RC Laser ~ It’s Unique!

I know, I know – sounds like a little smoke, maybe even a few mirrors – but one thing you will find out right up front ~ we tell it like it is.

We will TRY to be humble, but we ask YOU to compare feature for feature against any other RC sailboat. If you don’t see just how unique this boat is, let us explain.

Unique – adj. 1. existing as the only one of a kind. 2. having no equal; unparalleled. That is what Webster says.

The unique qualities of the RC Laser stem from the brilliant production design by Jon Elmaleh. He wanted a boat that would perform well, and be easy for the owner to enjoy, no matter what the boat was asked to do.

Poly Hull  The choice of the polyethylene hull has produced the most remarkable owner benefit of all. And yes, it is unique, as not one other model sailboat in the world is produced using this material.

Cost  Using poly material means the boat could be uniformly mass-produced in one homogeneous piece using a blow molding system. The reason others don’t copy this process is because of the high expense of building the molds. HOWEVER, once done, the resulting value is head and shoulders above all the rest. It is the main reason why no other ready-to-sail 42″” model sailboat is available for such a low cost.

Durability  The poly hull has written the book on durability. Not only is the boat indestructible on the water, it is unbelievably resistant to damage when being handled or transported ashore. No other boat would dare be checked as baggage on a commercial airliner packed only in a soft, zippered bag! Now think about that – if the boat can take that kind of punishment, how bulletproof is it in the hands of the kids, or thrown below on your big boat, or stored in the motor home.

One Piece and Watertight  The RC Laser is molded (deck and hull) in one piece. Except for a 1/16″ hole in the transom, used for pressure equalization, the boat is completely watertight. And, yes, it is hollow.

Electronics Compartment  The engineering jewel of this boat is the electronics compartment. We have all fought with different ways to keep electronics dry, but this boat took the effort to a new level. When the boat is molded, it has a “cockpit”” molded into the deck. A well-designed deck plate is then permanently sealed over this cockpit. The result is the driest, most accessible electronics area in any RC boat. Only those that operate RC equipment around water understand just how important this is – especially when sailed in salt water.

Mr. Peanut  Yes, it is a source of gentle ribbing that the cockpit hatch (entry through the deck plate) is remarkably similar to the plastic cap found on a peanut can. The male section of the hatch, which is molded as a 1″ “tower” in the deck plate, ensures a positive snap shut hatch that is very easy to open and close, while being the tightest, most reliable, seal of any hatch in model sailing. It may not be the most aesthetically pleasing hatch, but owners really don’t care – it works so well.

Servo Installation  The RC Laser control system is truly unique. Above deck “clothes line” type sail control lines are not uncommon, but attaching the servos to the underside of the deck plate with molded posts, is truly ingenious. Each servo has standard 4-hole mounting flanges. However, instead of screwing them to supports like other boats do, we have four posts molded to the underside of the deck plate. Simply slide the servo up onto the four tapered posts until it seats against the beveled deck exit hole, and then jam the supplied rubber block between the bottom of the servo and the cockpit floor. Voila! To remove the servo, pull out the block, and the servo drops right out.

Steering  Basic steering is true to the full sized Laser with an outboard rudder. But that is where similarity stops. A tiller is mounted on the aft deck with a pivot point directly above the rudder gudgeon. The gudgeon is molded into the bottom of the hull right at the transom. The pintle on the rudder fits up into the gudgeon and at the same time the two upper prongs snap up into the tiller. Rods connect the yoke of the tiller to the servo yoke for simple, but accurate control. How how ingenious! Snap, it’s mounted and ready to go.

Keel Installation  The RC Laser is ballasted by 4 # of lead, on a molded 16″ long keel fin. The top of the keel fin fits up from the bottom through a keel trunk that goes completely through to the deck. On the top of the keel fin is a wing lock that turns 90 degrees to snap into place on the deck to hold the keel firmly in the boat. Snap, it’s in – snap, it’s out!

Maststep ”That mast is coming outta there when I roll out”, I thought to myself the first time I saw the mast step. How WRONG could I be. But I am often asked about this simple step and its ultimate ability to carry, and keep, the rig in the boat. Remember, I told you that the hull and deck are completely watertight, so how about the mast step???

First, the well for the maststep is molded into the deck. To give it the guts to support an unstayed mast, the bottom of the well is fused, in the molding process, to the bottom of the hull.

The mast step itself is a molded piece of hard plastic with a hole in the middle to support the mast, and allow it to turn freely. The mast step fitting is a press fit into the well. This design is so sound, that we have never had a mast step failure – never!

But what keeps the mast in the hole during a pitchpole or roll out? Who knows? But trust me, I have done it all, and more than once, and I have never seen a mast leave the step under any sailing condition. The only downside is that the boat cannot be lifted from the water by the mast!

Boom Vang  No performance sailor would be caught dead without a boom vang to control sail shape – right? Well the RC Laser doesn’t have one! Instead, it has a rigid gooseneck and a very strong aluminum boom, which performs the role of boom vang to a T (or is that an L).

The vertical part of the gooseneck fitting surrounds, and is glued to, the tapered fiberglass mast. The boom fits snugly into the horizontal part of the gooseneck and is kept in place by the outhaul tension. The “web” on the gooseneck fitting does not allow any flex of the fitting. Consequently, the boom is “vanged” by the rigid gooseneck and because the mast is free to turn in the maststep, the boom actually turns the mast as the sail is trimmed. And tough – I have a box full of spare gooseneck fittings but have never had to replace one yet!

Freestanding Rig  Ahhhh, the simplicity and power of the bendy mast. Certainly, the bendy mast sail system is widely acclaimed for its high performance. However, in the last 30 years or so, technology has helped produce higher performance freestanding masts – masts that do not need stays to hold them up. The two-piece mast in the RC Laser is a masterful piece of work – with the strength that allows you to sail in impossible winds, and the flexibility to drive the boat through the puffs with the grace of a swan.

The RC Laser mast is not just a tube but a carefully produced, tapered fiberglass, two-piece mast. It is unique in the model sailing world.

Sail Design  The authorized sails for the RC Laser are all single panel sails, made to one plan, by one manufacturer. So what’s so cool about that???

Material  Sure it looks like Rice Paper – but it wears like iron. The material is best likened to a material that you see used in express envelopes. You know, the ones you absolutely can’t rip open!! It is actually polyester film laminated to polyester tissue. A brand name for this polyester film is Mylar®. The leech of the sail is two pieces of this material bonded together to form a leech that will not fray nor stretch.

The unique result – a sail that will never tear, mildew, or lose its shape. Unless your dog eats it, you will likely never need a new sail.

Design  It’s all in the luff round. Anyone that has designed sails for a bendy mast will tell you that it is no easy task to get the sail to fit the mast when the mast is bending all over the place. That effort becomes even more pronounced when you bring it down to the size of a 42″ boat. To make it work on the RC Laser, the sleeve that goes over the mast is relatively deep (fore and aft). When there isn’t much wind, the mast is standing up straight inside the sleeve. If you look closely you will notice that the sail extends well in front of the mast about half way up. In this case, the luff round is touching the mast at the head and the foot only, causing the “round” arch forward of the mast. Even though it looks a little strange, the stiffness of the sail allows this “leading edge of the wing” to be very effective.

As the wind picks up, the mast begins to bend and eventually fits right along the precut luff round of the sail! Coooool! Unique?? You bet!

Conclusion Is there any wonder why the RC Laser is earning the respect of more and more sailors every day.

Terrific engineering, unmatched material toughness, and a commitment to mass production, produces a boat like no other in the world – affordable, transportable, simple, performance based, and FUN!

It is a truly UNIQUE model boat!

 
Post Tagged with “laser sailboat”, “nirvana radio”, “radio controlled sailboats”, “rc laser sailboat”, “rc laser”, “rc sailboat”, “rc sailboats”, “rc sailing”, “sailboat drawing”, seawind

RC Laser – RTS Version

$585.00

The finest one-design RC sailboat in the world. Over 9,000 sold in North America alone…

For a limited time, we are offering free shipping for the RC Laser to any address in the continental US via UPS Ground.

SKU: LRTS
Posted in RC Laser.
Tagged as hobby, rc laser, retirement, sailboat, sailing.

Product Description

The standard RC Laser package is ready to sail in less than 5 minutes.

Included in the standard boat are the following parts:

Hull – blow molded polypropylene, one part (not sandwiched together). Virtually indestructible.

Standard Mast (for B, C, D Sails) – Two-part, tapered, composite, free-standing mast with fixed gooseneck attached.

Standard Boom (also called the “long” boom used for A sail and B sail) – supplied with three adjusters for trimming the sail and attaching the mainsheet.

B Sail – This is the mid range sail good for sailing in winds up to 20 mph.

Keel – A molded keel fin with lead ballast attached. Comes with a plastic fairing shield installed over lead. A wing-lock fitting at top of the fin provides easy through-boat installation in a snap!

Rudder – molded with integral prongs that snap into the tiller to hold in place. Pintle and gudgeon for outboard mounting.

Boat Stand – Used for displaying boat ~ not for use outside in the wind.

Carry/Storage Bag – This custom bag has a pocket for each boat part, including the transmitter. It is made of heavy grade nylon material with a full zipper. Includes shoulder and hand-carry straps.

Electronics – All boats come with class-approved steering and sail servos installed, a battery holder, and a wire harness with on-deck switch.

Radio Equipment – the RTS (ready-to-sail) version comes with a 2.4 ghz transmitter and installed receiver. The PNP version does not include a transmitter and receiver, so you can use your own.

Not included: 12 AA batteries that will power the boat and radio equipment for 5-6 hours.

 

We are always asked, “What else do I need?”. So we have made up three specially-priced packages based on how you intend to use your boat.

  • RC Laser Recreational Package $65.00 Add to cart

Recreational Package: For those that intend to use your boat for the sheer relaxation of sailing across the pond. You are not interested in racing for the time being.

This package includes our failsafe Recharge System to make sure your batteries are always fully charged and ready for your next sail. Included is a special charger that charges a custom battery pack for the boat, AND the batteries in the transmitter all ~ at the same time ~ and then drops off to a trickle charge to keep the batteries topped-up until your next sail. No need to remove any batteries from the boat or the transmitter!!

The other item included is Speed Clips. These stainless-steel clips make rigging the boat a snap, giving you a durable double-cross clip that cannot accidentally pull apart.

 

  • RC Laser Club Competitive Package $189.00 Add to cart

Club Competitive: This package is for those of you that want to compete at the local level. It provides what we recommend to all of our local fleets.

This package includes the Recreational Package, above, plus a couple more items to ready your boat for local racing (or just more options for sailing in different velocities of winds.

Additional sails – Included is the largest sail (A) for light wind sailing, with its special 14” taller mast. You also get the smaller C Sail for when the wind really picks up. (The standard boat comes with the B sail for medium winds) If you are sailing with the gang up at the lake, you will want to be competitive and this set of sails does just that. Everyone will be impressed when you pull out a sail to match the current wind …

 

  • RC Laser National Competitive Package $379.00 Add to cart

National Competitive: If you aspire to travel to compete in our many regional and national level regattas, you need to be prepared for anything. Changing sails is something that you need to do quickly between races – so here is the most popular set-up.

This package includes both Recreational and Club Competitive packages above, plus:

D Sail (the smallest sail available for when it blows like H___!

Extra Spars – To change sails quickly, you want each sail rigged on its own mast and boom. So you get an additional long boom for the A sail, and two short booms for the C and D sail. Plus we add two extra masts for the C and D sail.

Sail Bag – And last you need something to carry and protect all four rigged sails. Our sail bag is custom made with four compartments, one for each sail rig. The heavy outside cover has a zipper base for access, and a shoulder strap for carrying.

Buying in quantity makes a difference with SailRC. Get together with friends, community or marina to buy a higher quantity and receive greater savings. All must ship at the same time to the same address using a single payment.

Quantity Price Per Boat Savings per Boat
1 $585
2-3 $562 $23
4-7 $526 $59
8+ $480 $105

Features:

  • Hull and deck molded in one piece polypropylene
  • Mast is tapered fiberglass composite, two piece
  • Sail is sleeved to slide over the mast. Sail is made of non-woven polyester composite film
  • Mast is stepped into a non-captive deck step that allows mast to swivel. There is no standing rigging
  • Gooseneck fitting is fixed so boom vang is not necessary
  • Keel and rudder snap in and out in an instant – no tools
  • Easy access to radio compartment via snap-lid port
  • Easy to adjust stainless outhaul sliders on boom
  • All parts are interchangeable and inexpensive to replace
  • Full On Board electronics to include class approved servos for sail and steering
  • Two channel AM Radio system (drum sail winch, steering servo installed)
  • Batteries not included – requires 8 or 12 ea AA batteries, either alkaline or rechargeable
  • Boat is corrosion resistant and salt water safe

Below are the specifications of this terrific model. There are many more articles on the Skippers Log about this remarkable RC sailboat as well.

Specifications:

Length Deck 41.5″
Length Waterline 37.75″
Beam 13.5″
Draft 17″
Main Hoist 50″
Mast top above deck 54″
Bottom of keel to top of mast 73″
Sail Area
A 949 sq. in.
B 710 sq. in.
C 600 sq. in.
D 525 sq. in.
Displacement 9 lbs.

SailRC

First, and foremost, we stand behind the products that we sell and service. The way we do that tells a lot about our company ethic and unending desire to serve our customers.

POLICIES

Satisfaction Guarantee

Your satisfaction is guaranteed. If you are not satisfied with any product purchased directly from SailRC, please return it for a refund based on the following terms:

  • Product must be returned (ship date) within 30 days of original receipt of product.
  • Product must be in resalable condition. That includes repacking of all parts in original packing, as originally packed, with complete paperwork included, and with no indication of use.
  • Shipping costs are not refundable.
  • Return shipping damage is the responsibility of the returning customer.
  • Restocking fee – 10% of cost of goods

~~~~~~~~~~~~

Warranty

SailRC is NOT the manufacturer of any product we sell. Therefore, we do not carry the ultimate responsibility for the warranty. However, we do everything possible to insure that you get prompt and fair service.

Specifically – we want you to contact us first with any product question or problem – see Contact Page. Steve will arrange a phone call to move quickly through your issue and provide exact instructions.

SailRC may intervene between you and the manufacturer if we have a warranty support arrangement with that manufacturer.

Warranty Statement: Warranty on products sold and shipped by SailRC covers failure of any part that is caused by defect in workmanship or materials when the product is used as intended*.

*Use as intended Model boats and boat equipment are intended to sail on water. They are not intended to withstand collisions with each other or any other obstruction. Electronics are not intended to get wet!

What is not covered Damage caused by misuse, abuse, improper care, accident, modification, shipping, wear and tear, or repair by anyone other than the manufacturer or their representative. Damage to metal parts due to use in salt water.

Warranty Fine Print

Registration & Proof of Purchase Proof of purchase is critical to a warranty claim. Please register your boat with SailRC within one month of purchase and keep your original receipt.

Electronics SailRC is not a warranty service station for any electronics company. We are pretty good at troubleshooting most of our electronics but even we have a hard time keeping up with new technology. We will troubleshoot your issue on the phone and if we cannot resolve your issue, we will send you directly to a manufacturer’s service rep to get a resolution (either repair or replacement). We will NOT be sending you overseas to any manufacturer – all service centers we use are in the US!

Shipping Damage All items shipped by SailRC are insured for full value. If your boat, or accessories, are damaged during shipping from us to you, it is important to contact SailRC immediately for claims processing.

Important If something is damaged in shipping, most of the time the outside box shows evidence of rough handling. We need pictures of damage to the box.

Again, we are not responsible for damage in shipping but we facilitate getting a resolution in your favor.

Warranty Shipping – The customer is responsible for all costs of shipping a warranty item to and from a warranty station.

No Return If a part fails, many times we can made a decision based on your photograph sent via email. In this case, we may avoid having to return the broken part for review. So take good pictures and send

Replacement Parts Any shipping involved with warranty parts is paid by the owner.

If SailRC ships a warranty replacement part before a faulty part is returned to SailRC, or the manufacturer, the owner will be charged for the replacement. When the part is properly returned and deemed replaceable under warranty, then a credit will be issued to owner’s credit card.

Term We do not set the term of warranty service on our products but we sometimes offer extended warranty coverage. Below are just some of the warranty terms for the products we handle.

RC Laser Out There Technologies (OTT), a US company, produces the RC Laser and warrants each new boat for six months from the verified date of purchase. In North America, SailRC manages all RC Laser warranty services.

If you have any questions about anything on this page, please email us.

Nirvana ~ Frequently Asked Questions ~ Part I

What is the difference between the Nirvana, Nirvana II, etc.?  (2012)

There is only one Nirvana RC sailboat.  Since the class is designated a “one-design” boat, that means that it must be manufactured to the same performance specifications year after year.  Note that performance specifications are those features affect speed through the water.  Therefore, the size and shape of he hull, the size and shape of the rudder and keel, the size, shape, and performance characteristics of the spars and sails,  are the major factors that will not change.

You notice that I didn’t mention the electronics.  The Nirvana II was a brief designation of the Nirvana which had a redesigned, and molded, electronics compartment to handle different brands of electronic equipment.  Since electronics only control the boat, not make it faster, changing electronics, within performance specifications, is legal.

In 2011, the Nirvana class returned to just Nirvana.  There is an international class rule for this boat, and it states all the modifications that are allowed for a boat to be considered a Nirvana for racing.  No other changes can be made.  The good news for all Nirvana owners is that the major parts of the boat are interchangeable, and inexpensive – all thanks to the strict adherence to the one-design rule.

Is there more than one size of sails for the Nirvana? 2012

 No.  While there have been some tests completed on a smaller set of storm sails, none have yet been adopted by the class for racing.  Part of the consideration for changing a performance feature like this is that everyone would then be required to get these smaller sails to be able to compete in heavier winds.  Added cost is one of the reasons that the rules committee has not yet approved a smaller set of sails for racing.

Please note that since sails are inexpensive for this boat, you can buy a set of sails and cut them down yourself for your own sailing enjoyment.  It is just the international rule that has not yet changed to allow smaller sails for use in racing.

What is the material the Nirvana sails are made of? 2012

Even though some folks have joked that the sails look like rice paper, that are actually very high quality and extremely durable.  They are made of polyethylene film with a chopped poly fiber adhered to one side for added strength.  These sails are water proof, mildew proof, very tear resistent, and they will not stretch out of shape.  The material is also very resistent to sun damage.  Ultimately the seams (made with double sided tape) will break down in the sun.  But this is after years of sun exposure.  Never leave your boat rigged and sitting in the sun (through a window even), and your sails we last many years.   Poly sails have one issue that requires special care.  They crease easily, so never fold your sails.  Try to store them flat so they don’t get wrinkles or creased.

What is the range of the Nirvana radio system? 2012

This is a loaded question, and here’s why.  The Nirvana has had at least 4 different radios produced and installed in the boats since introduction in 2003.  However, all of the systems have been long range radios, not those used in toys.

Bottom line, you can’t enjoy sailing your Nirvana if you can’t see it, and as long as you can see it, you can control it with any of the radios sold with the boat.

Are the numbers that come with each boat official class numbers? 2012

No.  We are trying to get these low quality, hard to read numbers out of the production.  Official class numbers for racing, are a specific font, size and color but that is not what is included with the boat.  If you don’t intend to race, you can certainly use the numbers that come with your boat – but if you ever intend to race or sell your boat to someone that will, you need to use the numbers specified in the class rule.

 Why should I register my Nirvana ?  2012

 Registration was initially required to activate the warranty on your Nirvana.  Also, it was used to assign a hull and sail number to your boat for racing purposes.

If your boat was purchased from SailRC directly, you no longer need to worry about registering to establish your warranty.  However, if you purchase your boat from a dealer (not SailRC), then you do need to contact SailRC and give us your purchase information (Invoice).

As for hull and sail numbers, if you have a boat that does not have sail numbers, and you want them, register your boat and you will be assigned the proper numbers.  If you have purchased a boat from SailRC after May 2012, hull and sail numbers are not designated, and a sheet is included with every boat shipped.

The RC Laser is Full of Features

Whether you are brand new to sailing, new to RC sailing, an old salt, or a championship match-racing model sailor, the RC Laser is the boat for you.

Instant gratification! When you receive your new boat in its shipping box, you will be less than 10 minutes from launching. No tools needed – None! There are only 5 parts – hull, keel, rudder, mast, sail!!! Once you have assembled the boat the first time, you will cut the rig and unrig time to less than 3 minutes.

An equal opportunity sailboat The RC Laser is for kids, for adults, for seniors, even for the physically handicapped. She is the boat of choice for sailing schools and rental fleets because she is practically indestructible and very easy to handle. Plus she is a TRUE one-design for competitive sailors that want to go for the gold.

Pocket boat The RC Laser is so easy to carry around, you will keep it in the backseat of your car for sailing over your lunch break, or stick it in your RV for sailing fun on the road. How about one in the lazarette of your big boat for a sail around the anchorage at day’s end? Or, check it on the plane when you fly off to compete in the RC Laser National Championships. You will take the RC Laser everywhere you go – because you can!

Sail almost anywhere The RC Laser has a 16″ keel. So anywhere you find knee-deep water, she will sail. Sail in the ocean, a pond or lake, a river or stream – or in your swimming pool, it makes no difference. The RC Laser sails beautifully in conditions from a zephyr up to 35 knots of wind – no joke!

Pedigree The Laser is the design of world famous sailor and yacht designer Bruce Kirby. Of all his creations, the one-man Laser is the best known. Over 300,000 have been built to date, making the Laser the most popular racing class of all time AND an Olympic Class.

The RC Laser is a 1/4 scale model of that Laser with certain modifications for model performance – all carefully designed and tested by Bruce Kirby and Jon Elmaleh – both world class sailors.

This means the RC Laser has a pedigree, is proven and tested. It is not a toy designed by a toy company. When you sail this boat, the right things happen. If you make a mistake, it bails you out and keeps on sailing. You don’t need to worry about breaking the boat, and you won’t be disappointed with how well she sails.

The RC Laser Family The RC Laser is supported by the RC Laser Class Association of North America (http://RCLaser.us). The RC Laser is also sanctioned by American Model Yachting Association as a one-design class. When you join our family, you have lots of folks looking out for your sailing enjoyment. This benefit starts with an owner standing next to you at the pond, and reaches all the way to the staff of the RC Laser organization.

RC Laser sailors DO have more fun! – It’s true. RC Lasers are such reliable radio controlled sailboats, you will be sailing when others have their boats ashore for repairs or adjustments. While you sail with the kids, others will be hiding their boat from their kids. Toughness, reliability, simplicity, and all weather capability means more FUN!

NO add-on expenses The RC Laser comes complete ready-to-sail already packed in her custom designed reinforced nylon zippered bag. Isn’t that great? We offer only a very few accessories for those that wish to race their RC Laser more competitively.

Satisfaction Guaranteed – Buy your RC Laser directly from SailRC and you have a full 30 days to return your boat if you find out it isn’t everything we say it is.

Unbelievably low priced The production of this RC sailboat coupled with responsible marketing and genuine service, allows us to continue with the lowest price of any boat even remotely similar in features and size. The reason is volume. We sell a lot of RC Lasers because they simply are the very best value in model sailing.

RC Laser Showroom

Radio control sailing is the easiest RC hobby

  • doesn’t crash & fall apart like RC helicopters, planes, cars and power boats can
  • two controls – one for each thumb
  • easy to learn – takes less than 10 minutes
  • batteries last 5 hours vs. 15 minutes in most other RC vehicles
  • cheaper and easier to maintain than all other RC vehicles

RC Laser is…

  • the #1 one design RC sailboat in the world – more than 9,000 in USA alone
  • the easiest boat to set up – less than 10 minutes from shipping box to water
  • the only RC sailboat in a bag – 5 minutes from bag to water and vice versa
  • the most affordable RC sailboat to maintain
  • complete – it comes with everything you need except batteries
  • as low as 4

What do we recommend that you get in addition to your RC Laser?
To save some money, order these items when you order your boat and they will ship for free inside the boat bag!

Additional sails for changing wind speeds are nice accessories for your RC Laser. To increase boat speed in light wind, use an A rig. For stronger winds, use a C sail.

Recharge systems are also very popular. Our Recharge System comes with a charger for both boat radio and transmitter plus rechargeable batteries for the transmitter and a rechargeable 5-pack for the boat. No more buying batteries every month!

No RC Laser sailor should be without speed clips.

3 Florida RC Laser Regattas February 2015

Sign up today to ensure your spot as these races tend to fill up quickly. Spectators welcome at all events!

Southeast Florida Winter Regatta
Coconut Creek
Sunday, February 22

10am – 5pm
Sabal Pines Park, 5005 NW 39th Avenue, Coconut Creek, FL$20 entry fee. Includes lunch and prizes (top 3 skippers)
Register Here

Snowbird Tune-Up Regatta
Punta Gorda
Thursday, February 26

9am – 4pm
South County Regional Park, 670 Cooper Street, Punta Gorda, FL
$20.53 entry fee. Includes lunch, gift and awards.
Register Here

12th Annual Mid-Winter Championship Regatta
Marco Island
Saturday and Sunday, February 28 – March 1

Friday 2pm – ? practice
Saturday 8:30-4:30pm with Dinner at 6:30pm
Sunday 9:30am – 4:30pmFrank E. Mackle Community Park, 1361 Andalusia Terrace, Marco Island, FL
$45 entry fee. Includes Sat & Sun lunches, soda, water, awards and skipper’s gift.
Register Here

Why can’t we play in the same Sand Box??

At issue is a long-standing American Model Yachting Association (AMYA) bylaw that states, in essence, that AMYA members, that own a boat in an AMYA sanctioned class, may vote to change a class specification. On the face, this is not particularly offensive if the class exists primarily within the AMYA. But if 99 percent of class boat owners are not AMYA members, and the class specification is approved by a multi-country class organization – then this practice is divisive.

As we all know, there are enough challenges to growing and maintaining an RC sailboat class. So why does AMYA persist in allowing a splinter group (AMYA members) to change the class specification and thus make their boats illegal for competing outside of AMYA sanctioned events. It is confusing to newcomers and unnecessarily thumbs-a-nose to larger class organizations.

RC Lasers racing at Marco Island, FL

RC Laser (17 years) and Nirvana (9 years) have long offered to work with AMYA on a solution that maintains the integrity of their class specifications. In the past, AMYA members who own one of these two large classes have not attempted to change the class specifications within AMYA, even though they could. But now, a splinter group from the Nirvana class is proposing to vote on a class specification that is not in compliance with the international class rule that Nirvana follows – and tomorrow, it could be the RC Laser specification coming under attack.

Nirvana North American Championships 2012

Again, to clarify, AMYA is supporting the option of AMYA members that own a class boat to adopt a class specification that will render their boats illegal for racing in anything other than AMYA regattas. We see no positive outcome of such a practice and think AMYA should exempt class specifications from AMYA voting where a superior class rule is in effect.

We are looking for your input on this seemingly unnecessary and class splitting action by AMYA. We encourage you to post your comments to this article.

Fold in Your Sail?

We get calls frequently about how to take a creases out of an RC Laser sail.  Unfortunately, this is nearly impossible to do (terry towel over sail with iron set to max steam).    So the obvious answer is “Don’t get a crease in your sail!”

Since preventative maintenance is the way to go, we are promoting proper packing of the RC Laser into our fantastic carry bag.  Sometimes we get a little sloppy and the sail gets folded when incorrectly installed in the bag.  So here is the article as a refresher!

RC Laser
Boat in Bag Instructions

Yes, there is a right and a “not so right” way to pack your boat in the handy carry bag.

To pack and unpack the bag, lay it logo side down,  and unzip the bag.

Packing

Sails – pack the sails first since the weight of the other items packed in the center flap makes it hard to insert the sails smoothly.  Flip the center flap up and place sails with the luff of the sail in first, the foot of the sail to the right, and the head of the sail to the left (that leaves the leech of the sail with the sail streamers closest to you, and the zipper).

Parts of the Sail

Put the tack of the sail all the way in to the back of the pocket so that the clew of the sail is comfortably inside the zipper.  Lay sail flat with no folds.  If you have the A sail, it will stick out the left end of the bag – we will get to that later.  Before folding the center flap over the sail, carefully fold the wind streamers back over the sails to keep them from getting caught in the zipper.  Now fold the flap down over the sails and check again to make sure no sail, strings, streamers are sticking out that could get caught in the zipper.

Keel – On the right side of the flap are two long thin pockets.  The one closest to the fold of the bag is for the keel.  ALWAYS insert keel fin into the pocket with the pointed end (trailing end) of the ballast pointing toward you (away from fold in bag).

Rudder – Goes in the shorter of the two pockets – right next to the keel.  Make sure to close the cover on this pocket area to keep the keel and rudder in place.

Hull – Remove the batteries and the hatch from the boat first.  Dry you hull before inserting into the bag.  Insert the hull into the large pocket UPSIDE DOWN and STERN FIRST.  When full in the pocket, the tiller will stick out through the hole in the left end of the pocket.  The two Velcro-fitted straps then cross the forward end of the boat to keep it firmly in place.

Spars – in the fold of the bag are two Velcro strap keepers.  Take your mast sections, and the boom and secure them with the straps.  Even the A mast will fit right along with your standard mast and boom.

Transmitter, batteries, hatch, etc.  – To the left of the hull pocket is the transmitter pocket.  Insert the transmitter BOTTOM FIRST into the pocket with the control sticks FACING UP. You will also find room in this pocket to put other small items like boat batteries, hatch, sun tan lotion,  etc.

Boat Stand – If you have a boat stand, fold it flat and then put the open ends around the stern of the hull with the closed end around the left end of the radio pocket.  It fits perfectly if you do it right – not worth a darn if you do it wrong.  You’ll see.

A Sail – If you have the A sail, you will now fold the head of the sail back across the radio compartment.  We recommend that you insert something (foam, or tube of some kind, to fold the sail over to keep it from getting a hard crease in the sail as it folds back over the radio compartment.  The flap then covers the fold in the sail to protect the sail from the zipper when closing the bag.

Towel – I recommend carrying a hand towel in your bag.  It fits nicely along the curve of the bag where the masts and booms are stored.  Always dry off your boat and parts before putting in bag – and make sure to leave the hatch open.

Boat Assembly

 –  Remove the hull first.

–  Install the keel in the hull first, followed by the rudder.  The keel protects the rudder from damage while boat is lying on the ground.  We do not recommend using a boat stand outside as it is too easy to blow the boat over.

–  Install your battery pack in the boat

–  Install the chosen sail on the mast, then the boom, and finally stand in boat and connect the mainsheet. Note that the mainsheet (black string) must be on the right side of the mast when inserted.

– Turn on transmitter, then boat, and make sure everything is working.

Shipping

If you are going to ship your boat or check it as baggage on an airplane (which I have done countless times with no damage) these extra packing tips are worthwhile.

~ Remove the 8 batteries from the transmitter as well.  They can be stored in the transmitter pocket in a zip lock bag or similar, but the momentum of the batteries left in the transmitter often smashes the compression clips at the end of the battery trays.  Even though not permanent damage, you must pry these clips out or you will end up with intermittent power in the transmitter.

~  Use waded newspaper or other packing, to fill in the ends of the bag.  Especially pay attention to packing between the radio pocket and the stern of the boat.  A hard shift of the boat that strikes the tiller on the radio, can cause the gears in the steering servo to be damaged.  Also, plenty of packing around and over the radio is important.  A real squash of the bag can jam (and break) the control sticks on the face of the radio.  The bottom line is to fill the open spaces in the ends of the bag and you will be amazed at the pounding this boat and bag can take.

~  Put the whole boat, in the bag, in the bag shipping box.  Even though the box does not protect the boat and contents very much, it does keep the bag from getting scuffed up.  You may have noticed that if you cut the tape on this box, it lies completely flat, and yet when you need it, it only takes a little tape to reuse it over and over.

Post comments below if you have questions – we’ll be happy to answer them!

Rudder Centering Adjustment Procedure for Nirvana

Before we start, the arm on the rudder post (tiller), was designed to be on the right side of the post.  Make sure that the end of the tiller clears the right side wall as it swings through its arch. If not, trim a little off the tiller end to help it clear without rubbing.

What the ????  It is possible to put the tiller on upside down so the tiller points to the left side, but normally the rubber grommet that it passes through will bind more if it is on the wrong side.  So if you want to be a “lefty”, make sure that it moves through the rubber grommet smoothly without jamming the grommet too far to one side.  AND, always mount the tiller with the screw facing to the rear.

These instructions will guide you through centering the rudder to the radio system.  There are three adjustments to make, but once made, should not ever need to be changed.

1 – Servo end of system.  On the forward end of the steering p/p-rod, you will find an arm (servo horn) which attaches to the steering servo .  Using a small Phillips head screwdriver, remove the screw, and work the arm off the steering servo post.

Turn “On” the transmitter and then the boat switch.  Make sure that the transmitter “fine tune” adjustment (slider button below the right stick on transmitter) is in the middle.  Move the transmitter right-stick left and right a couple of times, and then release allowing the servo to come to rest in the middle of its range.

Reinstall the horn onto the steering servo so that the arm is pointed straight to the left (when viewing boat from the back).  Again, fit it on the post of the servo so that it is perpendicular to the centerline of the boat, pointing to the left.

2 – Tiller to rudder post attachment.  You will note that the rudder has a flat spot ground into the rudder post.  Loosen the screw and make sure that the orientation of the tiller has the screw directly into the flat.

3 – Adjust length of p/p rod. Leave the radio system “On”.  View the boat from the rear and determine if the rudder is in the same plane as the keel fin.  If it is not aligned, follow the next few steps.

Note:  When you remove the set screw, the rudder is likely to drop out of the boat.  If you have a boat with a brass (metal) tube through which the rudder post mounts, it should be lubricated.  Vaseline is fine.  You do not need to lubricate the rudder post if you have the new black plastic tube installed in your boat.

If the rudder is cocked one way or the other, make note of whether the rod needs to be shortened or lengthened to bring the rudder back to center.  For instance, if you have the tiller mounted, as advised, on the right side of the rudder post, AND the rudder trailing edge is on the left side, then the rod needs to be shortened, and vice versa.  Turning the tiller/clevis clockwise as viewed from the rear, will shorten the rod and vice versa.

How much to adjust is by trial and error.  Remove the tiller from the rudder post by slacking the screw.  In our example with the rudder trailing edge to the left, we need to shorten the rod. Leaving the tiller attached to the rod clevis, simply turn the tiller clockwise two-three turns and then reattach to the rudder post to see how much you moved the rudder.  Repeat this procedure until you have the rudder centered.

Remember to leave the radio system “On” while doing this adjustment.

That’s it.  As long as you always center the tiller screw on the flat in the rudder post, your rudder should always be centered.  When sailing, if you want to make a correction to “center”, you have the “fine-tune” slider below the steering stick as a fine tune.

Nirvana Ready To Sail – Blue

$299.00

Nirvana has a huge history in club sailing in the US. Since the first introduction in 2003, it has been a “best buy” as attributed to over 12,000 Nirvanas being sold in the US to date.

In 2012, the Nirvana Class held their first national championships bringing Nirvana racing to the “bigs.” What this means is Nirvana has what it takes – excellent scale “looks,” a great well-proportioned design that produces agile and powerful performance, and the forgiving durability of well-made and assembled parts.

Ready to Sail means this boat comes with all electronics including the radio transmitter and receiver. All you need is batteries.

Make sure to read the specifications and description below and the “See Trial” article in the Skipper’s Log.

For a limited time, we are offering free shipping to any address in the continental US via UPS Ground.

Nirvana is available in three hull colors: Blue, Red and Yellow. 

SKU: NMTBLU
Posted in Nirvana, The Nirvana.
Tagged as nirvana, nirvana, Nirvana II, Nirvana RC Sailboat, RC sailboat, RC sailing, sailboat.

After a short hiatus, the Nirvana is back. Yep, this is the same Nirvana that was first produced in 2003, and that has enjoyed huge popularity in the US.

The new version of Nirvana has some very subtle tweaks, most would be unnoticeable to the average sailor. Certainly, this 2014 version is class legal for racing and still maintains her scale good looks. Even though there was a period when this boat was dubbed Nirvana II, she is simply referred to today as Nirvana.

Nirvana remains a value leader with a great design and “big boat” look, as well as remarkable race-course performance. Nirvana is a true one-design boat. This means that Nirvanas are never obsoleted by newer production. All parts remain interchangeable.

Yes, we have attended to a couple of troublesome parts that seemed to break in rough weather or severe racing conditions. These parts we re-formulated so they are much stronger.

This 32” model is produced to look like a real sailboat, from the extremely durable polyester sails to the look of her cabin trunk. Also note the deep fin keel with lead bulb that allows this boat to sail well in high winds (up to 22 mph). No other model in this category can come close in performance or appearance. This model will not capsize.

The rig, keel, and rudder are all quick release so the boat may be reduced to an easy-to-carry package in a moment. When displayed on her boat stand (included), she is 32” long, 64” high (bottom of keel to top of mast), and nearly 8” wide. Nirvana is available in three colors. Only 12 AA batteries are needed to sail this boat for up to 5 hours.

You will absolutely love this boat whether you display on your mantle or race it in your club fleet – or both! Make sure to read my current Nirvana “See Trial” posted now on the Skipper’s log.

  • 32” Long, Ready-to-Sail, not a kit
  • All electronics included and installed
  • “Quik rig” system allows quick and easy unrigging
  • Polyester sails that will not stretch, tear, or mildew
  • Self-righting, lead ballasted deep keel
  • Inexpensive interchangeable parts
  • Includes display stand

Buying in quantity makes a difference with SailRC. Get together with friends, community or marina to buy a higher quantity and receive greater savings. All must ship at the same time to the same address using a single payment.

Quantity Price Per Boat Savings per Boat
1 $299
2-3 $272 $27
4-7 $244  $55
8+ $231  $68

Hull
Length overall: 32 inches

Height
Bottom of keel to top of mast: 64 inches

Beam
maximum width: 7.75 inches

Weight
Sailing weight w/batteries: 5.5 pounds

Draft
Depth of water needed to sail: 13″

Sail Area
Total of main and jib: 525 square inches

For more expanded information on the features of the Nirvana, check out a couple of articles:

  • Features
  • Nirvana Class International Racing Rule

First, and foremost, we stand behind the products that we sell and service. The way we do that tells a lot about our company ethic and unending desire to serve our customers.

POLICIES

Satisfaction Guarantee

Your satisfaction is guaranteed. If you are not satisfied with any product purchased directly from SailRC, please return it for a refund based on the following terms:

  • Product must be returned (ship date) within 30 days of original receipt of product.
  • Product must be in resalable condition. That includes repacking of all parts in original packing, as originally packed, with complete paperwork included, and with no indication of use.
  • Shipping costs are not refundable.
  • Return shipping damage is the responsibility of the returning customer.
  • Restocking fee – 10% of cost of goods

~~~~~~~~~~~~

Warranty

SailRC is NOT the manufacturer of any product we sell. Therefore, we do not carry the ultimate responsibility for the warranty. However, we do everything possible to insure that you get prompt and fair service.

Specifically – we want you to contact us first with any product question or problem – see Contact Page. Steve will arrange a phone call to move quickly through your issue and provide exact instructions.

SailRC may intervene between you and the manufacturer if we have a warranty support arrangement with that manufacturer.

Warranty Statement: Warranty on products sold and shipped by SailRC covers failure of any part that is caused by defect in workmanship or materials when the product is used as intended*.

*Use as intended Model boats and boat equipment are intended to sail on water. They are not intended to withstand collisions with each other or any other obstruction. Electronics are not intended to get wet!

What is not covered Damage caused by misuse, abuse, improper care, accident, modification, shipping, wear and tear, or repair by anyone other than the manufacturer or their representative. Damage to metal parts due to use in salt water.

Warranty Fine Print

Registration & Proof of Purchase Proof of purchase is critical to a warranty claim. Please register your boat with SailRC within one month of purchase and keep your original receipt.

Electronics SailRC is not a warranty service station for any electronics company. We are pretty good at troubleshooting most of our electronics but even we have a hard time keeping up with new technology. We will troubleshoot your issue on the phone and if we cannot resolve your issue, we will send you directly to a manufacturer’s service rep to get a resolution (either repair or replacement). We will NOT be sending you overseas to any manufacturer – all service centers we use are in the US!

Shipping Damage All items shipped by SailRC are insured for full value. If your boat, or accessories, are damaged during shipping from us to you, it is important to contact SailRC immediately for claims processing.

Important If something is damaged in shipping, most of the time the outside box shows evidence of rough handling. We need pictures of damage to the box.

Again, we are not responsible for damage in shipping but we facilitate getting a resolution in your favor.

Warranty Shipping – The customer is responsible for all costs of shipping a warranty item to and from a warranty station.

No Return If a part fails, many times we can made a decision based on your photograph sent via email. In this case, we may avoid having to return the broken part for review. So take good pictures and send to Steve@SailRC.com.

Replacement Parts Any shipping involved with warranty parts is paid by the owner.

If SailRC ships a warranty replacement part before a faulty part is returned to SailRC, or the manufacturer, the owner will be charged for the replacement. When the part is properly returned and deemed replaceable under warranty, then a credit will be issued to owner’s credit card.

Term We do not set the term of warranty service on our products but we sometimes offer extended warranty coverage. Below are just some of the warranty terms for the products we handle.

Nirvana High Definition Radio Control (HDRC) manufactures Nirvana in China. They warrant each boat for 90 days from the verified date of  purchase. In North America, SailRC manages all Nirvana warranty services.

Nirvana’s Host of Features

Over the years, I have been pleased to be involved with the upgrades to this design. Most of these upgrades are to make the boat more robust, and easier to maintain.

Below are the features of this boat that stand it apart from other RC sailboats in this price range. These features are definitely owner benefits right out of the box.

The Box itself is a work of art. Packing a ready-built sailboat is difficult at best, but Nirvana makes it look easy. Inside the box is a full size foam clamshell-pack molded to accept each part of the boat in its own secure place. That includes the transmitter. Even the top of the two-part mast comes mounted in the top of the mainsail, and fit in the box in such a way as to allow the sail to curve around the rounded end of the clamshell to protect it from creasing. Polyester film makes a terrific sail, but it holds creases – thus the extra attention to the design and installation of these special sails. Loosen a few pieces of tape, and assemble according to little letter tags stuck to the pieces – all according to the diagrams in the manual, and you are out sailing in 30 minutes!

Sails Nirvana sails are made of the same material pioneered by the RC Laser in 1996. They are made from a polyester film bonded to a polyester fiber. The result is a sail that will not tear, stretch or mildew. So the only enemy is sunshine.  However, even sailing every day, these sails will last for many years. Most other model sails in this price range are almost throwaways – but not these sails, they are terrific.

Attractive Oh yeah, a lot of boats are nice looking, but my ongoing attraction to this RC sailboat is that it looks like a real racer/cruiser like the majority of sailors have crewed on all their lives. A cabin trunk with portholes, realistic main hatch decals, and a cockpit with seat boards. How cool. And the toe rail sets off the deck line and gives that real-boat look. (Toe rails keep real sailors from sliding off the edge of the deck) And the paint job is just terrific, shiny and bright. The only thing I personally don’t like are all the Megatech and Nirvana decals all over the place. So the first thing I do is to peel them all off and leave the boat looking sleek instead of like a floating billboard.

In the picture above you see the owner’s boat name on the side (having removed many of the original decals). BTW, you can remove the sticky from the decals with Goo Gone, works great and it doesn’t damage the paint finish.

 

Keel The first thing that struck me about the keel was how deep it is. It’s simple. To keep a sailboat on it’s feet, you need a counterbalance to the wind in the sails. The deeper the keel, the less lead you need at the bottom. The less weight the boat carries, the faster it will go through the water. So deep is beautiful! Oh, and the lead is cased in a hard plastic shell to protect it (lead is soft), and to give it a smooth surface. Very nice touch.

Rigging Did I say modern yet? Well this boat has a modern rig – meaning it has the high aspect (tall) rig of the go-fast full sized boats of today ~ it’s authentic, cool looking, efficient, and powerful. Remember what I said about the deep keel?? This is the rig to match. And it is clean, aerodynamically speaking, with a foil sleeve along the leading edges of both sails. No other boat has that.

Mast & Booms I love the sheet length adjuster arrangement (easily sets the sheet length for proper trimming by the servos). And the spars (mast and booms), are gorgeous. Highly polished black carbon fiber reinforced tubes are seeeexxxxxy! And they are strong and light. Not some wimpy aluminum tube like you get on others. The mast is two part and it is tapered, getting smaller at the top ~ something else you won’t find on any other boats in the price range.

Balanced Unlike many little boats (boats under 36″), this boat is amazingly well balanced. Only a racing skipper knows what this means to performance. But to the first time boat owner it means easy control with the boat doing all the right things when the skipper makes a mistake. This boat is a joy to sail and will leave other slugs in her wake as she slides gracefully through the water.

Sits Well   This is no good term for this feature – the boat just sits in the water well. Upright and alert, properly ballasted fore and aft. This hull has a “bustle” in her “git-along” that allows her to carry her weight aft (which helps keep the bow up when sailing downwind) and yet she puts her hull lines to work sailing to windward in just the right way. What am I talking about??? I won’t bore you with the technology here, but when you see this boat sail, you will know what I mean.

Performance Nirvana is really impressive. I did all the test sailing against a race warrior CR 914. The boat points very well, tacks fast and clean, tracks like she is riding a rail, and has bursts of speed to equal much larger boats. And down wind when many models look like submarines in full dive mode, she keeps her head up and flies over the waves.

Tell us how you feel Steve! – Do you get the idea I am impressed with this boat??? Well, I have sailed just about all of the models on the market at one time or another, and I race some of the best at the national level. But when I get my Nirvana out, I am always impressed with her good manners, her good looks, and her surprisingly good performance. You will love this boat – or I will take it back, simple as that.

Nirvana – SOLD OUT

$299.00

WE ARE SOLD OUT OF NIRVANAS but we still have parts available – click here for Nirvana Parts. And we are always available to help with any questions you have about the Nirvana. We sail them, too!

As of December 2012, there is no announced date for the next manufacturing run of Nirvanas. We will share the information as we hear it – sign up now for our newsletter to be the first to know. Click here to sign up.

SKU: NMTRED
Posted in Nirvana, The Nirvana.
Tagged as hobby, nirvana, Nirvana II, RC sailboat, RC sailing.

Product Description

Nirvana, the model sailboat, has not changed in appearance or performance since first produced in 2003. Even though there was a period when this boat was dubbed Nirvana II, she is simply referred to today as Nirvana.

The latest version came out in 2011, with the primary difference being a new radio system. Gone are the days when frequency conflicts cause boats to lose control. Today, the Nirvana has a very efficient 2.4 ghz frequency hopping radio system which automatically prevents interference.

This 32” model is produced to look like a real sailboat, from the extremely durable polyester sails to the look of her cabin trunk. Also note the deep fin keel with lead bulb that allows this boat to sail well in high winds (up to 22 mph). No other model in this category can come close in performance or appearance. This model will not capsize.

The rig, keel, and rudder are all quick release so the boat may be reduced to an easy-to-carry package in a moment. When displayed on her boat stand (included), she is 32” long, 66” high (bottom of keel to top of mast), and nearly 8” wide. Nirvana is available in three colors. Only 12 AA batteries are needed to sail this boat for up to 5 hours.

A complete line of inexpensive spare parts are available for this boat.

  • 32” Long, Ready-to-Sail, not a kit
  • All electronics included and installed
  • “Quik rig” system allows quick and easy unrigging
  • Polyester sails that will not stretch, tear, or mildew
  • Self-righting, lead ballasted deep keel
  • Inexpensive interchangeable parts
  • Includes display stand

Hull
Length overall: 32 inches

Height
Bottom of keel to top of mast: 64 inches

Beam
maximum width: 7.75 inches

Weight
Sailing weight w/batteries: 5.5 pounds

Draft
Depth of water needed to sail: 13″

Sail Area
Total of main and jib: 525 square inches

For more expanded information on the features of the Nirvana, check out a couple of articles:

  • Features
  • Nirvana Class International Racing Rule

First, and foremost, we stand behind the products that we sell and service. The way we do that tells a lot about our company ethic and unending desire to serve our customers.

POLICIES

Satisfaction Guarantee

Your satisfaction is guaranteed. If you are not satisfied with any product purchased directly from SailRC, please return it for a refund based on the following terms:

  • Product must be returned (ship date) within 30 days of original receipt of product.
  • Product must be in resalable condition. That includes repacking of all parts in original packing, as originally packed, with complete paperwork included, and with no indication of use.
  • Shipping costs are not refundable.
  • Return shipping damage is the responsibility of the returning customer.
  • Restocking fee – 10% of cost of goods

~~~~~~~~~~~~

Warranty

SailRC is NOT the manufacturer of any product we sell. Therefore, we do not carry the ultimate responsibility for the warranty. However, we do everything possible to insure that you get prompt and fair service.

Specifically – we want you to contact us first with any product question or problem – see Contact Page. Steve will arrange a phone call to move quickly through your issue and provide exact instructions.

SailRC may intervene between you and the manufacturer if we have a warranty support arrangement with that manufacturer.

Warranty Statement: Warranty on products sold and shipped by SailRC covers failure of any part that is caused by defect in workmanship or materials when the product is used as intended*.

*Use as intended Model boats and boat equipment are intended to sail on water. They are not intended to withstand collisions with each other or any other obstruction. Electronics are not intended to get wet!

What is not covered Damage caused by misuse, abuse, improper care, accident, modification, shipping, wear and tear, or repair by anyone other than the manufacturer or their representative. Damage to metal parts due to use in salt water.

Warranty Fine Print

Registration & Proof of Purchase Proof of purchase is critical to a warranty claim. Please register your boat with SailRC within one month of purchase and keep your original receipt.

Electronics SailRC is not a warranty service station for any electronics company. We are pretty good at troubleshooting most of our electronics but even we have a hard time keeping up with new technology. We will troubleshoot your issue on the phone and if we cannot resolve your issue, we will send you directly to a manufacturer’s service rep to get a resolution (either repair or replacement). We will NOT be sending you overseas to any manufacturer – all service centers we use are in the US!

Shipping Damage All items shipped by SailRC are insured for full value. If your boat, or accessories, are damaged during shipping from us to you, it is important to contact SailRC immediately for claims processing.

Important If something is damaged in shipping, most of the time the outside box shows evidence of rough handling. We need pictures of damage to the box.

Again, we are not responsible for damage in shipping but we facilitate getting a resolution in your favor.

Warranty Shipping – The customer is responsible for all costs of shipping a warranty item to and from a warranty station.

No Return If a part fails, many times we can made a decision based on your photograph sent via email. In this case, we may avoid having to return the broken part for review. So take good pictures and send to Steve@SailRC.com.

Replacement Parts Any shipping involved with warranty parts is paid by the owner.

If SailRC ships a warranty replacement part before a faulty part is returned to SailRC, or the manufacturer, the owner will be charged for the replacement. When the part is properly returned and deemed replaceable under warranty, then a credit will be issued to owner’s credit card.

Term We do not set the term of warranty service on our products but we sometimes offer extended warranty coverage. Below are just some of the warranty terms for the products we handle.

Nirvana Megatech, International, a US company, produces the Nirvana and warrants each new boat for 90 days from the verified date of purchase. In North America, SailRC manages all Nirvana warranty services.

Nirvana – Past, Present and Future

In February 2003, we received one of the first production run Nirvanas for evaluation. I was excited to get my hands on this new RC sailboat because it was designed and performance-tested by Jon Elmaleh – a world renowned model racing sailor and the best model production engineer I have ever known.

Overall, I was really impressed with that early version Nirvana. I test sailed her in Colorado against a well-tuned and sailed CR-914 (36″ racing sloop). Since I was then racing the CR-914 nationally, it was a good trial horse for the Nirvana.

Like all new boats off the production line, there were some bugs, but the boat looked great, sailed cleanly to windward, balanced well even in the puffs, and she was easy to handle downwind ~ a really fun boat with a new modern design.

The boat was, and is, produced by Megatech International, an American company that manufacturers RC products in production

facilities in China. As of 2012, Nirvana remains the only RC sailboat produced by Megatech.

In late 2010, SailRC signed an exclusive distribution agreement with Megatech to import the Nirvana to North America and take over promotion, distribution, and all warranty and parts service. On 5 April, 2011, the first production of Nirvanas since this agreement was inked arrived in our US warehouse.

Since the inception of Nirvana, Steve Lang, president of SailRC, has been an ongoing technical consultant to Megatech on modifications and improvements made to Nirvana.

The new model Nirvana is, by class racing rule, unchanged in performance from the very first boat built in 2003, but today it features upgraded electronics with a new 2.4 ghz spread-spectrum style radio system.

We mention the class racing rule because it serves all Nirvana owners, whether they race or not. The fact that a boat must be manufactured in strict compliance with a set of rules means that all boats, whether manufactured in 2003 or yesterday, must perform the same.

What that means to the non-racer is “value”. Since the boat does not change, each owner enjoys a better purchase value, AND a better resale value. AND, another terrific benefit is that parts are always interchangeable and inexpensive!

Enjoy Nirvana – it is a story worth repeating, and a boat worth sailing.

Up a Creek – Without a Rudder!!

The bullet-proof RC Laser has long invited sailors to be more careless about collisions.  But one type collision can disable an RC Laser.

If one boat’s bow crosses the aft deck of another boat it may hit the top of the rudder, unhooking it – which leads to ejecting the non-floating rudder  %$^&*#@!

For years we have heard – “my rudder just fell out even though it was snapped in!” But we all know that if both hooks are securely snapped into place, the rudder simply cannot “fall out”.  Nod your head, Yes!

But then one day in my own fleet, I collided with another boat, my bow crossing his aft deck.  I didn’t think much of it until I looked back and saw the other boat just sitting there.  Turns out, his rudder was gone.   Then I saw a similar incident about a month later – right before my eyes!!!  Then someone else claimed exactly the same story to me on the phone!

OK, OK, it is extremely rare but I have personally seen it happen! So here is the solution I recommend and use myself.  We installed safety pins on all our fleet boats and haven’t had a loss of a rudder since – for any reason.

A picture is worth a 1000 words, so here are two.  These clips are readily available in most hardware stores.  Drill an appropriate sized hole in the rudder center post, near enough to the top so the keeper pin you use can slide through and snap in place.  Also, tie the pin to something – I use the tiller or a steering rod.  That way, you won’t lose the pin when you store your boat.

As I mentioned, rudders don’t float, so save yourself the grief of losing one and the cost of buying a new one!  Do it today.

The Joy of Sailing

Radio Controlled Sailboats

RC model sailing, like all sports, has different levels of participation. We would like to point out a few ways you can enjoy RC sailing.

Family of Ducks – All Aboard!

The Hobbyist – There are those that participate as a hobbyist, finding much of their enjoyment in the construction and display of a model sailboat. After construction, the hobbyist often enjoys sitting on the couch, admiring his work, and even dreaming of what it would be like to be aboard such a boat at sea.

Get Away – Then there is the “relaxation” sailor, that uses his boat to get away from the free-for-all of daily life. Sailing an RC model sailboat on a quiet lake, blocks out the rest of the world and refreshes the senses with beautiful images and the soothing sounds of nature. It is not unusual to see models sailing next to a highrise office building during lunch break.

Family – A model sailboat is a special treat for the family – easy to own, easy to control, and harmless to play with. Children of all ages will enjoy quality time sailing with Mom and Dad. Kids relate naturally to the miniature world, and enjoy playing “make-believe” as they sail out to sea.

Learning – RC sailboats provide the ultimate learning tool. You quickly learn sailing basics in just an hour or so, and if you chose to learn more, your model is the perfect learning tool. If you want to graduate to real sailboats, all that you have learned with your model applies. And for those sailors that have raced around the marks a few times on full sized boats, you won’t believe how quickly you will learn new tactics and the finer points of racing rules when you take the helm of a model.

Camaraderie – Building or buying a RC sailboat is the price of admission into one of the oldest clubs in the world. Sailors love to gather, look over each other’s boats, and tell tall tales about their sailing adventures. Whether they sail a vintage RC sailboat, or the latest high-tech speedster, it all relates. We are now seeing an explosion of hometown sailing clubs all across the country. These model clubs are informal, social and tremendous fun. No need to be near the ocean, models sail on bodies of water as small as a swimming pool.  We even have clubs that race in the winter on inside swimming pools, powered by fans.
Racing Challenge – With the advent of reliable and easy to use radio control equipment, and model sailboats that look and act like the real thing, racing has taken a major step forward. Precise handling challenges the most seasoned racer. Model sailing clubs provide the structure for competition and the education to compete at a higher level. Entry level racing is found in all sailing clubs.

All of the Above – So what does this all mean? Whether you enjoy building and displaying a boat, a relaxing sail to bring you back to nature, or you want to compete for the national championship, there is a place for you in model sailing. And don’t forget the camaraderie of all those that enjoy the art and beauty of sailing.

Get an RC sailboat today and go sailing – it will bring a smile to your face whether alone or in a group.

Nirvana Race Tuning

Nirvanas are uniformly produced and regulated by a rule that prevents owners from modifying their boats in such a way as to gain a boat speed advantage.  Therefore, to get the best boat speed for the conditions, you need to understand tuning.

Tuning is a skipper skill that is learned and perfected with practice. Not all successful sailors agree on every aspect of tuning, but we generally agree on the basics.  Exact settings are not useful – it is the concepts that count, along with building experience.

 

Vocabulary/Definitions

I have laid out some terminology so that we are all talking about the same parts.

Stays – Stays run fore and aft on the Nirvana. They adjust the top of the mast forward and back. The forward stay is called the forestay! How odd. It can also be correctly called a jib stay in this case because it runs through the luff of the jib.

Shrouds – Often referred to as side stays but that is generally because you have forgotten the word Shroud. These lines/wires support the mast sideways.

Sheets – These are the lines that trim the sails. The line to the jib is the jib sheet, and the line to the mainsail is the mainsheet.

Outhauls – These are lines attached to the clew (lower, rear corner) of each sail. We have two lines attached to each clew on each sail. The aft one is the outhaul, the other is a leech tension line, or take down. Outhauls on Nirvanas are normally attached to O-rings on their respective booms.

Halyards – The line that holds the sail up.  In models we don’t actually have running halyards, per se, since we never lower the sails.  Instead we just tie them up, but for reference, that is the halyard. These lines are attached to the top (head) of each sail.

Downhauls – Downhauls are not generally needed on Nirvanas.  The stiffness of polyethylene sails does not allow the sail to bunch up along the luff, nor is the downhaul capable of stretching the luff (polyethylene does not stretch).  If used at all, a downhaul is simply a preventer to keep the luff of the sail down in place.  There is no downhaul on the Nirvana as produced.

Rake – Rake indicates the lean of the mast fore and aft. Not to be mistaken with mast bend.

Twist – If you look up (or down) the leach (trailing edge) of each sail, twist is the curve from side to side. A lot of twist appears as an “S”, where very little twist is nearly straight.

Slot – When sailing to windward (into the wind), slot is the amount of space the wind has to pass between the jib and main.

Balance – For the purposes of this article, balance refers to how well the boat self steers. A perfectly balanced boat has a small, but noticeable, demand to turn into the wind if the steering is left neutral. See Weather Helm.

Weather Helm – is the tendency of the boat to turn into the wind – actually the amount of weather helm is measured in the amount of effort put into holding the boat in a straight line. If you are turning your rudder any sizeable amount to prevent the boat from turning into the wind, the rudder is causing unnecessary drag slowing the boat down. To correct, you need to “balance” the boat.

Sails – The three edges of the sail are: leading edge – luff; trailing edge – leech; bottom edge – foot.  The three corners are: top (luff/leech) – head; bottom (luff/foot) – tack; bottom (leech/foot) – clew.

Draft – In this tuning article, draft is the amount of belly/camber placed in the sails by moving the outhaul connection on the boom forward ~ not the other meaning for draft (the amount of water that your boat needs to keep from running aground).

Boom Vang – When the wind strikes the sail, the boom wants to rise, allowing the sail to “twist” out of shape. The jib pivot attachment provides a cantilever effect to keep the rear end of the jib boom from rising but the mainsail needs a physical line connected to the boom and the bottom of the mast. That is the boom vang.

 

Tuning Concepts

These concepts are the same for most boats whether models or crewed boats.

Balance – For optimum performance, a boat must be balanced so that it has a slight tendency to turn into the wind if steering is left in a neutral position. If the boat turns away from the wind, or turns violently into the wind, balance is not correct.

Balance is affected by quite a number of variables. But we will only address those variables that you can adjust easily, mainly the rigging and the sail set.

The overall effort of the sails is consolidated to a single point called the “center of effort” (CE).  For you, the CE is someplace, and it is not worth figuring it out.  All you know is that you can adjust the CE forward and aft by changing the angle of the rig.

The boat itself has a center of collective forces, but you cannot change that as the position and size of the rudder, keel, and the shape of the hull are all fixed in the original design.

So all you can adjust is the rake (lean) of the mast, and the trim of the sails (draft, angle).

Specifically, there are three adjustments that move the center of effort of the sails fore and aft – the draft of the sails, the rake of the mast, and the position of the jib (forestay).

Rake – If you find that your boat has too much weather helm (wants to round into the wind violently), your rig may be raked too far aft.   (top of mast behind the foot of the mast). If your boat tends to turn away from the wind when your steering is centered, then you have lee helm. In this case, your rake is too far forward.

I highly recommend with Nirvana that you stand the mast straight up and down to start, as best you can see it – not leaning forward or aft. In this position, the boat is fairly well balanced in most conditions.  Step back from the boat and view the mast in relation to the keel fin.  They should be parallel.

To adjust rake, concentrate on the direction you are moving the head of the mast.  Move forward if you want to lessen weather helm, aft to increase.  How much is the question.

You can only know this by actually sailing the boat.  It helps to have a steady breeze the day you experiment so that the wind velocity factor doesn’t muddy the waters.

One thing I like to do is test the extremes, so I will normally rake the mast forward about an inch from vertical.  That should produce a marked difference in helm.  And then slowly move the rake aft until I get the desired gradual heading to windward with the rudder in neutral position.

Jib Pivot – We all jest over what the pivot line that connects the jib boom to the foredeck is called. Some call it the jib tack, some the jib takedown or downhaul, some (like me) simply call it the jib pivot. Whatever you call it, the deck fitting it attaches to cannot be moved (by class regulation), but the connection to the jib boom can be made adjustable. As the boat is delivered, the jib pivot line is tied through a hole in the jib boom, but you can substitute a string ring connector to help with what follows.

If the pivot is further back on the boom, then that means the sail is further forward in relation to the boat. The sail being further forward moves the center of effort of the jib further forward, which, in turn, moves the entire sail plan’s center of effort further forward. Remember that moving the center of effort further forward lessens weather helm, the same as raking forward.

Draft – Drafting your sails is a double-edged sword. In light winds, you need to draft your sails (put belly in them) because these sails have no shape of their own. Curvature (draft) is power to drive the boat through the wind and water in lighter winds.   Another aspect of draft is that it moves the center of effort aft – increasing weather helm.  This is fine in light winds but when the wind starts to blow harder, if you don’t remove draft from your sails, you will find your boat fighting to head into the wind (weather helm) and she will bog down with all the rudder drag.

To put draft into your sails, move the clew adjustment ring on the booml forward.  This will allow the foot of the sail to develop more curve (camber) while maintaining leech tension. On the Nirvana, as initially rigged, the outhaul goes to an O ring which you slide forward. The leech tension line stays a fixed length (around the boom and through the clew grommet)

Drafting is done on both sails with more draft used in light winds and less and less as the wind velocity increases. You will know when to reduce the draft in your sails by the trouble you are having steering the boat.

Sail Twist/Boom Vang – The rig on the jib boom of a model is considerably different that on a crewed boat.  The jib pivot is connected part way aft on the boom.  Therefore the tension on the forestay at the forward end of the jib boom uses the jib pivot to cantilever tension into the leech of the jib which helps with sail shape in most wind conditions.

Often we talk about leech tension on the mainsail using the term “twist” ~ more twist or less twist. So let’s make sure you know what you are trying to do with the amount of twist you allow.

Generally, in light winds you want very little twist in the leech of your mainsail. That is because the leech of the sail is your driving force to windward and you need the sail from bottom to top. As the wind increases and you start sailing the boat with the rail down, it is wise to add more twist. This allows the top sections of the sail leech to “open”, spilling wind from the top of the sail. This keeps the driving force of the bottom of the sail while spilling wind up high where it does more to heel the boat compared to driving it.

Two things affect twist in the mainsail. The first is the angle of trim on the outhaul. If equal tension is placed on the foot and the leech of the sail (45 degree angle on outhaul), then the leech of the sail will tend to twist more because the leech of the sail is much longer than the foot.  So in light winds, sliding the outhaul forward a bit will put more tension on the leech than on the foot, keeping the twist in the sail to a minimum.

Second is the tension on the boom vang. The boom vang holds the boom down which maintains the tension you have set in the leech of the. Without the boom vang, the boom will rise, slacking the leech and cause the sail to lose all power.  When talking about the jib, the jib pivot cantilever acts like a boom vang keeping the leech taught as the wind increases.

The only variation to keeping the boom vang set tight is in rough seas or puffy wind. In these conditions, the boom vang should be slackened slightly to allow the sail to twist (breath). As the boat hobby-horses through the waves or is hit by puffs, the sail will twist and straighten which pumps the boat through the water, while keeping her on her feet.

 

Boat Speed

As I mentor other model sailors, the thing I emphasize most is BOAT SPEED!!! Without boat speed it doesn’t make any difference how good a tactician you are, or how well you have tuned your boat.

So what is boat speed – how do you measure it? Unfortunately when you are out sailing by yourself, you don’t always recognize subtle differences in boat speed. So you usually need to be sailing with another boat close by so you can gauge relative boat speed. There are some visual clues that you should learn, things you can see when you are not right next to another boat.

Heel angle – Often when you are sailing to windward, the angle of heel is an indicator of whether you are sailing with your sails at the right angle of attack (angle to the oncoming wind).  It is possible to sail on an angle too close to the wind, but still with the sails not luffing.  In this case, it is the change in angle of heel that is the indicator.  So whenever your boat is sailing along and then stands up, only two things can be the reason.  One is that the wind, or the boat, has changed direction and the pressure in the sails has reduced because the angle of attack is not correct.  You will hear the term “pinching” to describe sailing too close to the wind.  Your reaction must be to turn away from the direction of the wind slightly and see if the boat heels again and picks up speed.

The other reason for an abrupt decrease in angle of heel is that the wind has momentarily decreased.  So if you turn away from the wind as above, and the heel does not increase, resume your original heading until the wind returns.

Unfortunately, observing the angle of heel does not help sailors understand that they are not pointing high enough (close enough) to the angle of the wind.  In this case, your sails are full, and they look good, and you have an angle of heel based on the wind velocity.  Even though the sails become less efficient in this position (to big an angle of attack), it is not boat speed that is the problem but the boat direction.  So if you are sailing with other boats, and you are sailing at a different angle to the wind than a boat near you, and about the same speed, the boat sailing closer to the wind will clearly arrive at the windward mark first.

Both the issue of sailing too close to the wind (small angle of attack), and two far off the wind (wide angle of attack) is almost impossible to read in the sails.  In the “too close” to the wind issue, use heel to help you.  In “too far off”, you must rely on others sailing near you to see if you are close enough to the wind.  Of course a good technique when sailing to windward is to occasionally head closer to the wind to see for sure that you are maintaining your proper angle of attack.  If you head up and your boat stands up, you know you were sailing at the best angle of attack, and you should immediately fall off and continue sailing.  This is often called “feeling” for the wind.

I have not mentioned telltales.  Properly placed telltales can help you with being too far off the wind, but do practically nothing to help you with being “too close” to the wind.  When you are too far off the wind telltales attached to the jib will show you by “winding up” the leeward telltale.  When both jib telltales are streaming you know you are close enough to the wind, but unfortunately, they will both stream if you are headed right into the wind!

Side-slip. If you see your boat going slightly sideways compared to similar boats nearby – we sometimes call this “crabbing”, you need to slack your sails a little, turn away from the wind slightly, and get your boat speed up. Proper boat speed keeps the fins in the water (keel and rudder) from stalling. When the boat slows and you have wind pressure in the sails, the fins can stall causing side-slip or crabbing. You will learn to see this and avoid it.

Over steering – Many sailors slow their progress with way too much steering.  Practice steering with a steady hand so that your boat changes direction without jerky movements.  Rapid steering adjustments are just like putting on the brakes because when you turn the rudder quickly, it drags through the water momentarily.  Besides, there is less distance between two points if you sail a straight line!

Practice, practice, practice – Adjustments to your boat and proper handling based on your visuals of the boat, all take practice. NOTHING takes the place of “stick time”. The more you sail, the more you will learn the visual clues talked about here. You will learn the adjustments we have spoken about above because you will have done some trial and error. And, you will have learned to keep your Boat Speed up so that your boat will handle better and win more races for you. Good luck.

Your comments or questions are always welcomed, as I can never seem to remember everything I want to write.  But these guides will help you get to the top of the fleet if you practice, practice, practice!!!!

Nirvana in Salt Water?

The Megatech manual says “no!”, but we say “yes!”

We (SailRC) have always contended that Nirvana is as suitable in salt water as any boat in her price range, if not even more suitable.  “Price range” has to do with the quality of the “stainless” steel used in this boat, and some of the other corrosive metals like the rudder post.  The composite construction of the hull/deck, keel, rudder, spars and sails is as good as boats three times the expense.

Electronics do get wet in most sailboats, even very expensive ones – so you need to adopt procedures for maintenance that maintain electronics that are prone to getting wet or working in a damp atmosphere.

Getting wet with salt water and fresh water causes the same immediate issues.  The difference with salt water is that when the water dries the salt remains to attract more moisture.  So sailing in salt water adds the extra maintenance step to rinse salt water off boat (and electronics if they have gotten wet) before drying.

I carry a small fresh water spray bottle to wash salt water off the electronics if they get wet while sailing.  Then after preliminary drying, I always stick a hairdryer (on low) in the electronics compartment for 15-20 minutes to completely heat and dry all the electrical fittings and servos.

Another trick for maintaining electronics is to drown them in Corrosion X at least once a season to keep a protective barrier on your working electrics.  Do NOT use WD 40 or similar.  Corrosion X is the product and it has recently been sold by Home Depot.

The rudder post on Nirvana is a problem, especially around salt water, because of the dissimilar metals used.  The rudder post is a mild steel, and the shaft log is brass.  If not lubricated faithfully, the post will freeze into the shaft log (tube), requiring considerable effort to free and repair.  I make sure to remove the rudder every day or two when sailing in salt water to make sure the lubricant I use is evident and doing the job. ALWAYS lubricate before storing for more than a week!  Any light grease is good, I use Vaseline.

The other metal parts on the boat (screws, wires, etc) may “bleed” a little if not cleaned and dried after sailing, but that is more aesthetic damage than physical.

Bottom line, you can safely enjoy your boat in salt water – it just takes a little care afterwards (as with all boats) to keep certain parts operational.

Will it Capsize?

Capsize – to turn bottom up, overturn.

Most of the time when sailors discuss capsizing, they are referring to “turning a boat over”, and they are usually talking about a small boat that is ballasted by the crew. For the most part, this terminology means bringing the mast level to the water or even down under water, so the bottom of the boat is exposed – but more importantly, the boat stops and is inoperable in a capsized position.

So – does the term “capsize” apply to an RC sailboat? Not really. The vast majority of model sailboats are ballasted by a keel. If the wind blows hard enough to knock the boat down (sails flat in the water), the boat will still recover on its own and continue to sail because the keel ballast is in position to right the boat as soon as the wind lets up a little. So you will often hear the term “knocked down” rather than capsize.

This is a classic picture of an RC Laser caught in a big puff going downwind. We call this roll to windward a “death roll” because it is a well known predicament on the full sized Laser where the skipper is usually on the opposite side of the boat from the boom, and as you can see, would be “in the water” at this point, and the full sized Laser would most certainly capsize on top of the skipper to make matters ever worse!  But in this picture, the model has a keel that is about to bring this RC Laser back on her feet. So technically the boat does not capsize, but is just knocked-down momentarily.  This is the moment the model skipper mumbles to himself “sure glad I wasn’t on board for that death roll!”  🙂

Since most models are watertight to the point they will not quickly fill with water when knocked down, they are not out of commission.  So the next time some one asks you, “will it capsize”, the answer is really “No”.  But don’t try to explain!

Setting up the race course

I am working to start a local regatta in my area, and need some basic information on how to setup a race course. I read that you can easily make racing markers out of empty plastic bottles. What is the best way to get the markers set in the correct positions, and what is the best way to weigh them down? Do I need to bring a kayak out to the course, or can I set it up from the shore? What is the suggested distance between markers?

Also, what are throw outs, and how many should be set?

Capt. Jack – I have seen and made them all from casual sailing destination buoys – to national championships buoys where precise placement is critical as well as the buoy itself.

In the beginning, you can use just about anything that floats but it should be at least the size of a 1 gallon jug. The anchor can be a brick, and the line no more than simple fishing line.  To avoid catching passing boat keels, the anchor line should go straight down under the buoy.  To do that a small counter weight on the opposite end on the line from the anchor, which is routed through a turning fitting on the buoy, will keep the tension in the anchor line, and the buoy relatively close to vertically above the anchor.
As to where ~ in championship racing we are concerned first that markers are no further from where the skipper is standing than 300 feet.  Actually in club racing, 200 feet is more manageable.  If you can walk up and down the shore, then the markers can be further apart than 200-300 feet, it is depth perception that is the factor here, thus it is range from the skipper that really counts.
Where buoys are for championship racing, positioning is based on which way the wind is blowing.  One end of the course is located where the wind is coming from, the other end straight down wind from the first.  It is always beneficial  if the wind blows in a direction parallel to the shore where the skippers are.  Then put a starting line in the middle – start tacking into the wind to the windward mark and then go down wind to the leeward mark, and then return to the start/finish line.  Because inland lake sailing is plagued with lots of shifting winds, clubs often put out an array of buoys (our club uses 10), so we can pick the marks for each race based on where the wind is blowing from.
Often clubs put out permanent buoys – our club has permanent anchors but because surrounding residents don’t all appreciate our brightly colored marks on their lake, we use snap-on buoys and decoy ducks.  After sailing, we simply snap on the duck, and snap off the buoy, and we have a bunch of ducks floating around looking quite natural.
Throw-out buoys are another thing, and I will be glad to explain those to you if you will question directly.  A person that is experienced in throwing throw-out buoys can only get them out about 80-100 feet from shore.  And it takes a technique that takes a little learning.  Thus there isn’t much call for throw-outs unless there is a real need to launch and retrieve all buoys every time you sail and they can be within 80 feet from the shore.
Yes, a kayak or small boat is invaluable for launching and retrieving buoys.  Some clubs have built RC power boats with special hooks to launch and retrieve marks and anchors, but most are very inefficient and not worth the effort in my view.
Hope my 14 years of messing with RC sailboat buoys helps.

Nirvana Class International Racing Rule

Published 2/1/12
The radio controlled Nirvana was designed and engineered for production by Jon Elmaleh in 2003. Nirvana is produced by Megatech International Inc, hereinafter referred to as the builder.

The Nirvana is a One-Design class model sailboat whose specifications are regulated by the builder to insure uniform performance and quality control worldwide. This rule only pertains to those owners who wish to race their boat.

 

 

SECTION A – FUNDAMENTAL RULES STRUCTURE

A.1 One-Design Clause – The primary purpose of this class rule is to regulate all Nirvana sailboats throughout the world, used for racing, to be equal in all characteristics that affect performance.
Modifications -No modification, removal, or additions shall be made to any manufactured boat part unless it is specifically detailed in this document.
Manufactured Standard -Only boat parts manufactured by the builder (OEM) shall be used. (Hull, Keel, Rudder, Mast, Booms, Hatches, Cockpit seats, Sails)
A.2 Definitions
    Abbreviations
IRCNCA – International Nirvana Class Association
RRS – Racing Rules Of Sailing
MT – Megatech International- licensed builder
ISAF – International Sailing Federation
NA – National Authority
Language
English – The official language of the class is English and in case of dispute over translation the English text shall prevail.
Clarification -the word “shall” is mandatory and the word “may” is permissive.

A.3 Authority – The builder is the final authority for the terms and wording of this rule.

Rules Committee– – The builder may appoint a rules committee of knowledgeable boat owners. This committee shall advise the builder on rules issues raised by owners.
Owner Input – Any class boat owner, or group of owners, may propose a rule change, or rules discrepancy, to the Rules Committee for consideration. The Rules committee may propose such rule changes to the builder.
Legal Responsibility – Neither the ISAF, nor any NA, nor any recognized measurer is under any legal responsibility with respect to these class rules for accuracy of measurement, and no claim arising from them will be entertained.
Certificate – No measurement certificate is requiredhowever, boats are subject to inspection by the race committee at any time during a regatta or series to determine compliance with these regulations.
SECTION B – ORGANIZATION
B.1 Administration of the Class
Country or Regional Class Secretaries shall be appointed by the builder, or may be elected by a vote of class members when a sizeable, builder recognized, organization is formed in that particular country/region.
Communications – Communications to class members on class business shall be by web site, national affiliation publications and email where available.
SECTION C – AUTHORIZED MODIFICATIONS 
C.1 Electronic Equipment
Servos – No servo shall be modified electronically or mechanically from its factory default performance torque, speed and travel. However, other servos may be installed as long as their performance factors are not greater than listed here:
Sail Servo – Max torque in oz/in = 122/153 (4.8v/6.0v); Speed = .24/.20 (4.8v/6.0v) Only arm winches are authorized
Steer Servo – No restrictions.
On-Board Batteries – Nirvana electronics shall be powered by either 4 ea alkaline AA cells (6 v), or 4 ea NiCad/Nickel Metal Hydride rechargeable AA cells (4.8 v).
Antenna – The receiver antenna may be installed in any manner.
C.2 Hull & Deck
Hull Finish – The hull may be repaired, sanded, filled, and painted as long as the hull shape is not modified from the original in any way.
Hull & Deck Decoration – Any means is suitable – self-adhesive letters, tape, decals, or paint, may be used on the deck and hull.
Bow Bumpers – Class legal bow bumpers may be required by local authority for any competitive sailing.  There is only one class legal bow bumper.
Drain Hole – Drain holes may be installed in the bow or stern for draining the hull.
C.3 Underwater Appendages 
Keel and Rudder – The keel fin and bulb, and the rudder may be sanded and painted. The shape of the keel and rudder shall not be changed in any way. No filet is authorized where the keel fin enters the ballast or the hull.
C.4 Rigging
Rigging Lines – Lines used for mainsheet, jib sheet, outhauls, halyards, topping lifts, downhauls, boom vang, stays and shrouds may be of any material deemed suitable by the boat owner.
Booms – Standard booms may be shortened for better clearance but sail dimensions of the standard sails may not be altered. Additional sheet adjustment holes may be added to the boom. Alternate fittings for sail attachment and adjustment may be installed.
Fasteners – Clips or hooks of any kind may be used to fasten lines but should be of closed design so they do not catch rigging of near-by boats.
Mast Head Fitting (Crane) – The mast head crane may be drilled to provide alternate backstay attachment positions.
Gooseneck & Boom Vang Fittings – The gooseneck and boom vang mast fittings shall be used, however, the gooseneck swivel and the boom vang mechanism may be altered or substituted. The location of boom fitting, for the boom vang, shall not be changed.
Jib Swivel Fitting – The jib swivel deck fitting shall not be moved. The swivel, itself, may be of any configuration and length, and the location of the attachment point on the jib boom may be adjustable.
Topping Lifts – Topping lifts may be fitted to main and jib booms.
Down Hauls – Downhaul lines may be attached to each sail via one grommet at a time.
Halyards – Halyards may be attached to each sail via one grommet at a time.
Sheet Exit Hole – The location, size and shape of the exit hole in the electronics compartment starboard wall, through which the sheets pass, may be modified.
Sheet Attachment to Boom – Sheets may be attached to the boom by any fittings or method.
Shroud Rail Fittings – Shroud attachment fittings, and location on the rail, are optional, but shall be no further aft than 17″ measured from the front of the toe rail to the eye of the fitting, measured along the toe rail.
Wind Vanes & Tell Tales – Any type of wind direction indicator may be attached to the top of the mast, and tell tales may be used on the sails at owner’s descretion.
C.5 – SAILS
Attachments – Wind Flow indicators may be attached to any point of the sails and may be made of any material.
Repair – Sail damage may be repaired as long as repair does not stiffen or alter the size of the sail.
Sail Numbers – Nirvana sail numbers are a specific size, color and font and are located on the sails as specified in the Sail Number addendum attached to these rules.
Sail Graphics – Sails may be decorated using decals, tape or markers, but such markings shall not interfere with easy identification of the sail numbers or the class logo. Sail decorations may not significantly stiffen or change the shape/size of the sail.
Class Logo – The font, size, and location are as designated on the Sail Number addendum, when adopted.
Grommets – Grommets may be installed at any location on the clew, tack, or head, of either sail, however only one grommet at each corner of the sail may be used at one time.
Battens – Battens are optional, but if used shall be positioned, and be of the same dimensions, as on the standard OEM sails.

D. MISCELLANEOUS RACING RESTRICTIONS

Crew – The crew shall consist of one person, but may be more with special permission of the Race Committee.
E. PENDING RULE CHANGES
Minimum Weight – A minimum weight shall be determined. As soon as the appropriate investigation is complete, a suitable minimum weight will be designated. In the interim, all boats will sail with all original equipment on board except for those exceptions listed in C. above.
Sails – Smaller sails are being designed and tested to determine suitability for heavy weather sailing.

Products

Let us show you why all over the world, where ever you find serious RC enthusiasts and/or sailors, you’ll find our RC sailboats. Click on an image below to find out complete specs and features, and what makes each boat unique.

42″ RC Laser

32″ Nirvana

Wonder why we list only two product lines? That is because we are extremely picky.

We sail only the best so we sell only the best.

Tuning Tips for the RC Laser

Guidelines by Jon Elmaleh
as edited by Abigail Kelly and Steve Lang

The incredibly good design and engineering of the RC Laser leaves the skipper with a relatively small range of performance adjustments. Because there are so few, they are fairly critical.  What follows are basic guidelines to help you achieve greater performance from your RC Laser.

Adjusting sail shape is very important especially with respect to foot curve and leech twist. Knowing how much of each is based on practice and competition.  Basically, in a light wind, more foot curve and a less leach twist are best.  In a heavy wind, aim for less foot curve and more leech twist.

How are these sail adjustments made?
At the aft end of the boom are two sliders.  The forward one is for tensioning, the aft slider adjusts the angle of outhaul tension on the sail.  If you slide the aft slider forward, the tension angle is more down than out.  So tensioning in this position tightens the leech, and allows the foot to curve away from the boom (foot curve).  This produces draft that powers the boat in light wind.

As the aft slider is moved further aft, the angle of tension changes to distribute the tension more equally on the leech and the foot of the sail.  In this position, a puff of wind bends the mast causing the leach to twist spilling air – which helps the boat stay upright.  The lower section of the sail stays properly trimmed to help power the boat through the puff.

What is the proper amount of foot curve for a given wind condition?
A good indicator is boat balance (helm pressure).  If the boat is able to sail itself to windward with little or no steering correction (neutral helm), then the foot curve is about right. Too much weather helm (the boat rotating into the wind) indicates that you need to flatten the foot curve. A leeward helm (the boat falling off the wind) shows a need for an increased foot curve.

Sailing in choppy water
Increasing leech twist helps prevent stalling the sail as the boat pitches through the waves.  Because waves do not always relate to current wind velocity, this is a tricky setting to make. Don’t worry about a little windward helm in choppy conditions since it helps you find the wind.

Proper boom position
Most top sailors agree that sailing upwind with the boom just inside the aft corner of the stern is the proper location.  Pulling the sail further inboard (pinching) produces a boat that goes upwind at a closer angle, but it travels much slower through the water.  This position is only useful for short distances to get around a mark or obstacle.  With the boom just inside the aft corner of the boat, you will find the RC Laser develops the best speed, and angle to windward.

Electronic boom positioning
It is often difficult to see the position of the boom from shore while you are sailing.  Therefore, the following electronic and sheet adjustments allow you to know where the boom is by the position of your transmitter controls.

With the radio system on, place the sail control lever (left) all the way down (the full-in position).  Set the fine tune slider next to the control lever, in the middle of its range.

Now adjust the length of the mainsheet (black string) so that the boom is positioned just inside the corner of the transom (should be done with the sail mounted).

The idea is that when you sail to windward, you push the sail lever all the way down and put the fine tune slider in the middle.  That is your base position where your sail will be properly set for most of your windward sailing.

If you need to pinch up to pass an obstacle or a mark, move the slider down and it will bring in the sail to the centerline of the boat.  If you have been slowed by waves, tacking, or another boat, you may want to push the fine tune slider up to let the sail out a little as you foot off to gain speed.

Mast bend
In light winds do not tension the outhaul to the point where it bends the mast.  At the opposite end of the scale, when the wind is blowing hard, slide your aft slider all the way aft, and you will tension the sail so that there is little or no foot curve.  Tension the outhaul to bend the mast so it pretty well fills out the luff pocket (leading edge of the sail).  Obviously there is a lot of variation based on the wind speed.

When to Switch Sails?
Basically, when you begin to dive while sailing downwind, you should switch to a smaller sail. Many sailors carry big sails too long, and their performance is compromised by loss of control.  There is very little difference in boat speed between sail sizes in the crossover wind ranges and keeping control is often the deciding factor.  Experience will help you determine the best time to change.

Steering
Concentrate on steering your boat in a straight line – remember the shortest distance between two points is a straight line.  Over-steering is a common mistake in model sailboats.  Focus on smoothing out your steering and you will earn big rewards in performance.

Also remember that every time you turn sharply, the rudder acts as a brake, slowing your boat speed.

Slight Changes
Tuning is done by degrees. Shades of adjustment make a difference.  Tuning is not a mystery, but one that takes practice until you find the groove.  These guidelines are just that, the parameters within which you will find the right combination to get the very best performance from your boat.

On the other hand, you can have a perfectly tuned boat and move your thumb in the wrong direction and . . .   J  So don’t fret over tuning, follow the basic guidelines and it will come to you.

Fairwind III

$499.00

This RC Sailboat looks incredible on display or on the water – and it sails nice, too!

For a limited time, we are offering free shipping to any address in the continental US via UPS Ground. When you purchase a boat – all accessories ordered at the same time will ship free.

SKU: F3RTS
Posted in Fairwind III.
Tagged as Fairwind III, fiberglass, Kyosho, RC sailboat, sailing, salt water safe.

Product Description

One of the most beautiful RC sailboats available today.

  • Hull and deck molded in fiberglass – completely finished with all deck fittings installed, rudder installed, keel is molded as part of hull.
  • Mast and booms are shaped, extruded aluminum. Mast is two-piece, main mast and boom is slotted for mainsail.
  • Sails made of polished dacron.
  • Entire rig comes assembled and is owner installed and removed quickly and easily with six simple hooks.
  • All electronics are installed and adjusted.
  • Boat electrics on-off switch on deck – waterproof.
  • Very easy access to all internal parts through large hatch.
  • Ballast steel shot is supplied with two-part epoxy for easy owner installation. (Not factory installed to protect boat in shipment.)
  • Two channel FM radio system (requires owner added 12 AA batteries for 4-5 hours sailing time).
  • Boat is corrosion resistant and salt water safe.
  • Wooden scissor display stand included.
  • Looks as good on display as sailing on water.

Overall Length – 35.4″
Length Waterline – 34.5″
Beam – 8.8″
Draft – 11.5″
Mast top above deck – 48″
Bottom of keel to top of mast – 53″

Sail Area
Standard Rig 710 sq. in.
Competition Rig 600 sq. in.
Displacement 9 lbs.

Seawind is About to Enter “Stage Left”

Kyosho predicted the new Seawind would be in the US by the end of Jan 2014, but now that we have passed that date, they are saying sometime in February . . . and so it goes.

SailRC represented Kyosho selling the Seawind when it was only available as a kit, but eventually dropped it because there were not enough customers that wanted to build a kit.  So now, after a couple of years out of production, we are very excited to have the boat coming back on line in a ready-to-sail configuration.

As soon as we can get one of the new boats in our hands, we will write a full breakdown evaluation complete with a sailing report.  I know this model very well having built over 30 for Seawind owners from the kit version, and from racing her sparingly for about a year (2d in the 2007 Nationals).

In any respect, keep an eye on our website since we have already placed our order and expect them to be available to ship in late February or early March or . . . . . when they get to us.

Seawind is a great boat.  It’s sexy, fun to sail, and doesn’t have any bad habits.  It also has a very nicely organized racing class in the US.  So smile is you have always wanted a Seawind.  And if you haven’t always wanted one – consider it.    Steve

Once a Sailor…

My name is Steve Lang – and I have led a very full and rich life. When I was 8 years old, my father and mother came home one day and announced we would be moving onto a 60 foot sailboat . . . permanently! When we pulled up to the dock in Essex, Connecticut, you can imagine the excitement of a young boy about to embark on a magnificent adventure.

Thus began a three year, full immersion process of becoming a sailor. Unknown to me at the time, my father had been given 6 months to live and therefore, this was to be his final fulfillment in life. He was only 36. In a hurry to get it all in, we shortly took off from the calmness of dockside never to return to Essex. I learned the feel of a boat, night and day in the ocean, sailing in all conditions ~ steering, eating off a gimbaled table, and basic navigation. Life at sea was much like flying, hours and hours of the tranquil joys of sailing, punctuated with moments of shear mind numbing terror.

When three years expired, and my father hadn’t, my mother demanded to go ashore (“like normal people”). We did, but now we are in St. Petersburg, Florida.

I grew up in St. Petersburg where racing sailboats at the St. Petersburg Yacht Club was a full time sport. My father was at my side from the first time I touched the wheel on our big boat through all those years of racing dinghies. As I neared graduation from high school, I had raced most of the popular boats of the day – Lightnings, Thistles, Bantams, Flying Dutchmans, Snipes, Luders, Y-Flyers, etc. I was already on course for West Point, the US Military Academy. My father was a Colonel in the US Army, and always looked forward to my attending the academy. Unfortunately, one week after I graduated from High School, my father suddenly died. He had earned 11 wonderful years past his six month sentence.

In 1963, I graduated from West Point, a 2nd Lieutenant in the Army, headed for my beloved tanks. I married my high school sweetheart, now a registered nurse, and away we went with nothing in our pockets but dreams for the future. In addition to normal duties, I was selected to go to the Defense Language Institute in Monterey, CA. There I studied the Thai language for 13 months. As a reward for my fluent command of Thai, I was next stationed in Korea!%#, where I was the liaison officer to a Thai unit remaining there from the Korean War.

My last big adventure in the Army was combat in Vietnam. There I served six months with a Thai division before getting command of my own U.S. tank company. Even though war is no fun, it was the highlight of my military career. On my wall are the awards I earned there, including three awards of the Bronze Star with “V” device for valor, which only serves to bring back memories of the brave men that fought and those who died by my side. Unfortunately, there was no nobler mission in Vietnam than bringing home as many of those men as I could.

Steve in Vietnam 1970

I returned to civilian life in 1970, and guess where I headed? Back to boats. Within a year, I formed a corporation, Fleet Indigo, to operate a charter fleet of sailboats out of Tortola, British Virgin Islands. In the following 10 years I expanded the operation to 70 boats and a new fleet in Belize, Central America.

In 1985, while sitting on my back porch in Florida, I conceived the idea of building a pond business. I knew just enough to be dangerous, but within six months, I had firmly established my new company, Southern Garden Ponds. Within two years I was hamming it up at the podium teaching hundreds of folks the inside secrets of making back yard ponds work. I loved this completely different part of my life and was totally immersed in ponds until 1991.

All of a sudden my bride and I had no children left at home. Both daughters had completed college and were on their own. We had been living in St. Petersburg, but not liking it very much. On a winter ski trip to Colorado with high school friends, we realized that we had always wanted to return to Colorado, where we were first stationed in the Army nearly 30 years before. So we abruptly sold our home, my pond business, and headed west.

We found our place in Evergreen, a mountain town just west of Denver, Colorado. In 1992, I decided to build my bride of 30 years a new home on a ridge at 8600 feet of elevation. Over that winter, I was able to take a kit of lumber, plumbing, wiring, windows, etc., and single-handedly build our new home in heavily forested wilderness. Here we thoroughly enjoyed the mountains, snow shoeing, back country skiing, hiking, kayaking, and hot tubbing for 11 years before my high school sweetheart unexpectedly died of cancer!

It took me almost two years to even think about going on, but now I am fully immersed in RC sailing and distribute RC sailboats and teach model sailing all over the country. I am a kid again in many respects. I am racing and enjoying all my new friends – and I rarely go anywhere without my dog.  In 2007, I remarried to Judy, and within a year we left Colorado and moved to TN where the living was a little less demanding in the winter.

Sailing the Geezer

Of course we choose a community with a premier model sailing lake and facility, where I can now sail almost year round.  Life is good.

Steve

How to Set Up Main Halyard on the Nirvana RC Sailboat

The top of the sail often fits improperly allowing the trailing edge of the sail (leech) to be loose. at the top. An easy solution is to tie the halyard around the mast to the hole in the front of the mast crane. This will hold the head of the sail both up and forward eliminating the leech tension problem.

Loosie Goosie

Help! I have a loose gooseneck on my RC Laser. Now what?

Here is all you need:
• A ruler of some sort
• Your mast
• Your gooseneck
• Gorilla Glue or similar glue
• A rag

 

Apply glue around the mast from the 4 ½” mark to about the 6 ½” mark. Slide the gooseneck down over the glue and spin it a few times to evenly distribute the glue. Check to make sure the base is 4 ½” from the base of the mast and clean off any  excess glue. Let it dry.

 

RC Laser Manual – Diagrams and How To’s

Every once in a while, we are asked for another copy of the manual that comes with every new RC Laser.

We are posting it here to help existing RC Laser owners with their boats and for new owners of a used RC Laser. Your RC Laser will likely last longer than the manual…so rest assured, we will keep it available online.

For those of you who do not have an RC Laser yet – this will give you an idea of how great the RC Laser is.

***Please Note! The manual does need to be updated. We have included the 2012 addendum to cover a few of these changes.***

This is in the format of a printed book to be stapled down the middle. Watch the page numbers to follow it online or print it and staple it to read it in order.

RC Laser Manual 2006

RC Laser Manual Addendum 2012

This entry was posted in RC Laser on  by Theresa Rae Gay.

Which Boat?

At first glance the array of RC sailboats can be overwhelming. We want to break it down so that you can make a wise choice and then get on with the Joy of Sailing. All RC model sailboats use the power of the wind for propulsion, and all use the same basic radio equipment for handing as RC boat

RC Model Sailboats

Categories – There are two basic categories of RC model sailboats, “one-design” and “developmental”.

  • One design– Radio controlled sailboatsin a one-design class must adhere to strict class uniformity. The uniformity is applied to the features of the boat that affect performance. The purpose of one-design, is to ensure that sailor’s skill will be the primary factor in the outcome of races among boats of that class. One-design boats appeal to those who would rather sail and race on equal terms and enjoy a good support system of other owners and a strong class organization.One-design model sailboats hold their value well because they do not become obsolete and  are also easier to buy because they are very specific and come either ready-to-sail or in very complete kits.
  • RC Lasers racing at Marco Island, FL

  • Developmental RC Sailboats– RC Sailboats in developmental classes have only a few standard specifications. For instance, they may be restricted in length and the amount of sail area they can carry. But they might not have restrictions on how the hull is designed, how heavy it must be, etc. These boats appeal to those that like to work on building a better mousetrap. Normally developmental boats are not a good choice for newcomers because the bits and pieces that make up the boat come from all over and there is little support for someone to learn how to sail because the boats are rigged so differently.
    • US One Meter shown by Jim Linville

    • MisIdentified Boats – There are a number of RC sailboats on the market that call themselves One-Design, BUT they allow a number of performance related modifications. In fact, they are not one-design at all.  I would caution you to look into the class racing rule and see if the class you are considering allows modifications that affect performance. If they do, no matter what they are called, they are not one-design if you can change major parts, sails, keel, rudder, weight, change shapes of these items, whatever.
    SailRC Commitment – We sell and service only true one-design boats because we know your investment is sound, and the enjoyment suitable for all newcomers. In fact, one-designs are the choice for many of the world’s greatest racing sailors because it tests sailing skill not how much money is invested to have a faster boat.

    Classes – Above we have talked about CATEGORIES of boats, One-Design or Developmental. Now, let’s talk classes. An RC sailboat class does not refer to classification as much as it refers to a name, a recognized group of sailboats that normally race against each other.

    • RC Laser – The most popular class of one-design RC sailboat in the world is the RC Laser. There are thousands of RC Lasers sailing around the world (Over 9000 in North America alone). No matter where you go, you will find fleets of RC Lasers sailing and racing on even terms because all the boats are exactly the same. All hulls molded in one mold, all sails are cut from the same pattern and made in only one shop, all authorized parts supplied come from a single manufacturer with no modifications allowed – period. Like most one design RC sailboats, however, owners may personalize their boats in appearance, colors, graphics, etc., since these variations have no affect of performance.
    • 50/800 or Marblehead – Another class of RC sailboat is the 50/800, so called because it is restricted to 50″ overall, and 800 sq inches of sail area. This is an old class of boats dating back to the early 1900s. However, many of the older Marbleheads are no longer competitive with newer designs because this is a developmental class. As the boat develops, it gets faster . . . and normally more expensive. Older boats become obsolete and lose value quickly. Except for their size limitations, you may not even recognize that you are looking at a Marblehead.  These highly developed and sophisticated boats are fun to sail, but are not at all appropriate for a beginner.
    • Roy Langbord tweaking his Marblehead – Goebel Photo

      So what’s right for you? – If you are new to sailing, we highly recommend that you buy into a real one-design class. Because they are identically produced, they are less expensive to buy (better value) than a developmental RC sailboat, and they hold their value well. Also, most one-design model RC sailboats come complete either in kit or ready-to-sail form. That means you won’t need to run around looking for all the required parts.

      If you enjoy the challenge of the cutting edge of development, developmental boats are for you. There are many great classes that you can choose from, just don’t start there.

      Last word – Since model RC sailboats are so INexpensive compared to real sailboats, RC sailors often own several boats, some one-design, and some developmental.

      As mentioned, SailRC offers the very best in radio controlled sailboats – one-design only. We support all owners with specific hands-on knowledge because we know every piece and function of the models we sell.

      This entry was posted in RC Laser, Nirvana and tagged “radio controlled sailboats”, “laser sailboat”, “rc sailboat”, “sailboat drawing”, “rc laser”, “rc laser sailboat”, “nirvana radio”, seawind, “rc sailing”, “rc sailboats” on  by Steve Lang.

Nirvana

Product Specifications

Hull
Length overall: 32 inches

Height
Bottom of keel to top of mast: 64 inches

Beam
maximum width: 7.75 inches

Weight
Sailing weight w/batteries: 5.5 pounds

Draft
Depth of water needed to sail: 13″

Sail Area
Total of main and jib: 525 square inches

For more expanded information on the features of the Nirvana, check out a couple of articles:

RC Laser

The Finest Radio Controlled Sailboat in the World

Below are the specifications of this terrific model followed by some of the feature highlights. There are many more articles on the Skippers Log about this remarkable types of sailboat as well.

Specifications:

Length Deck 41.5″
Length Waterline 37.75″
Beam 13.5″
Draft 17″
Main Hoist 50″
Mast top above deck 54″
Bottom of keel to top of mast 73″
Sail Area
A
B
C
D
949 sq. in.
710 sq. in.
600 sq. in.
525 sq. in.
Displacement 9 lbs.

 

Features:

  • Hull and deck molded in one piece polypropylene
  • Mast is tapered fiberglass composite, two piece
  • Sail is sleeved to slide over the mast. Sail is made of non-woven polyester composite film
  • Mast is stepped into a non-captive deck step that allows mast to swivel. There is no standing rigging
  • Gooseneck fitting is fixed so boom vang is not necessary
  • Keel and rudder snap in and out in an instant – no tools
  • Easy access to radio compartment via snap-lid port
  • Easy to adjust stainless outhaul sliders on boom
  • All parts are interchangeable and inexpensive to replace
  • Full On Board electronics to include class approved servos for sail and steering
  • Two channel AM Radio system (drum sail winch, steering servo installed)
  • Batteries not included – requires 8 or 12 ea AA batteries, either alkaline or rechargeable
  • Boat is corrosion resistant and salt water safe

Charger

$17.00

NX83 Delta Peak Charger – for your rechargeable RC needs

*Please note, this will not work with the transmitter that comes with the 2014 Nirvana as there is no place to plug it in. We apologize.

SKU: CHARGER
Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Accessories.
Tagged as NX83, rechargeable batteries, Transmitter, trickle charger, spektrum, JST.

NX83 Delta Peak Charger. This is a trickle charger that brings TX and RX cells up to full strength over night, and then continues to hold all batteries at peak strength without fear of overcharging.

For the RC Laser:
One charger lead plugs into either the 5-pack RC Laser rechargeable battery or the battery holder for the receiver. The other lead plugs into the transmitter. Therefore, no batteries need to be handled at all. Lights on the charger indicate that proper connection is made.

For the Nirvana (not 2014 version*), Seawind and most other RC sailboats:
One charger lead plugs into the battery holder for the receiver. The other lead plugs into the transmitter. Therefore, no batteries need to be handled at all. Lights on the charger indicate that proper connection is made.

*We are sorry to say that the 2014 Nirvana transmitter does NOT have a place to plug the charger into.

The lead that plugs into the transmitters has an option for either positive (most transmitters) or negative (Spektrum transmitters). Check to see if your transmitter has a place to plug it in and you are all set!

Check out our recharge kits – great way to get batteries and charger at a special price.
RC Laser 8 (includes 5 pack for boat plus 8 AA for TX)
RC Laser 4 (includes 5 pack for boat plus 4 AA for TX)
Nirvana 8 (includes 8 AA for boat plus 8 AA for TX) – also for Seawind, Fairwind and other RC sailboats
Nirvana 4* (includes 4 AA for boat plus 8 AA for TX) – also for Seawind, Fairwind and other RC sailboats
*2014 Nirvana does NOT have a place to plug the charger into – we apologize.

SailRC is not a warranty service station for any electronics company. We are pretty good at troubleshooting most of our electronics but even we have a hard time keeping up with new technology. We will troubleshoot your issue on the phone and if we cannot resolve your issue, we will send you directly to a manufacturer’s service rep to get a resolution (either repair or replacement). We will NOT be sending you overseas to any manufacturer – all service centers we use are in the US!

Wind Vane

$16.00 $14.00

Very light and sensitive wind vane for the top of the mast.

SKU: WIND
Posted in Miscellaneous, Nirvana, Accessories, RC Laser, Accessories, Explorer, Accessories, Dragon Force, Accessories, Accessories.
Tagged as Nirvana wind vane, RC Laser wind vane, top of mast wind vane, Wind vane.

Very light and sensitive vane, attaches to sail (RC Laser) or Masthead (Nirvana and any other boat).

This masthead vane is painted with florescent yellow on one side and day glow orange on the other to read it better from shore. It is very light weight and has a slick balancing pin in the nose. It is easily installed to the top of the A sail for the RC laser, or directly into the masthead fitting for the Nirvana. Primarily used for light wind racing conditions.

Recommended for Racing.

Boat Stand for the Nirvana

$19.00

To display your Nirvana

Custom-made wooden scissor stand with keel support.

2 left as of July 9, 2013.

Wind Vane

$16.00 $14.00

Very light and sensitive wind vane for the top of the mast.

SKU: WIND
Posted in Miscellaneous, Nirvana, Accessories, RC Laser, Accessories, Explorer, Accessories, Dragon Force, Accessories, Accessories.
Tagged as Nirvana wind vane, RC Laser wind vane, top of mast wind vane, Wind vane.

Very light and sensitive vane, attaches to sail (RC Laser) or Masthead (Nirvana and any other boat).

This masthead vane is painted with florescent yellow on one side and day glow orange on the other to read it better from shore. It is very light weight and has a slick balancing pin in the nose. It is easily installed to the top of the A sail for the RC laser, or directly into the masthead fitting for the Nirvana. Primarily used for light wind racing conditions.

Recommended for Racing.

Sail Numbers for Nirvana Sails

$8.00

Class approved sail numbers for the Nirvana.

 

SKU: NNUM
Posted in Nirvana, Sail/Rigging, Accessories.
Tagged as decal, RC Laser sail numbers, sail numbers decals.

As directed by the Nirvana Racing Rules, the sail number specs are:

  • Height: 3″ tall
  • Font: Arial Rounded MT Bold
  • Color: Black

Each sail number is one piece – i.e. if your sail number is 24, one sticker has 24 on it rather than one sticker with a 2 and one sticker with an 4.

Sail numbers are sold by the pair as each jib sail needs two (to be seen from both sides of the sail).

If you are buying a new boat, each boat receives a hull number of which the last two numbers are your sail numbers. We will provide the 2 digit sail number to the sign maker for your sail numbers.

If you already have a boat, please signify what sail numbers we need to print for you. Sail numbers are 2 digit.

NOTE: Shipping is included in the price for decals.

CD for Race Countdown

$16.00

Two CD set, one 1 minute, One Staggered Start

SKU: START
Posted in Accessories, RC Laser, Accessories, Accessories.
Tagged as race start countdown, race start signal, staggered start CD, Start CD.

Two CD set, one 1 minute, One Staggered Start

Now a set of two CDs (1 minute & staggered start) – Professionally produced – cannon start signal with auto stop.

Our very popular Start Sequence CD has been improved in 2011 with a second CD for handicapping skippers via use of a staggered start system popularly called RYGG*. Both CDs run at the touch of the “Play” button and automatically stop after the race start. They are immediately ready to restart by the press of the “Play” button.

Both professionally recorded CDs feature a very accurate “click” track, and verbal announcement every ten seconds plus a count down of the final 10 seconds. The start signal is a terrific recording of a cannon fire.

RYGG – stands for Red, Yellow, Green, Go. After the 1 minute countdown the announcer says “Red Start, Yellow Start next” and another 10 seconds passes, before a similar statement begins the Green start sequence and then the final start. This allows clubs to use this very easy to use handicapping system to give novice sailors a head start. Each club determines how a skipper qualifies to move up. Our personal club runs races twice a week and we recalculate positions (Red, Yellow, Green) after each day. Our system is available upon request.

The handicap system is run all the time during club races, allowing any new skipper to jump in at any time and be treated fairly by the system. Enjoy this reliable club racing development handicap system, and the standard upper level regatta 1 minute start countdown.

Tiller with Set Screw

$5.00

Fits over the top of the Nirvana rudder to hold it in place and to allow the servo to connect with the rudder.

SKU: NTILLER
Posted in Hull, Nirvana.
Tagged as nirvana tiller, Nirvana tiller with set screw.

Keel with Ballast

$45.00

Keel with ballast for the Nirvana.

SKU: NKEEL
Posted in Nirvana, Hull, Nirvana Showroom.
Tagged as keel with ballast, Nirvana keel.

Let us know your choice in the comment section of the checkout. If we have that color, we will send it. If not, we will send what we have.

It is class legal to paint your hull, rudder and keel.

Includes wing latch, keel fin, ballast and ballast cover assembled.

Hull

$99.00

The Nirvana hull without electronics installed. Fittings are included.

SKU: NHULL
Posted in Nirvana, Hull.
Tagged as Nirvana hull.
Nirvana blue hull with deck decals and fittings but no electronics installed.

Hatch Cover – Hard

$12.00

The hatch cover that helps to make the Nirvana look so realistic.

SKU: NHC
Posted in Hull, Nirvana.
Tagged as hard hatch cover, nirvana hatch cover.

This is the hard cover that fits over the pliable hatch cover.

As of July 9, 2013, we have 2 with decals and 22 without decals.

Sail Set

$25.00

Main and Jib sails

SKU: NSAIL
Posted in Nirvana, Nirvana Showroom, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as jib sail, main sail, Nirvana main and jib sails, Nirvana sail set, sails.

The only class legal main and jib sails for the Nirvana.

Only 14 left as of July 9, 2013.

Sail Numbers for Nirvana Sails

$8.00

Class approved sail numbers for the Nirvana.

SKU: NNUM
Posted in Nirvana, Sail/Rigging, Accessories.
Tagged as decal, RC Laser sail numbers, sail numbers decals.

As directed by the Nirvana Racing Rules, the sail number specs are:

  • Height: 3″ tall
  • Font: Arial Rounded MT Bold
  • Color: Black

Each sail number is one piece – i.e. if your sail number is 24, one sticker has 24 on it rather than one sticker with a 2 and one sticker with an 4.

Sail numbers are sold by the pair as each jib sail needs two (to be seen from both sides of the sail).

If you are buying a new boat, each boat receives a hull number of which the last two numbers are your sail numbers. We will provide the 2 digit sail number to the sign maker for your sail numbers.

If you already have a boat, please signify what sail numbers we need to print for you. Sail numbers are 2 digit.

NOTE: Shipping is included in the price for decals.

O Ring, Set of 2

$2.00

O-rings help to hold the sheet hook in chosen hole on booms.

SKU: NORING
Posted in Nirvana, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as Nirvana booms, Nirvana O rings, O ring set, O-ring.
For the booms to hold the sheets in place.

Boom Vang “L” Fitting

$4.00

Boom Vang Mast Pivot (“L” fitting) – At the bottom of the boom vang tackle is a fitting that pivots in the mast tang to which is tied the boom vang line. Does not come with wire keeper.

SKU: NVANGL
Posted in Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as Nirvana Boom Vang L Fitting.

Boom Slider, Round

$2.00

Sliders – Black plastic fittings that fit the Nirvana booms. There are two kinds, “oval” and “round”. The “oval” slider is used to pass the hook completely through. The “round” slider is where the hook hooks into.

SKU: NSLIDERR
Posted in Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as Round boom slider for Nirvana.

Boom Slider, Oval

$2.00

Sliders – Black plastic fittings that fit the Nirvana booms. There are two kinds, “oval” and “round”. The “oval” slider is used to pass the hook completely through. The “round” slider is where the hook hooks into.

SKU: NSLIDERO
Posted in Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as oval shaped boom slider for nirvana.

Battery Holder

$6.00

Perfect generic battery holder. It comes with our RC Laser and fits in the Nirvana and other RC sailboats.

SKU: HOLDER
Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Nirvana, RC Laser.
Tagged as accessories, Battery Holder, electronics, holds batteries on board, nirvana, rc laser, sailing.
Holds 4 AA cells.

Servo, Steering – 311

$11.00

Only class legal steering servo for the RC Laser or upgrade for the Nirvana (class legal for Nirvana as well).

SKU: 311
Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Nirvana, RC Laser.
Tagged as 311, RC Laser servo, RC Laser steering servo.

The Hitec HS-311 Servo.

Steering Servo for the RC Laser and can also be used as an upgrade for the Nirvana Steering Servo.

Servo, Sail – Hitec 645

$39.00

Upgrade for the sail servo on the Nirvana – class legal.

SKU: N645
Posted in Electronics, Nirvana.
Tagged as 645 servo, Nirvana sail servo, sail servo.

Charger

$17.00

NX83 Delta Peak Charger – for your rechargeable RC needs

*Please note, this will not work with the transmitter that comes with the 2014 Nirvana as there is no place to plug it in. We apologize.

SKU: CHARGER
Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Accessories.
Tagged as NX83, rechargeable batteries, Transmitter, trickle charger, spektrum, JST.

NX83 Delta Peak Charger. This is a trickle charger that brings TX and RX cells up to full strength over night, and then continues to hold all batteries at peak strength without fear of overcharging.

For the RC Laser:
One charger lead plugs into either the 5-pack RC Laser rechargeable battery or the battery holder for the receiver. The other lead plugs into the transmitter. Therefore, no batteries need to be handled at all. Lights on the charger indicate that proper connection is made.

For the Nirvana (not 2014 version*), Seawind and most other RC sailboats:
One charger lead plugs into the battery holder for the receiver. The other lead plugs into the transmitter. Therefore, no batteries need to be handled at all. Lights on the charger indicate that proper connection is made.

*We are sorry to say that the 2014 Nirvana transmitter does NOT have a place to plug the charger into.

The lead that plugs into the transmitters has an option for either positive (most transmitters) or negative (Spektrum transmitters). Check to see if your transmitter has a place to plug it in and you are all set!

Check out our recharge kits – great way to get batteries and charger at a special price.
RC Laser 8 (includes 5 pack for boat plus 8 AA for TX)
RC Laser 4 (includes 5 pack for boat plus 4 AA for TX)
Nirvana 8 (includes 8 AA for boat plus 8 AA for TX) – also for Seawind, Fairwind and other RC sailboats
Nirvana 4* (includes 4 AA for boat plus 8 AA for TX) – also for Seawind, Fairwind and other RC sailboats
*2014 Nirvana does NOT have a place to plug the charger into – we apologize.

SailRC is not a warranty service station for any electronics company. We are pretty good at troubleshooting most of our electronics but even we have a hard time keeping up with new technology. We will troubleshoot your issue on the phone and if we cannot resolve your issue, we will send you directly to a manufacturer’s service rep to get a resolution (either repair or replacement). We will NOT be sending you overseas to any manufacturer – all service centers we use are in the US!

Boat Stand – RC Laser

$39.00

Display your RC Laser on this stand

SKU: LSTAND
Posted in Accessories, RC Laser.
Tagged as aluminum, boat stand, display, Made especially for RC Laser.

Aluminum and fabric scissor stand.

This stand is designed for displaying your RC Laser indoors. When folded, it fits inside the RC Laser bag for transport.

Note: The RC Laser should never be left in the boat stand outside as the wind may tip the stand over allowing the boat to land on the rudder. This will result in damaging the teeth on the steering servo.

Very few in stock.

Wind Vane

$16.00 $14.00

Very light and sensitive wind vane for the top of the mast.

SKU: WIND
Posted in Miscellaneous, Nirvana, Accessories, RC Laser, Accessories, Explorer, Accessories, Dragon Force, Accessories, Accessories.
Tagged as Nirvana wind vane, RC Laser wind vane, top of mast wind vane, Wind vane.

Very light and sensitive vane, attaches to sail (RC Laser) or Masthead (Nirvana and any other boat).

This masthead vane is painted with florescent yellow on one side and day glow orange on the other to read it better from shore. It is very light weight and has a slick balancing pin in the nose. It is easily installed to the top of the A sail for the RC laser, or directly into the masthead fitting for the Nirvana. Primarily used for light wind racing conditions.

Recommended for Racing.

Speed Clips

$5.00 $3.00

Allows you to drop the mast in, slide the sail over it and clip it in – ready to sail!

SKU: LSPEED
Posted in RC Laser, Accessories, Sail/Rigging, RC Laser Showroom.
Tagged as RC Laser rigging, Speed clips, speed rigging.

Speed clips are a great timesaver each time you rig your boat to sail. Put one on each sail to connect to the sheet and one on the main sheet to connect to the boom.

Package of 5.

Sail Cover

$85.00

A nice bag to hold all of your RC Laser rigged sails.

SKU: LSAILCVR
Posted in RC Laser, Accessories, Sail/Rigging.
Bag to hold all of your rigged sails for the RC Laser.
  1. The four RC Laser sails rigged on respective masts and booms, with sail cover folded up in front. Note there are no hard ribs in the sail cover.
  2. Inside the sail cover are 3 full sized sail separator panels, shown here in gold.
  3. Insert sails into the proper compartment, with the strap side up on the cover, and the mast down. Recommend marking the bottom of each gooseneck fitting with the letter of the sail: A, B, C, D.
  4. Zip the foot end of the cover closed which secures each rig from sliding out the end of the cover.
  5. Shoulder strap makes it easy to carry your sails hands-free. Also, the cover with the sails can be hung on a single hook on any wall. At the sailing site, simply unzip the cover, and lay flat on the ground where sails can be changed easily.

CD for Race Countdown

$16.00

Two CD set, one 1 minute, One Staggered Start

SKU: START
Posted in Accessories, RC Laser, Accessories, Accessories.
Tagged as race start countdown, race start signal, staggered start CD, Start CD.

Two CD set, one 1 minute, One Staggered Start

Now a set of two CDs (1 minute & staggered start) – Professionally produced – cannon start signal with auto stop.

Our very popular Start Sequence CD has been improved in 2011 with a second CD for handicapping skippers via use of a staggered start system popularly called RYGG*. Both CDs run at the touch of the “Play” button and automatically stop after the race start. They are immediately ready to restart by the press of the “Play” button.

Both professionally recorded CDs feature a very accurate “click” track, and verbal announcement every ten seconds plus a count down of the final 10 seconds. The start signal is a terrific recording of a cannon fire.

RYGG – stands for Red, Yellow, Green, Go. After the 1 minute countdown the announcer says “Red Start, Yellow Start next” and another 10 seconds passes, before a similar statement begins the Green start sequence and then the final start. This allows clubs to use this very easy to use handicapping system to give novice sailors a head start. Each club determines how a skipper qualifies to move up. Our personal club runs races twice a week and we recalculate positions (Red, Yellow, Green) after each day. Our system is available upon request.

The handicap system is run all the time during club races, allowing any new skipper to jump in at any time and be treated fairly by the system. Enjoy this reliable club racing development handicap system, and the standard upper level regatta 1 minute start countdown.

Tiller with Bushing

$7.00

Don’t lose the bushing!

SKU: LTILLER
Posted in Hull, RC Laser.
Tagged as RC Laser tiller, RC Laser tiller with bushing, tiller.

Speed Clips

$5.00 $3.00

Allows you to drop the mast in, slide the sail over it and clip it in – ready to sail!

SKU: LSPEED
Posted in RC Laser, Accessories, Sail/Rigging, RC Laser Showroom.
Tagged as RC Laser rigging, Speed clips, speed rigging.

Speed clips are a great timesaver each time you rig your boat to sail. Put one on each sail to connect to the sheet and one on the main sheet to connect to the boom.

Package of 5.

Sail Cover

$85.00

A nice bag to hold all of your RC Laser rigged sails.

SKU: LSAILCVR
Posted in RC Laser, Accessories, Sail/Rigging.
Bag to hold all of your rigged sails for the RC Laser.
  1. The four RC Laser sails rigged on respective masts and booms, with sail cover folded up in front. Note there are no hard ribs in the sail cover.
  2. Inside the sail cover are 3 full sized sail separator panels, shown here in gold.
  3. Insert sails into the proper compartment, with the strap side up on the cover, and the mast down. Recommend marking the bottom of each gooseneck fitting with the letter of the sail: A, B, C, D.
  4. Zip the foot end of the cover closed which secures each rig from sliding out the end of the cover.
  5. Shoulder strap makes it easy to carry your sails hands-free. Also, the cover with the sails can be hung on a single hook on any wall. At the sailing site, simply unzip the cover, and lay flat on the ground where sails can be changed easily.

Sail – C Sail

$59.00 $38.00

Best for winds 18 – 28 mph.

Sail Number

Pair of Sail Numbers (one pair per sail)

SKU: LCSAIL
Posted in RC Laser, Sail/Rigging.

Sail for racing in winds over 18 mph.

The C sail (600 sq in) fits on the standard mast and is used for winds 18-28 mph. It uses the standard mast and boom even though you may want to consider getting a shorter boom (17″ is the class minimum) to use this sail in heavier winds.

Recommended for racing.

Sail – B Sail

$59.00

The standard sail for the RC Laser. All come with this sail – many need only this one sail!

SKU: LBSAIL
Posted in RC Laser, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as RC Laser B sail, RC Laser standard sail.

This sail is good for winds through 18 mph.

The RC Laser comes standard with the B sail. This sail has 710 sq in of sail area.

Sail – A Sail

$69.00

This is the only sail that needs its own mast since it is so tall.

SKU: LASAIL
Posted in RC Laser, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as A sail, low wind sail, RC Laser A Sail.

This is the sail only, no mast nor boom. This is the only sail that will NOT fit on the standard B mast.

The A sail is 949 sq in and is used to achieve full hull speed for the boat when winds speeds are below 9 mph.

Rig – A Rig

$105.00

Must have the A Mast to sail with the A Sail.

SKU: LARIG
Posted in RC Laser, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as A Mast, A Rig, LARIG, RC Laser A Sail.

Sail and mast for racing in winds under 9 mph.

The A rig includes the A sail (949 sq in) and a complete new mast (14″ taller than the standard mast). This rig is used when winds are below 9 mph to achieve full hull speed for the boat. Use the standard boom.

Recommended for racing.

Mast – B Mast

$38.00

Fits B, C and D sails.

SKU: LBMAST
Posted in RC Laser, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as B Mast, Mast B, RC Laser standard mast.

Standard mast that comes with every new RC Laser. Fits B, C and D sails.

Active RC Laser racers have three total – one fully rigged for B sail, one fully rigged for C sail and another fully rigged for D sail. Ensures quick changes for strategy!

Mast – A Mast

$48.00

Only mast that fits the height of the A Sail

SKU: LAMAST
Posted in RC Laser, Sail/Rigging.
Tagged as A Mast, Mast A, Mast for A Sail, RC Laser A Mast.

For A Sail only. Used with regular boom.

Also available as part of the A Rig (better value than buying A Mast and A Sail separately).

 

Country Designator Decal for RC Laser Sails

$8.00

Class approved country designator decals as of 2011 RC Laser International Racing Rules.

SKU: LCDDECAL
Posted in RC Laser, Sail/Rigging, Decals.
Tagged as decal, RC Laser sail numbers, RC Laser country designator sail decal.

As directed by the RC Laser Class International Racing Rules – June 2011, the country designator decal specs are:

  • Height: 2.5″ tall
  • Font: Arial Rounded MT Bold
  • Color: Black

Each decal is one piece – i.e. if your country is USA, one sticker has USA on it rather than one sticker with a U, another with an S and the third with an A.

Sail numbers are sold by the pair as each sail needs two (to be seen from both sides of the sail). Order one pair for each sail you have.

Shipping is included in decal pricing.

Want to see directions for placement of the sail decals? Click here and scroll to the last couple of pages.

Sail – B Sail, Blemished

$25.00

For the RC Laser. Sail in perfect condition except for discoloration. Appears slightly yellow in areas.

SKU: LBSAILB
Posted in Sea Flea Market.
Tagged as RC Laser Blemished B Sail, sailboat, sailing.

Battery Holder

$6.00

Perfect generic battery holder. It comes with our RC Laser and fits in the Nirvana and other RC sailboats.

SKU: HOLDER
Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Nirvana, RC Laser.
Tagged as accessories, Battery Holder, electronics, holds batteries on board, nirvana, rc laser, sailing.
Holds 4 AA cells.

Servo, Steering – 311

$11.00

Only class legal steering servo for the RC Laser or upgrade for the Nirvana (class legal for Nirvana as well).

SKU: 311
Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Nirvana, RC Laser.
Tagged as 311, RC Laser servo, RC Laser steering servo.

The Hitec HS-311 Servo.

Steering Servo for the RC Laser and can also be used as an upgrade for the Nirvana Steering Servo.

Servo, Sail – 785

$49.00

Only servo authorized by the RC Laser class rule.

SKU: L785
Posted in Electronics, RC Laser.
Tagged as 785, RC Laser servo, sail servo.
This servo is the only servo authorized by the RC Laser Class rule. Also the boat is molded to accept only this servo. It is strong for sailing in the heaviest of winds and has an excellent reputation for durability.

Charger

$17.00

NX83 Delta Peak Charger – for your rechargeable RC needs

*Please note, this will not work with the transmitter that comes with the 2014 Nirvana as there is no place to plug it in. We apologize.

SKU: CHARGER
Posted in Electronics, Electronics, Accessories.
Tagged as NX83, rechargeable batteries, Transmitter, trickle charger, spektrum, JST.

NX83 Delta Peak Charger. This is a trickle charger that brings TX and RX cells up to full strength over night, and then continues to hold all batteries at peak strength without fear of overcharging.

For the RC Laser:
One charger lead plugs into either the 5-pack RC Laser rechargeable battery or the battery holder for the receiver. The other lead plugs into the transmitter. Therefore, no batteries need to be handled at all. Lights on the charger indicate that proper connection is made.

For the Nirvana (not 2014 version*), Seawind and most other RC sailboats:
One charger lead plugs into the battery holder for the receiver. The other lead plugs into the transmitter. Therefore, no batteries need to be handled at all. Lights on the charger indicate that proper connection is made.

*We are sorry to say that the 2014 Nirvana transmitter does NOT have a place to plug the charger into.

The lead that plugs into the transmitters has an option for either positive (most transmitters) or negative (Spektrum transmitters). Check to see if your transmitter has a place to plug it in and you are all set!

Check out our recharge kits – great way to get batteries and charger at a special price.
RC Laser 8 (includes 5 pack for boat plus 8 AA for TX)
RC Laser 4 (includes 5 pack for boat plus 4 AA for TX)
Nirvana 8 (includes 8 AA for boat plus 8 AA for TX) – also for Seawind, Fairwind and other RC sailboats
Nirvana 4* (includes 4 AA for boat plus 8 AA for TX) – also for Seawind, Fairwind and other RC sailboats
*2014 Nirvana does NOT have a place to plug the charger into – we apologize.

SailRC is not a warranty service station for any electronics company. We are pretty good at troubleshooting most of our electronics but even we have a hard time keeping up with new technology. We will troubleshoot your issue on the phone and if we cannot resolve your issue, we will send you directly to a manufacturer’s service rep to get a resolution (either repair or replacement). We will NOT be sending you overseas to any manufacturer – all service centers we use are in the US!