind and most other RC sailboats:
One charger lead plugs into the battery holder for the receiver. The other lead plugs into the transmitter. Therefore, no batteries need to be handled at all. Lights on the charger indicate that proper connection is made.

*We are sorry to say that the 2014 Nirvana transmitter does NOT have a place to plug the charger into.

The lead that plugs into the transmitters has an option for either positive (most transmitters) or negative (Spektrum transmitters). Check to see if your transmitter has a place to plug it in and you are all set!

Check out our recharge kits – great way to get batteries and charger at a special price.
RC Laser 8 (includes 5 pack for boat plus 8 AA for TX)
RC Laser 4 (includes 5 pack for boat plus 4 AA for TX)
Nirvana 8 (includes 8 AA for boat plus 8 AA for TX) – also for Seawind, Fairwind and other RC sailboats
Nirvana 4* (includes 4 AA for boat plus 8 AA for TX) – also for Seawind, Fairwind and other RC sailboats
*2014 Nirvana does NOT have a place to plug the charger into – we apologize.

SailRC is not a warranty service station for any electronics company. We are pretty good at troubleshooting most of our electronics but even we have a hard time keeping up with new technology. We will troubleshoot your issue on the phone and if we cannot resolve your issue, we will send you directly to a manufacturer’s service rep to get a resolution (either repair or replacement). We will NOT be sending you overseas to any manufacturer – all service centers we use are in the US!